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Brake Stripdown and Rebuild UPDATED WITH PICTURES

Doogledog
Moderator
Posts: 330
Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:07 pm
Location: Forest of Dean

Brake Stripdown and Rebuild UPDATED WITH PICTURES

Postby Doogledog » Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:07 pm

By Doogledog and mazda-mender
WARNING - this is long but if you follow it step-by-step you'll have sorted your brakes :) It's easier than it looks!!

Brake service Strip down and Rebuild....

Once this procedure has been done, there will be no need to remove so much at the next service, just a wipe clean re-grease, re-fit, re-set handbrake travel and bleed off which will be 1/4 of the time, and this should save you ÂŁ100's on service costs and re-placing calipers over your ownership.

The guide as been built with the mind set for those owners that want to tackle the job themselves and do it right on their drive ways or garages with the basics of tools to carry out the job correct and safe.

*******WARNINGS*********

Safety Precautions
ALWAYS work on your roadster on flat ground and use axle stands to support the roadster - NEVER work on a car supported by just a jack

If only raising one end of your car ensure the other wheels are appropriately chocked
Do not breathe in or blow brake dust


PLEASE BE AWARE OF THE WARNINGS IN RED FONT


*****Tools and other items required*****....


Copper grease
Red rubber grease
10mm, 14mm, 17mm ring spanners
10mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets and appropriate ratchet
Breaker bar
4mm allen key
Long-nosed pliers
Old screwdriver or similar
Flat file and / or wire brush
Piston wind back tool or G clamp
Axle stands
Wheel chocks
Jack
Rags
Tray or mat
Brake cleaner or similar
Fresh brake fluid if required
Second person’s foot to help with bleeding up, a lovely dry hot day, fresh brews and dead pig butties.


FRONT BRAKES

Chock the rear wheels, Loosen wheel nuts and jack up the front of Mx/roadster, and support the Mx/roadster on axle stands, your OE jack and brace are good enough for the job (note it is easier if you raise the whole front end rather than just one side to use the subframe "IF" you have a good trolley jack)

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Remove road wheel and put on the floor under the middle of the sill under the mx/roadster 

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Pop the bonnet , rest it on the prop, and unscrew the filler bottle lid and just rest it on top...



Depending on which wheel you are working on, turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction i.e. if working on right wheel, turn wheel to the left. This allows more access to the rear of the caliper

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Using the breaker bar with a 14 mm Mk 1 1.6/17mm Mk 1 1.8 to Mk 2.5 (not the so called large sports calipers), crack the caliper lower slider bolt, remove the bolt and put to one side safe until later.....

Lever the caliper up and get ready to remove the anti rattle/lift off springs/release springs from the calipers as you do this ....note:- if the springs are fitted and the pads are not stuck ,when you remove the caliper the springs may fly off, taking the pads with them, which needs to be avoided if the pads are to be re-used, so be ready and watch where those springs go...

If the pads are stuck fast than remove them....

With the caliper in the raised position, slide the caliper free from the upper slider bolt. Taking care not to stretch the flexible brake line, put the caliper on the lower wishbone, out of the way for now safe....

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Using the breaker bar and 14mm/ socket, crack the two bolts securing the brake carrier. Remove and put to one side with the carrier....

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Remove disc if desired (a good idea if you've not looked before, to check condition),apply a light coating of copper slip to the hub and Refit disc (or a new one at this point) ......

***TOP TIP ****
Use two of your wheel/rim nuts to keep the disc solid to stop it wobbling while you work on them and re build, these only need to be hand tight, if they do not reach then pack out with a larger nut or washers...


The carrier should have 4 metal slider clips on which the pads slide - these need to be removed, making a note of the position and orientation of each one(the spring support to the front)

Having removed the metal clips, and put them safe...

Now use the file to lightly file/clean the recesses on the carrier top and bottom where the slider clips fit(note it is easiest to file across both at the same time). Alternatively use a wire brush. This will remove the surface rust, which will have built up over time which forces the slider clips to close up resulting in the gripping the pads that makes them stick, ...

