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Fitting a Hard Top for the first time to a MK1/2/2.5 Mx5/Eunos/Miata/Roadster

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Mazda Mender
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Posts: 12135
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
Location: Pie land,North west
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Fitting a Hard Top for the first time to a MK1/2/2.5 Mx5/Eunos/Miata/Roadster

Postby Mazda Mender » Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:19 am

When fitting a Hard Top (HT) for the first time (more so on a Japanese Import Eunos/Roadster) you might find that the side striker plates are missing. Thereby making it impossible to clamp the top down fully using the side latches........
If you have them already fitted, forward past this section to the next on adjustment ...

You will need to fit the HT Mushroom or Frankenstein bolts, switch and relay (MK1 only) and in some cases the wiring pig tail lead from the heated window, more on all that later in the guide... (we are using a MK2 for this guide, extra pics will be added for the MK 1 showing the differences and an explanation)

The Mk1 HT's will fit the MK 2/2.5's and the other way around, very early MK 1 HT's do not have a HRW ( Heated Rear Window ) and were not wired to do so, and did not have a head lining sponge, but Mazda did make a add in plug and play loom, which are hard to come by now, but wiring etc for it to work if needed can be retro fitted....

Two Mushroom bolts or Frankenstein bolts...

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Two side striker plates ( LH and RH ) ..
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4 x torx bolts...
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You will also need...
1 x trim tool
1 x T40 torx turner inner
1 x medium phillips turner ourter
1 x large phillips turner outer/turner inner
1/4 drive ratchet ( Mk1)
1/4 drive extension (mk1)
1/4 drive 10mm socket (MK 1)
1 x flat and half round file
1 x utility knife
1 x bright marker or paint pen
***1 x dremel and attachments ( this will make the job far easier/quicker and neater)***
2 x side striker plates
4 x torx bolts.
2 x mushroom/Frankenstein bolts
1x L10 relay (Mk 1 only)
1 x rocker switch (MK 1 only)


Ok so drop the Soft Top (ST), clear the drainage trays and tubes while your at it...

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Pull the seats forward and recline forward.....

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(MK 2/2.5) Pull up and pop the kick plates off from the body (MK 2/2.5)....

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(MK 1)Unscrew by way of the 4 x s/steel phillips screws and lift up the s/steel kick plate or the 4 x phillips screws for the plastic trim, there is no need to lift free on the MK 1's....

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Remove the edge trim....

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( Mk 2/2.5)Now remove the trim cap, by the phillip screw on top and a phillips driven tonneau cover pop stud and pull the cap out of the way...(Mk 2/2.5)

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(Mk1) Now remove the phillips screw on top and the stud on the side with the 1/4 drive ratchet/extension and 10mm socket and remove the cap out of the way...(MK1)


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Now remove the windblocker or style bar if they have one, flip the top most hinge section up to give easier access, and then undo and remove the phillps head bolts at the top and the phillips head driven tonneau cover stud at the bottom on both sides...

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Mk1 10mm lift press stud bolts and trim button that will need removing....

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Now remove the trim buttons at each end on the rear deck carpet, this will just make it a little easier the remove the pillar trims,it can be done without removing them but it does become a bit fiddly when putting it all back together (sometimes "more is less")... if you do not have a trim tool, go and nick an old fork and remove one of the prongs in the centre = home made trim tool ;0)

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Now remove the panel trim button, lift the centre out and then remove the button....

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Now remove the the pillar panel trims rear locking trim piece...

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Now pull up the seat belt edge trim and release it from the pillar panel trim...

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Pull the carpet free from the panel trim....

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"DO NOT REMOVE THE SEAT BELT HANGER BOLT TRIM CAP on the MK 2/2.5 if possible " there is no need to and 9 x out of 10 on the MK2/2.5's the holding lugs break off, they are made of the finest cheese.... leave them be, unless you have needed to remove a style bar, Mk1 caps are commandos and can be taken on and off for ever without breaking...
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Mk 1 caps....

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Now pop the trim away from the body of the Roadster the top section needs to be pulled apart so the seat belt passes through the trims cut outs, regardless of what you do removing these and refitting is fiddly, there is a knack, which comes with time from years of practice ...You are allowed to kuss on refitting lol...

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And removed....

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Do all the same on the other side....

