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MK 1 front side light socket fix including detango and swap around

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Mazda Mender
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MK 1 front side light socket fix including detango and swap around

Postby Mazda Mender » Fri Aug 19, 2016 7:39 am

THIS IS PART ONE...more guides will be added to this as we go

The how to guide will be split into a number of different guides all using the same T10 501, 5 watt socket for a number of different up grades and fixes on your Mk 1/2/2.5's as indicator or side light, the sockets can be bought from Autolinkmx5 which will become a more permanent repair than the OE side light socket.


We will cover repairing the common side light fault on the MK 1 front sidelight/indicator units that the holding key lugs become brittle and snap off or owners where owners pull them out breaking off the tabs forgetting that the twist lock not click out.
Also de-tango OE light units and swapping the side light and indicator around for a better safer side light.
Crystal clear US light units.
And lighting up your bumper reflectors as indicators( some light them up as marker lights but it's not a HGV lets be honest here).


Have you got one of these MK 1 owners...

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And you have this in the back of the side light....

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But in fact looks like this and that's ended up a poor excuse for a side light socket ( T10 501 5watt bulb ) ......

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So normal solution by owners has been,,a new loom ( but it will still become brittle with time and snap the locking lugs off again ), black sticky mastic the same as the mastic used for the door membrane , blue tack, duck/gaffer tape, and the most stupid,,,gluing them in.

Well there is a far better cheaper more permanent way to repair the socket so you will not need to replace it again and should last longer than the Roadster.

The tools needed are...


2 or 4 New T10 501 socket ( no need for a new Mazda loom piece ( Depending on which guide you use)...Autolinkmx5, here... http://www.autolinkmx5.com/sidelight-bu ... 9101-p.asp
Phillips screw driver
Wire snips
Heat shrink
heat source for heat shrink
Soldering iron
Solder
Wire strippers
Electrical tape
1 or 2 T10 501 bulbs clear or orange (depending in which set up or repair you go for in this guide)
1 or 2 rear number plate bulbs/LED's or orange bulbs (depending in which set up or repair you go for in this guide)

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Cordless drill (depending on which guide you use)
Step down drill bit (depending on which guide you use)
Crimp tool if using crimp connections( we do not recommend scotch clip connections for this job)

So we will start with repairing the side light sockets, now if you have one broken to be mended, you may as well do the two at the same time because the other will break...


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Pop the bonnet and support with the prop ,either the OE prop or after-market.

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Press the centre service raise button in the cab under the hazard light switch for the headlights so you have some room to unplug the indicator/sidelight loom...

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Unscrew the light units by the 2 x Phillips head screws on either side of the unit and pull the unit out..

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Pop the plug and socket off the plastic lug that holds it to the body of the mazster and pull the plug and socket apart...

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Remove the unit and loom to the place you are going to be working on it, and remove the loom and sockets....


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Cut the old 501 T10 side light socket off...

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Strip the outer cover off the cable to reveal the wire...

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Get your new 501 T10 socket and strip some cable back and slide your heat shrink on ready for soldering up.....

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Cut two pieces of heat shrink and twist the bare copper and slide the heat shrink tubes onto the 501 socket cables....

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Twist the bare wires of the OE loom to the new socket ready for soldering...

Red with green chaser is live from the OE loom to the yellow (colours may change) on the new 501 socket, black from the OE loom is negative to black on the 501 socket.

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Now solder them together,Black to black.....

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Now solder Red with green chaser to yellow (colours may change)...

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Once soldered, time to slide the heat shrink from the new sockets cables from earlier over the soldered joints...

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Now get the heat source for shrinking the heat shrink, I am using a kitchen ignition lighter from the ÂŁ shops etc...

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Then get some electrical tape and tape up the new 501 socket cables/loom....

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Now we need to nip off two of the rubber locking lugs from the new socket which must be opposite each other with a pair of wire cutters....

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And then it is all finished.....

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It is just a case of fitting the bulbs into the sockets fitting them back into the light unit and then back to the mazster, not forgetting to plug the light loom into the main mazster loom.
No more broken lugs and side light bulbs loose melting the light unit are using blue tag/glue/sealant to keep them in place to also stop the unit steaming up because the side light socket is not sealing up against the light unit, or buying another OE light loom for it for it to happen again.



