MK 1 front side light socket fix including detango and swap around
Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 7:39 am
THIS IS PART ONE...more guides will be added to this as we go
The how to guide will be split into a number of different guides all using the same T10 501, 5 watt socket for a number of different up grades and fixes on your Mk 1/2/2.5's as indicator or side light, the sockets can be bought from Autolinkmx5 which will become a more permanent repair than the OE side light socket.
We will cover repairing the common side light fault on the MK 1 front sidelight/indicator units that the holding key lugs become brittle and snap off or owners where owners pull them out breaking off the tabs forgetting that the twist lock not click out.
Also de-tango OE light units and swapping the side light and indicator around for a better safer side light.
Crystal clear US light units.
And lighting up your bumper reflectors as indicators( some light them up as marker lights but it's not a HGV lets be honest here).
Have you got one of these MK 1 owners...
And you have this in the back of the side light....
But in fact looks like this and that's ended up a poor excuse for a side light socket ( T10 501 5watt bulb ) ......
So normal solution by owners has been,,a new loom ( but it will still become brittle with time and snap the locking lugs off again ), black sticky mastic the same as the mastic used for the door membrane , blue tack, duck/gaffer tape, and the most stupid,,,gluing them in.
Well there is a far better cheaper more permanent way to repair the socket so you will not need to replace it again and should last longer than the Roadster.
The tools needed are...
2 or 4 New T10 501 socket ( no need for a new Mazda loom piece ( Depending on which guide you use)...Autolinkmx5, here... http://www.autolinkmx5.com/sidelight-bu ... 9101-p.asp
Phillips screw driver
Wire snips
Heat shrink
heat source for heat shrink
Soldering iron
Solder
Wire strippers
Electrical tape
1 or 2 T10 501 bulbs clear or orange (depending in which set up or repair you go for in this guide)
1 or 2 rear number plate bulbs/LED's or orange bulbs (depending in which set up or repair you go for in this guide)
Cordless drill (depending on which guide you use)
Step down drill bit (depending on which guide you use)
Crimp tool if using crimp connections( we do not recommend scotch clip connections for this job)
So we will start with repairing the side light sockets, now if you have one broken to be mended, you may as well do the two at the same time because the other will break...
Pop the bonnet and support with the prop ,either the OE prop or after-market.
Press the centre service raise button in the cab under the hazard light switch for the headlights so you have some room to unplug the indicator/sidelight loom...
Unscrew the light units by the 2 x Phillips head screws on either side of the unit and pull the unit out..
Pop the plug and socket off the plastic lug that holds it to the body of the mazster and pull the plug and socket apart...
Remove the unit and loom to the place you are going to be working on it, and remove the loom and sockets....
Cut the old 501 T10 side light socket off...
Strip the outer cover off the cable to reveal the wire...
Get your new 501 T10 socket and strip some cable back and slide your heat shrink on ready for soldering up.....
Cut two pieces of heat shrink and twist the bare copper and slide the heat shrink tubes onto the 501 socket cables....
Twist the bare wires of the OE loom to the new socket ready for soldering...
Red with green chaser is live from the OE loom to the yellow (colours may change) on the new 501 socket, black from the OE loom is negative to black on the 501 socket.
Now solder them together,Black to black.....
Now solder Red with green chaser to yellow (colours may change)...
Once soldered, time to slide the heat shrink from the new sockets cables from earlier over the soldered joints...
Now get the heat source for shrinking the heat shrink, I am using a kitchen ignition lighter from the £ shops etc...
Then get some electrical tape and tape up the new 501 socket cables/loom....
Now we need to nip off two of the rubber locking lugs from the new socket which must be opposite each other with a pair of wire cutters....
And then it is all finished.....
It is just a case of fitting the bulbs into the sockets fitting them back into the light unit and then back to the mazster, not forgetting to plug the light loom into the main mazster loom.
No more broken lugs and side light bulbs loose melting the light unit are using blue tag/glue/sealant to keep them in place to also stop the unit steaming up because the side light socket is not sealing up against the light unit, or buying another OE light loom for it for it to happen again.