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Now you need to remove some of the sound deadening to reveal where the cut out is for the side strikers, in most cases it will just peel off as it is perforated on the section to be removed, but some times it is stuck fast , so if this is the case,and we are now wide open for the hairdressers car comments that is soooooooooo original..you need to get a hairdryer to heat up the glue so you can peel it away, I will add that if this is the case you will need to remove some of the sound proofing first so the heat will get to the double sided tape...

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I have drawn around them to help show where they are plus it makes it easier to see where you are cutting out...

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In this case I am using a utility knife , I am doing it this way to show that it can be done neatly with the tools most should have hanging around, I personally use a dremel tool, but this way is just as fast, but not everyone has a dremel to hand, please just be careful as we don't want loads of blood on the trim...

Slowly, slowly catch the monkey, there is no medals for speed doing this, put the trim on something soft so you don't mark it and on something solid for support, cardboard and the floor for one...

Cut out the oval....

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Then use your flat and curved file to clean and neaten up.....

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Not major but if you get the utility blade you can clean up the bur edges ...

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Once you have done both we are ready to re fit everything back up again.....

Pull the carpets back to make it easier to lock everything back in place, Get your side pillar trim, pull both parts of the seat belt webbing up and out....

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Do not forget to also lift the rectangle seat belt trim with the seat belt webbing, the outer most webbing comes around and to the front of the side trim, the inner most is feed through the trims cut outs of the rectangle cut out section, then you need to feed it all into place, you will need to spread the cut outs apart the feed it past the seat belt top hanger point as you do this there are two locating pegs on the back of the trim which need to be guided into place, once in place the metal clips (x2) will just need a gentle tap back into the body tub, click the rectangle seat belt trim back into place also...

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Once all in place , pull the carpet back into place and push the carpet trim button back in, Pop the trim cap back over and the locking piece the hold the trim together...

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Re insert the side trim hold trim buttom...

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Re add the edge cap phillips screw and tonneau stud...

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Push the body edge trim back by starting with pushing up and under the trim edge cap and then pressing it all back into place down to the floor...

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Get the kick plate and click it back into place on the sill....

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Now do the same on the other side....

Once you have everything back in place on both sides, grab the wind blocker or style bar and drop it into place again, lift the top section up as before to give easier access the add the screws and studs, do one side at a time start with the top and just locate the hole and turn in just with your fingers for now and do the same with the bottom tonneau stud, now to the same on the other side ,with it not being tight it will still give you play to align all the bolts up easier, once all in place tighten them all down with the phillips turner inner...

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Now to add the side strikers...

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Make sure you fit these the correct way around , left and right hand, you will need a torx T40 allan key etc to tighten theses into place if using the OE bolts......

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Hold the striker into the cut out we have now made where the captive nuts are in place in the body tub to bolt straight down, make sure it is straight with the pillar trim when tightening up solid, We might need to adjust again later?

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Do the same on the other side, and that's it for the inside, now to fit the Mushroom/Frankenstein bolts to the chrome deck plates...

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A large phillips turner outer is needed and copper grease....unscrew the two phillps head bolts closest to the hood...

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Once the bolts are screwed out get the Mushroom bolt/Frankenstein bolt , add copper grease to the thread and screw it back in place, the copper slip will act as a protection on the thread and help make a seal...

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Now do the same on the other side....

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All done, you can now fit the HT to the Roadster, follow the next step on adjustment...


Once fitted, just a couple of foot notes....make sure that the ST windscreen locking latches need to fit under these brackets on the HT....

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If it is a Mk 1 with a zip out rear window, put something on the deck so the window does not get scratched( you can get a window envelope made for the job) and once down and stowed in position with the HT on, whether it is a MK1/2/2.5 cover the ST so the head lining does not get bleached, because it will grind when your back to summer and you pull the rag top up to find the front half of the head lining bleached a lot lighter colour than the rest

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And fitted....

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Hope this helps, as always any questions please just ask, its what the site and we are here for.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


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Mazda Mender
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Re: Fitting a Hard Top for the first time to a MK1/2/2.5 Mx5/Eunos/Miata/Roadster

Postby Mazda Mender » Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:27 am

When first fitting a HT to a roadster for its first time it will need adjusting to fit, once this is done you will not need to do this again for your roadster until it is fitted to a different roadster, this will take you through it all...

https://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/tip_2_94.html

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Tools needed...

