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Removing stubborn brake disks....

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Mazda Mender
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Removing stubborn brake disks....

Postby Mazda Mender » Thu May 12, 2016 7:32 am

Many owners are struggling to remove the brake discs from the Mx-5's or Roadsters when the surface rust between the hub and the rear face of the disc get welded with the stuff, this quick guide will show you a dead easy way to separate them with less hassle and swearing with a lump hammer...

*****please be aware that the pictures below show the caliper,pads and carrier still in place, they will need to be removed so you can get the disk off, pics are just for reference*****

Get yourself some freeing up spray, in this case we use wurth 2040 penetrating oil, spray it where the studs are so it gets onto the hub face, if there are extra holes, as with this one in the pics, spray it in them also and let it seep in and do it's stuff...

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Spray the holes with a good freeing up penetrating fluid including all the stud holes, leave it to work for 20 minutes or so, spray again if you wish, it will not hurt to add more....


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Now if you look close enough, one of the holes is threaded, spray in there to and on the thread....

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Now go into the boot and get the T bar that holds the jack in place....

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If it is dead rusty, as most will be, put the threaded end of the T bar into the thread on the disk, you might need to turn on and off a good few times as it starts to clean up the thread again, once in turn the T bar tight this will connect to the inner hub and start to push the disk free from in, if a little more grrrrrr is needed then get a ring spanner on the T end to give you more leverage, if it is really stuck fast, even with the pressure of the T bar in, leave the pressure on and just give it a nudge from the back with your favourite hammer ( I have never needed a hammer for this) just remember that the T bar is for just securing the jack, so it is not a full on breaker bar, don't over do it or it will snap and loose its thread if you go to heavy handed...




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And just wait for the lovely noise as it breaks free, on rebuild smear a light coating of copper slip on the hub, and it will then act as a barrier to stop rust build up again for that next time around and will make the job even easier.

The key to all this is the freeing up fluid doing it's stuff behind that disk, to help crack that weld of surface rust.


*** Don't forget to put the T bar back in the boot to hold the jack, otherwise you will get a great noise rattling through the cab****

As always any questions just ask, it's what we are here for :coffee:

Hope this helps
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/

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