Focussing on the slider pin holes where the caliper upper mounting bolt goes, use an old screwdriver to clean out any old grease, being careful not to pierce the rubber (note it is easiest to wrap an old rag around the end before beginning). Get out as much of the old grease as possible. Do the same with the hole for the lower slider pin .....

Apply red rubber grease to both of the upper and lower slider pin holes.

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Clean each slider clip to remove as much of the surface rust as possible. This is best done with an old flat-headed screwdriver, or a wire brush . This allows the pads to slide more freely in the carrier.

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Apply a blob of copper slip to the carrier where you have filed clean for the slider clips, now Spread the slider clips out and Return each slider clip to the carrier, taking care to use copper grease on the back of each to minimize rust build up on the carrier and therefore ensure the pad has as much room to slide as possible.

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Return the carrier to the car, using the same bolts as removed. Ensure you put copper grease on each bolt to prevent them seizing up. Tighten with a 14mm ratchet and use breaker bar / torque wrench to tighten.Use copper grease on the head of the nuts to protect against weathering.

No matter whether you are reusing the pads or fitting new ones, remove the shims( if fitted) clean down the pads and shims(if being re-used) take each pad and file the section that fits into the slider clips (the bits that stick up at each end). This is to remove rust build up / paint and will ensure the pads slide freely in the carrier.

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Using copper grease on the filed areas which acts as a lube and also to prevent rust build up leading to a lack of movement, also apply some to the back of the pad, re-add the shims and apply another thin coating where contact is being made by the caliper, this will help to prevent none squeaking smooth brakes, replace the pads on the carrier.....

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Now get the caliper thats been resting nice and safe on the wishbone, Check the condition of the top slider pin (as attached to the caliper). Wipe with a rag. If rust build up is evident, lightly file / emery paper / wire wool to remove.

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****PLEASE NOTE*******

Before pushing the piston back into the caliper you need to unscrew the cap on the brake fluid filler bottle, taking a visual note of the level, because as you push the piston pot back the fluid will rise back up, if it is getting to high then you Will need to remove some, now please be careful as it is not kind to paint, DO NOT re use what you have removed...

If fitting new pads you will need to push back the piston in the caliper. This is best done using a wind back tool or a G clamp, that can be purchased from ebay (other sources available).

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Slide caliper back onto carrier and into position.

Check release springs/ anti rattle /lift off springs condition and slightly pull wider to offer more resistance.

Carefully pivoting up the carrier, return the springs onto the pads. To prevent the pads falling free of the carriers, you need to do this with the caliper slightly holding the tops of the pads( see vid below)....


With springs in place, return the caliper to its usual position.

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Video link>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pR3teP2DLgU

Check the condition of the caliper lower slider bolt. Wipe clean and check for rust build up. If evident, lightly file / emery paper / wire wool to remove, taking care not to flatten.

Smear copper grease around the thread of the bolt and return to the caliper.

Tighten using a ratchet and tighten with breaker bar / torque wrench, taking care not to over tighten.

Crack the bleed nipple with a small ratchet ,standard size is 8mm but aftermarket sizes may be different ,we have had 7mm,8mm(being OE)9mm and even a 10mm?.

Bleed brakes - best done with two people but single-person bleed kits are available

IMPORTANT WARNING
********Foot note:-*******
If you you are bleeding brakes or are changing a caliper on a Mx/roadster that is fitted with the ABS system, you most take care not to get a air lock into the ABS pump, as this will turn into a nightmare to remove the air from it.


Take the opportunity to check general condition of suspension parts, particularly the bushes etc. You may like to spray all rubbers and steering rack gaiter ,bushes with a good silicone spray ...