As always ....any questions please feel free to contact one of the team and ask away..it is what we are here for..
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
User avatar
Mazda Mender
Site Admin
Posts: 12630
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
Location: Pie land,North west
Contact:

Re: MK 1 front side light socket fix including detango and swap around

Postby Mazda Mender » Thu Oct 06, 2016 7:33 am

*******PART TWO********
American crystal clear Mk 1 NA 1989 > 1997 ..........

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alo in smoked form....

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These look great on but will require some work to be used on a UK spec Mazsters as the European and Jap spec version use a two piece light loom which as a indicator and side light separate and the U.S version as a one piece so the side light, so there is no hole for the side light which needs to be cut out on the light unit with a step down drill bit to the correct size, the light loom from the unit you will be removing from the Mazster will need to be reused but we will need to replace the OE side light side sockets(501/T10)with some new ones which will be a good thing as most will have broken lugs any way ( see PART ONE) .
Now we will have two options on fitting these, we can either *****(option one)*****just replace the OE side light socket (501/T10) direct with the new socket on the loom which will give us a 5 watt 501/T10 side light bulb and you will need the get either a 21 watt orange ******* bulb or LED or *****(option two)***** revers the wiring around so you end up with a 5 watt orange 501/T10 bulb and a far better side light for being seen better using a *******clear bulb( same as the jap spec number plate light bulb) or LED, do not use a 21 watt *** bulb as it is to bright and you will get pulled with a curly finger from the law and MOT'ers,


******you might need a step up resister( which is added in to the flasher unit) if you do the swap around as the voltage changes can in some cases make the indicators flash a little faster, if the reflectors are being converted to also indicate ( Part three will cover this) then there is no need for a resister , but more on that later in the guide.
Another easier option is to fit a bigger wattage bulb to stop the fast tick, in this case it is for the swap around and fits straight into the 501 T10 socket around ÂŁ2.50 a bulb depending on where you go, the bay of e is a defo place to search...

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*********

Tools needed are as per *****PART ONE***** but you will also need a drill and step down bit...

OPTION ONE.... will be the same as the *****PART ONE****** above but you will need a** 581/PY 21watt-12volt*** orange bulbs or LED's that light up orange...

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The unit will or should arrive with these looms if new?, we do not need them, put them safe somewhere out of the way.

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You will need two of these.....

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From Autolinkmx5........http://www.autolinkmx5.com/sidelight-bu ... 9101-p.asp

We will be using the OE loom and added the new 501/T10 socket as ******PART ONE******, get the new unit and the drill and step down bit and drill the hole for the side light, TAKE YOUR TIME...remember it is only plastic so take it slow, drill and test, you can always take a little more out then try to add it, the hole needs to be 16 mm for the new socket to fit snug and tight, with these being the cyrstal clear light units DO NOT cut any of the locking lugs off as in *****PART ONE****** as we need them all on the fit and make the seal.

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Once the holes are drilled and you and you have soldered the 501/T10 socket onto the new loom following the *****PART ONE****** guide and add your orange.....bulb of choice it is just a case of pushing and twisting the new 501/T10 side light socket into the drilled hole and clicking the indicator socket and bulb into the unit and fitting it back to the mazster and plugging in the loom..

****OPTION TWO*******
All the tools required are the same , but we will be swapping the loom/socket/bulbs around so you get a far better safer side light that can be seen and a indicator that still works and can be seen...

So we need to drill the unit and get two 501/T10 sockets from Autolinkmx5 , two Mk 1 import rear number plate bulbs..... or LED's of choice, two orange 501/T10 bulbs or two orange 912A bulbs if you are not getting your side reflectors to indicate too.

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rear number plate bulb 245/12v-10watt/....

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912A bulb on the left, 501/T10 bulb on the right.......

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So to the OE light loom, cut the OE 501/T10 socket off ready for the new socket and also cut the OE indicator green wire only about a 2" from the socket, leave the black earth wire....


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Strip the outer cable off the cut wires and twist the copper strands....

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Cut your heat shrink ready for soldering and slide over the outer cables as far from where the heat will be from soldering....

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Now the important bit....The green flex from OE indicator(big socket) needs to be twisted together to the red with green chaser from the OE plug,now to the new 501/T10 socket, the black flex needs to go to black and in this case as the colours my vary, the yellow needs to go to the green from the OE plug....

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Get your kit as ****PART ONE**** ...

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And solder the joins all back solid....

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Slide your heat shrink over the new joins and heat up to shrink...

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Once shrunk and safe ,tape up with electrical tape .....

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Then it's just a case of pushing and twisting the 501/T10 socket to seal and put the big socket in place with a twist and lock...

