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MK 2/2.5 heated rear window hood pig tail onto a MK1 (wiring)

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Mazda Mender
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MK 2/2.5 heated rear window hood pig tail onto a MK1 (wiring)

Postby Mazda Mender » Tue Aug 09, 2016 7:04 am

A lot of owners with MK 1 NA's are buying up Mk 2/2.5 NB hard tops as they are being broken up for parts which is a shame, but anyway back to the guide, on buying the Hard Tops and dropping them onto the MK1's, owners are finding that the Mk2/2.5 NB heated rear window pig tail loom as a different plug to the Mk1 NA so will not plug into the rear deck MK1 NA heated rear window socket.
If you have a very early Mk 1 NA 1989 to early 1992 they were not fitted with the factory HRW loom and rear deck socket, so we will need to over come that

This is also the fact when fitting a Soft top glass Heated Rear window to a Mk 1 NA, so this walk through guide will cover that all so...

Now there are 4 different ways to resolve this..

1...Sell the Mk 2/2.5 NB hood/top and get a MK 1 version.
2...Buy a MK 1 NA Heated Rear window pig tail loom new...£60 or s/hand (if you can find one) £40.
3...Fit a MK 2/2.5 NB Heated Rear window socket to a MK 1 NA so you have both sockets ( a walk through guide on this will follow also)
4...Make up an aftermarket heated rear pig tail loom, around a fiver to do a nice safe one (This walk through guide will show you how)...

So in this walk through how to guide we will be showing you No 4 which should take all of 3/4 of a hour to knock up good safe solid loom...

Tools..

Wire cutters,
Crimper tool,
Wire strippers,
Tape Measure,
Heat source for heat shrink,
3 lengths of single cable,
Heat shrink,
5 x female spade end connectors,
Black electrical tape,
Yellow electrical tape,
Cable trunking,
And a MK 1 NA with a Glass Heated Rear Window soft top or a MK 2/2.5 NB Hard Top, and of course a MK 1 NA.

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So grab the measure and measure the 3 lengths of cable 2 x black and 1 x red..

The first black cable needs to be 6" long..

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The second black cable needs to be 31" long...

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The third is the red which needs to be cut to 35" long....

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Once cut to length we need to strip the ends of the cable to reveal the copper wire ready for crimping the connections...

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Get the two black cables/wires and at just one end of each one twist them together...

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Slide one of the female spade end connectors onto the wire....

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And grab the crimping tool to crimp the connections nice and tight, ideally insulated female spade end connections would be better.....

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And then do all the rest....

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Now because I am using none insulated connections I will be using heat shrink ( simply because they are thinner and fit into the socket better), so cut five pieces of heat shrink around 1.5" long....

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Slide them over the female connection and cable and use the heat source the shrink them down...

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Once that is done, get the black electrical tape and tape the black and red cables together by putting the black with the black smaller piece end together with the red and wrap a piece of the black electrical tape around 2.5" from the connection..

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And just carry on around...

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Until you are left with this at the other end with the last piece of holding electrical to be at around 2.5" from the black connection side...

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Now back to the plug end and loop the small black wire....

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And just tape the loop down....

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Now add your trunking cut to the correct length as per the pics, the trucking helps to protect the cables and it looks far neater...

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And then tape up the ends with the black electric tape as per the pics, do not tape up too much as we need the plug side 3 connections free and the screen end I would also add some tape here and there along the trunking...

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Now it is time to add the yellow electrical tape,not needed but a personal thing so the lead cannot be missed...

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Then, it is just a case of connecting up the the HRW, in this case a Mk 2/2.5 NA HT....

For the window, (Please note it does not matter which way around these are connected to the rear screen)....

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Now on the HRW rear deck cab socket...looking at it as an upside down triangle...the two connections at the top are the earth so the two black female spade end connections go to those either way around, the red goes to the single connection at the bottom, all as per the pics for ref...

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And that's it, make sure you unplug at the socket when removing the HT.

As always any questions ...just ask, it's what we are here for.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
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