Job done!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Former owne of Eunos Roadster VR-Ltd comb B - lots of mods
Doogledog
Moderator
Posts: 330
Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:07 pm
Location: Forest of Dean

Re: Brake Stripdown and Rebuild UPDATED WITH PICTURES

Postby Doogledog » Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:12 pm

REAR BRAKES

Chock the front wheels ,loosen the rear wheel nuts and jack up rear of car, then support the car on axle stands (note:- it is easier if you raise the whole rear end rather than just one side)

Remove road wheel and put on the floor under the middle of the sill under the mx/roadster as an extra safety precaution

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Inside the car, remove the plastic cover from the handbrake and release the handbrake. This will reveal the hex shaft through which you can see the handbrake cable. Use a large flat-headed screwdriver or a 10 mm socket, extesion and ratchet to turn this anticlockwise to slacken. Take care not to undo too much or else the cable will drop out of the bottom.

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Back in the wheel arch... With 14mm ring spanner, remove the plug bolt from the rear of the caliper you should be able to see two bolts at the back - one connects the hand brake arm to the caliper (bottom) , the other is the plug bolt( top).

Now where the plug as been removed from, Using the 4mm allen key turn the handbrake adjuster on the back of the caliper anticlockwise until it stops. This should pull the piston back in the caliper. You should not use a caliper wind-back tool or G clamp "EVER" for this, it will damage the inner gearing and you will need to change the caliper....

Remove the anti rattle/lift off/ release springs from the brake pads, they are on the out side ( not the inside as we keep finding fitted? form reading the wrong guides or guessing?) and there should be one top and bottom , if not , get some ordered....

You next need to undo the caliper lower slider pin. This is located behind a black plastic cover, which will need to be removed. This can sometimes prove tricky but is easy enough if you use the long-nosed pliers or the like on it. Place to one side safe....

Using a 10mm ring spanner, undo the slider pin (this may need a whack with a small hammer). You may be able to get a ratchet in, but the method above is easiest!! Remove pin and place to one side.

Pivot the caliper up on the top slider pin and wiggle off and free . Note:- this may feel tricky due to the handbrake cable but it will go. Rest on the lower wishbone out of the way, taking care not to stretch the flexible brake hose....

Using a small breaker bar and a 14mm socket first to crack them or a 14mm ring spanner and a small hammer to crack them, remove both 14mm bolts and put with the slider clip and bits safe for later and the carrier... 

Remove the slide clips from the carrier, noting their orientation. Place to one side also....


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Remove brake disc if desired (good idea to check condition if you've not looked before), apply a light coating of copper slip to the hub face and Refit brake disc or fit new one.

***TOP TIP ****
Use two of you wheel/rim nuts to hand tighten down the disc solid to stop it wobbling while you work on them and re build, if they do not reach then pack out with a larger nut or washers...



Using the file, file down the surface rust from the carrier where the slide clips are located. Alternatively use a wire brush. This will remove the surface rust causing the sliders clips to act as a grip to hold the pads to firm to work correct.....

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***** we recommend that the cleaning (prep) to the slider clips,carrier and pads are all to be seen as one job ,to aid rebuilding the jigsaw far easier *****

Return the carrier to the car, ensuring that the 14mm bolts are lubed in copper grease to prevent them seizing. Tighten a ratchet? breaker bar or with ring spanner and a small hammer (or torque wrench if you can get it in there then all the better).

***Please note..... any grease or oil's will need to be removed from the surface of the brake disks or the face of the pads if any gets on them with brake cleaner or similar***

Clean each slider clip with either a small wire brush or an old flat-headed screwdriver. This will remove any surface rust and enable the pads to slide more freely.

Using copper grease on the back of each clip, refit them to the carrier. The grease will act as a glue/lube and barrier and hold the clips in place whilst you prepare the pads.

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Taking each pads in turn, use a file Castle sections/recess that slot onto the slider clips of any paint or surface rust to clean the recess where they fit on the carrier,( they need to be loose but not slack on the carrier for reference) and a wire brush if old pads being re-fitted then a all around tidy/clean up, remove the shim and clean both the back of the pad and shim, add copper slip to the castle section on the pad and a light coating on to the back , add shim, and a light coating on the shims ready to be re-fiited.