As always ....any questions please feel free to contact one of the team and ask away..it is what we are here for..
M-m
The how to guide will be split into a number of different guides all using the same T10 501, 5 watt socket for a number of different up grades and fixes on your Mk 1/2/2.5's as indicator or side light, the sockets can be bought from Autolinkmx5 which will become a more permanent repair than the OE side light socket.
We will cover repairing the common side light fault on the MK 1 front sidelight/indicator units that the holding key lugs become brittle and snap off or owners where owners pull them out breaking off the tabs forgetting that the twist lock not click out.
Also de-tango OE light units and swapping the side light and indicator around for a better safer side light.
Crystal clear US light units.
And lighting up your bumper reflectors as indicators( some light them up as marker lights but it's not a HGV lets be honest here).
Have you got one of these MK 1 owners...
And you have this in the back of the side light....
But in fact looks like this and that's ended up a poor excuse for a side light socket ( T10 501 5watt bulb ) ......
So normal solution by owners has been,,a new loom ( but it will still become brittle with time and snap the locking lugs off again ), black sticky mastic the same as the mastic used for the door membrane , blue tack, duck/gaffer tape, and the most stupid,,,gluing them in.
Well there is a far better cheaper more permanent way to repair the socket so you will not need to replace it again and should last longer than the Roadster.
The tools needed are...
2 or 4 New T10 501 socket ( no need for a new Mazda loom piece ( Depending on which guide you use)...Autolinkmx5, here... http://www.autolinkmx5.com/sidelight-bu ... 9101-p.asp
Phillips screw driver
Wire snips
Heat shrink
heat source for heat shrink
Soldering iron
Solder
Wire strippers
Electrical tape
1 or 2 T10 501 bulbs clear or orange (depending in which set up or repair you go for in this guide)
1 or 2 rear number plate bulbs/LED's or orange bulbs (depending in which set up or repair you go for in this guide)
Cordless drill (depending on which guide you use)
Step down drill bit (depending on which guide you use)
Crimp tool if using crimp connections( we do not recommend scotch clip connections for this job)
So we will start with repairing the side light sockets, now if you have one broken to be mended, you may as well do the two at the same time because the other will break...
Pop the bonnet and support with the prop ,either the OE prop or after-market.
Press the centre service raise button in the cab under the hazard light switch for the headlights so you have some room to unplug the indicator/sidelight loom...
Unscrew the light units by the 2 x Phillips head screws on either side of the unit and pull the unit out..
Pop the plug and socket off the plastic lug that holds it to the body of the mazster and pull the plug and socket apart...
Remove the unit and loom to the place you are going to be working on it, and remove the loom and sockets....
Cut the old 501 T10 side light socket off...
Strip the outer cover off the cable to reveal the wire...
Get your new 501 T10 socket and strip some cable back and slide your heat shrink on ready for soldering up.....
Cut two pieces of heat shrink and twist the bare copper and slide the heat shrink tubes onto the 501 socket cables....
Twist the bare wires of the OE loom to the new socket ready for soldering...
Red with green chaser is live from the OE loom to the yellow (colours may change) on the new 501 socket, black from the OE loom is negative to black on the 501 socket.
Now solder them together,Black to black.....
Now solder Red with green chaser to yellow (colours may change)...
Once soldered, time to slide the heat shrink from the new sockets cables from earlier over the soldered joints...
Now get the heat source for shrinking the heat shrink, I am using a kitchen ignition lighter from the £ shops etc...
Then get some electrical tape and tape up the new 501 socket cables/loom....
Now we need to nip off two of the rubber locking lugs from the new socket which must be opposite each other with a pair of wire cutters....
And then it is all finished.....
It is just a case of fitting the bulbs into the sockets fitting them back into the light unit and then back to the mazster, not forgetting to plug the light loom into the main mazster loom.
No more broken lugs and side light bulbs loose melting the light unit are using blue tag/glue/sealant to keep them in place to also stop the unit steaming up because the side light socket is not sealing up against the light unit, or buying another OE light loom for it for it to happen again.
As always ....any questions please feel free to contact one of the team and ask away..it is what we are here for..
M-m