Medium phillips turner outer
Large phillips turner outer
1/4 drive ratchet
1/4 drive extension piece
1/4 drive 12mm socket
1 x torx T30 (MK 2.5 HT)
1 x Torx T40 (Mk 2.5 HT)
1 x tub of copper grease
1 x medium bottomed person wearing a soft shoes that you trust

So we need to undo everything, start at the back...

Undo the phillips counter sunk bolt...

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Open up to revel the locking plate to the mushroom bolt/Frankenstein bolt and the 2 x 12mm locking head bolts...


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Do the same on the other side...

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Get your 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 12mm socket....

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And undo and remove the bolts and plates on both sides.....

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Get your copper slip and lightly smear the base with some and re add the plate, smear the top of the plate lightly also, add some to the bolt threads and just re add them by only turning them in by hand, also add a little grease to the socket where the counter sunk bolt screws home, do the same to the other latch, do not tighten anything down at this point and leave them open ,,we will be coming back to these later...


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Now to the inside....release the side ltaches...

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Now release the header frame latches...

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Now undo the latch holding screws to the header , now depending on the HT fitted, early types were held in place with Phillips head bolts and the later MK 2.5 ones were held in place with T 30 torx heads, now some might be hard to move as the were fitted with a tread lock, the torx head bolts are not an issue as we will be undoing them with a 1/4 drive ratchet, if you can do the same with the phillips heads , great other than that IF they are being stubborn use a driver with a spanner section moulded on the shaft to help with more pressure....

So the phillps type...

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And the torx type....

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So........ undo all 3 x bolts on each, do not remove, we only need movment .... if the HT is moving to much to undo them , close the latch back down and undo to 2 that are exposed first and come back to the covered 3rd bolt...


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Do the Same on the other side so the latches are loose...
Now we need to undo the windscreen strickers with the T 40, same again, these only need to be loosened and not removed....

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Once everything is loose, you now need some weight on the centre of the roof to to windscreen frame, this is where you pick someone you trust thats not a whale....

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Once your "helper" is siting comfortable you can now start to tighten everything back up again....

Starting with the windscreen strikers, push outwards and tighten back up the 2 x torx head bolts on both sides .....

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Next it is the HT latches, clamp them down and tighten up the 2 x T30 torx head bolts or the 2 x phillips head bolts that are on show....

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Once you have tightened the 2 on show on each side, open the latch back up and tighten the 1 on each side that is no accessible.....

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Then close the latches back down ,and the side latches......

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At this point the "helper" on the roof that everyone as been lovingly staring at weirdly while walking past is relieved of their duties and thank them for their medium size butt...

So now we turn our attention back to the rear deck clamps....

Push the plate forward and under the mushroom bolt/Frankenstein bolt and hold it there while using the 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 12mm socket and tighten the adjuster plate bolts back up tight....

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Now do the same to the other side.....

Once all tight now hinge the top of the rear deck latch back to closed and and re add the phillips counter sunk head locking bolt back in but first apply copper slip to the thread to stop it fusing in the future on both sides.....

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And that's it , once all this is done you have fully adjusted the HT to fit your mx-5/Miata/Roadster, once you remove it again in summer ( if we get one here?) you will not need to do all this again if going on the same Roadster come winter minging time again.

M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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Re: Fitting a Hard Top for the first time to a MK1/2/2.5 Mx5/Eunos/Miata/Roadster

Postby Mazda Mender » Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:27 am

The Mk2/2.5 as everything already in place the just plug in at the parcel shelf and done, the MK 1's need bits adding to work, and depending on the year there is two types of switch that is needed, the early type rocker switch are the later push switch type, a L10 relay is needed for the boot and a boot fuse box in some cases, but it is all plug and play...

So MK 2/2.5 first ......

HRW switch is on the right hand side of the heater speed control with a light indication for when it is on...

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The rear deck HRW socket....

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And plug from the HRW...

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The HRW pig tail loom...

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Connected to the HT....

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-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And the Mk 1.... Fitting the correct switch and relay to a MK 1 for the HRW to work...

Now just to confuse the matter with the MK 1's the early type had a rocker type switch with a blue back that connects to a blue plug behind the dash as it is all plug and play....

Working on the year and market yours was sold at originally and the plug behind the dash will help in which type of switch you will need...
Early type rocker switch....

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Now the plug behind the dash blankers should be blue also to match...