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Working on the caliper, start by looking at the handbrake arm. Check that it moves freely on its pivot under hand pressure. If it does not move freely the first step is to remove the coiled spring from the handbrake arm ( we recommend that you do this regardless if seized or not). This is done using the long-nosed pliers or flat screw driver. Once it is removed check for movement. If it is reluctant to do so a few taps with a hammer may release it. This, in combination with penetrating fluid (Plus gas etc.) may free up the arm. If it is stuck solid, it's new caliper time.

Assuming the arm can move or you have it freed up again,lever up the arms hinge pin( it will only raise around 1/4 of an inch so don't go all gorilla on it) apply copper grease to prevent seizing and push it back down in place, this will act as a lube and protection, Refit the coiled spring. Use more copper grease to protect around the arm against the caliper.....


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Using an old screwdriver wrapped on a rag, clean the upper slider pin and lower slider pin holes on the caliper where the slider pins are located. Remove as much old grease and grime as possible.

Using your little finger, put a healthy blob of red rubber grease into the upper and lower slider pin holes. Take care not to put too much in as doing so will make refitting the caliper difficult as it will cause an air lock ...

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Smear the piston centre with copper grease and the rubber seal with red rubber grease to prevent it drying out and subsequently splitting. Return the caliper to the lower wishbone nice and safe.

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Slide the caliper onto the top slider pin and pivot down into position, it may need a wiggle wiggle etc to exspell any air lock....

Check the condition of the bottom slider pin. Wipe clean. If evidence of surface rust is found, lightly file / emery paper / wire wool to remove - taking care not to flatten and making it as smooth as you can....

Refit the bottom slider pin and tighten with 10mm ring spanner or 1/4 drive ratchet with a 10mm socket and with torque setting "tight", re fit the black plastic cap with a blob of red rudder grease in it to stop corrosion .....



With the 4mm allen key, adjust the handbrake. Turn clockwise until it stops. Now turn anticlockwise until pad just catch the disc (usually 1/4 to 1/2 a turn but every car is different dependent on the wear and tear/age of the calipers,cables etc, but you MUST wind off evenly on both sides,IE:- if you have wind off 1/2 a turn on one side then the other side NEEDS to be the same).
Basically :- wind in until solid, now you don't need to hang off it like a Gorilla , just down tight so the disc does not move, and wind off so it is just catching the disc on rotation, and the same on the other side,

Refit plug bolt with 14mm spanner.

Pull the release spring (M-spring)/anti rattle springs/lift of springs slightly to widen and refit.

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Bleed brakes off to get rid of old fluid and air in the calipers.....


Now into the cab and to adjust the tension on the handbrake cables Pull on handbrake, counting the number of clicks as you go. The number should be between 7 and 9.

If not, turn the hex shaft with a large flat screw driver or 1/4 drive ratchet/extension/10mm socket attached to the handbrake to tighten the slack. Keep repeating until a suitable number of clicks and feel of handbrake is appropriate.

Check wheels are locked with handbrake on and spin freely with handbrake off, and adjust until you are happy it all works as it should, replace the trim cover to the handbrake and secure back up with the phillps driver and trim screw

IMPORTANT WARNING
********Foot note:-*******
If you you are bleeding brakes or are changing a caliper on a Mx/roadster that is fitted with the ABS system, you most take care not to get a air lock into the ABS pump, as this will turn into a nightmare to remove the air from it.


Take opportunity to check condition of suspension components and spray all rubbers with silicone lubricant.

Refit wheel.

Repeat on other side.

Do not forget to pump your brake pedal to engage the pads( if not bleeding off), bleed off if needed not forgetting to top up the filler bottle if needed with the correct brake fluid and screw the cap down tight again, a bleeding off video will be added, and a guide to fitting braided brake lines very soon plus a full walk through guide on upgrading the braking system.

Once you're happy, lower car to ground.

Tighten all wheels nuts to the correct torque...

JOB DONE! Congratulate yourself and go for a test drive with a big smile on your face 
Any questions....please feel free to ask
Former owne of Eunos Roadster VR-Ltd comb B - lots of mods

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