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But on some early roadsters they were white (take note of the wires to the plug)....

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Then there is the later type press switch, which was fitted to the JDM 1.8 roadsters from 1993 onwards and some later UK spec Mx-5's

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And the plug behind the dash ..the plug is the same as the dimmer switch plug, so make sure you get the correct one....

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The L10 relay for the boot in the MK 1's only....

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And now where it goes and how to fit it...

Open the boot and look the to back panel.....

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It is held in place by 7 x trim buttons, lift the centre first and then pull the whole trim button out...

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Once all the trim buttons are removed, pull out and remove the back panel....

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Look down to the left hand side of the latch and you should see a black plug....

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Get your L10 relay and just plug it in and tuck it out of the way.....

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And thats that, put the panel back and trim buttons....

The boot fuse box....

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Mk 1 HRW pig tail loom....

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Plug.....

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Rear deck socket.....

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HT connection.....

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tips and options....

Mk 2/2.5 HT on a Mk 1...

Pig tail looms...

Either swap the pig tail from the MK 2/2.5 to a MK 1 type, Make a loom up or add to sockets to the rear deck....

viewtopic.php?f=114&t=6403

Rear deck Sockets.....
Another option open to owners as more are in breakers yards is to fit a MK 1 socket with the MK 2/2.5 socket so no matter what you drop on it will plug and play and work....

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Switch....

If you are stuck for the correct switch (rocker type) you can fit a rocker type front/rear fog lamp switch as it is the same switch with the same connections....

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On the later plug that takes the later press type switch ,you can solder the early plug in as the wiring is the same, so then you can use a rocker type switch which is easier to get hold of, plus like i say you can also use a front or rear fog lamp rocker type switch

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mk 1 HT on a Mk 2/2.5....

Pig tail loom....

Either swap the pig tail out from the MK 1 to the MK 2/2.5 from a HT or ST or add both sockets to the rear deck...

Rear deck sockets.....
Another option open to owners as more are in breakers yards is to fit a MK 2/2.5 socket with the MK 1 socket so no matter what you drop on it will plug and play and work....

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Once everything is in place your light indication to know it is in ,is at the top left of the instrument dial cluster....

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Now the early Mx-5/Roadster/Miata's Did not have any wiring for the HRW HT (1989-1991) and the early type of HT was never made as a HRW top also, there was a Mazda plug and play loom that you could buy but are now a very rare thing to find now and came with a illuminated switch for on and off, but it is possible to retro fit the wiring loom to a none HRW roadster.

Mazda HRW plug and play loom........

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The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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Re: Fitting a Hard Top for the first time to a MK1/2/2.5 Mx5/Eunos/Miata/Roadster

Postby Mazda Mender » Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:03 am

Hard top security.....
It is a crappy world we live in and light fingered snot heads live amongst us everyday looking for that opportunity to make a quick £ on others expense as they think it is their right to take what is not theirs..
Unfortunately HT theft does happen, and repairing the damage and replacing the HT is not cheap to cover their £5 bag of blow....but there is some options for us out there..
A good alarm with a microwave sensor is always a major option regardless and are cheap enough off the bay of e..

Or a big dog ;0)....

Hard top side latch locks work well but are now hard to get hold off, searching the selling sites is the only option for these now and there are two versions of the locking tool, one is s/steel and the other is metal, they were designed by Andrew at Autolinkuk originally

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And fitted, we have put ours on the passenger side simply because these are driven with only one person in them most of the time, but are designed to be fitted on the drivers side....

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The other is from Vlad at jass performance which is two kits, one replaces the locking latches for solid bolt down frames and the other replaces the rear deck plates in the chrome caps for a solid bolt down items, so the HT becomes a solid bolt item to the roadster, which would take light fingered snot head a good amount of time ,so he will move on else where...

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Side brackets....

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Top HT to frame brackets...

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And the rear deck bolt down brackets...

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These can be bought from Autolinmx5.... http://www.autolinkmx5.com/hard-top-parts-178-c.asp

There are other makes of bolt down solid brackets out there, but it is wise to think about security as these are easy to remove if needed and fetch £400 easy, so the light fingered amongst us who like opportunity and know their worth are taking them , its the damage they leave and then the full costs of repair and replacement they leave us with...

Hope all this helps.....As always any questions please just ask, it's what we are here for.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/

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