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Then it is just a case of fitting them back to your Mazster, plugging them in and drive safe....







Pic's and write up.....
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
User avatar
Mazda Mender
Site Admin
Posts: 12630
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
Location: Pie land,North west
Contact:

Re: MK 1 front side light socket fix including detango and swap around

Postby Mazda Mender » Thu Oct 13, 2016 8:07 pm

*****PART THREE*****

This one is good for the MK 1,MK 2,Mk 2.5's...either for those extra indicators as a safety upgrade .......or some like them as side markers,you know because of how huge these are not being far of the same size as a artic lorry, :roll: ...... the guide shows us converting the standard fitted orange reflectors, this guide can also be used if using a set of clear type which seem to be popular so it is a simple case of the same procedure apply's only use a orange 501 T10 bulb instead..

Converting the OE bumper reflectors into indicators with the Autolinkmx5 501/T10 sockets http://www.autolinkmx5.com/sidelight-bu ... 9101-p.asp which 4 are needed and 4x clear 501/T10 bulbs, this is pretty straight forward.

Tools needed are as ***Part one*** and ***Part two*** ***option two*** as we will need to drill a hole in the back for the new socket 16mm, and some lengths of 2 core cable around ....inches long for the front and ...inches long for the rears.

So remove the standard reflectors from the bumpers which are held in place with 2 x s/steel phillips head screws..

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Don't worry about mixing them up as the fronts are wider than the rears and all are marked L & R....

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Now it is just a case of drilling a 16mm hole into the centre at the back of the units to take the new sockets by using a step down drill bit in all 4, take your time and keep trying the socket as you go,we want a nice twist in tight fit, easier to take more off than re adding, please be careful while drilling, we don't want a simple upgrade to become a A&E seat for the night...

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Once they are all drilled ,shake all the plastic drill fillings/burrs out of the units ready for the sockets.
The sockets only come with 3 or 4" of cable so you will need to add a longer 2 core flex section to them all ,measurements are from the base of the new socket to the end of the new add on piece...

Mk1
27" fronts,
31" rears

MK 2/2.5
31" fronts
40" rears.

So you will need to solder the cable together or crimp connections....

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As part one...(if soldering) slide your heat shrink on ready,strip the ends of the cables ready for soldering, twist the wires together, lead load, slide the heat shrink over the join, heat it up to cover it, and tape it all up ? slide trunking over or heat shrink...

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Once finished, add the 501 T10 bulb to the socket, white for the orange reflectors and orange for the clear units and push the socket into the hole you drilled in the reflectors..

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Feed the cable into the reflector mounting hole and screw the unit back in place...

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Now you need to thread the cable to up into the engine bay....

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Get your tester and check for the indicator wire by switching on the hazards (green with a white chaser in this case)...

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So now we just need to join our wires to the car loom, (if soldering them in) strip some of the (Green and white chaser back which is the live and the black which is negitive or earth) ready, if you are using nasty scotch clip connections then there is no need to strip wire back...

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And in this case because of the cable we are using the red will be soldered to the green with white chaser and the black to black....

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Once you have connected up and made safe with electric tape, you need to make sure the new cable is all made secure so they do not catch in the MK 1's headlight mech in anyway and underneath in the wheel arch, cable ties to the support bar with a bit of play just in case you need to unscrew the unit to change a bulb works...

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Do the same on the other side and then onto the back...
All the Same procedure as the front with removing the reflector and joining up the two core cable to the T01 T10 socket etc,...
screw the reflector back in with the socket and cable...

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Next we need to remove the crap out of the boot for access ***please Note we are using a MK 1 for this, more trime will need to be removed for a Mk 2/2.2***...

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Remove the rubber grommet...

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Pass the cable under the roadster though the grommet hole and into the boot...

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Make an hole in the grommet and thread the cable through and back in the hole, leave some slack in the cable so it is easier to change a bulb if needed and it is free from being rubbed through on the boddy work..

next we need to test for the live , so same as before, hazdards on and check for the live (in this case it is a green with a black chaser) with the tester to a earth point....

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Route the new reflector cable to the light cluster and unplug the loom plug from the cluster and strip the wire back for soldering joining the red to the green with black chaser and the black to black..

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Insulate the newly join connections with electric tape and plug the plug back into the cluster, check it works, do the same on the other side, put all your crap back in the boot and all fitted and working.......

(yes I know it as turned into a MK 2.5, they are magic reflectors.... ;0) )

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As always if you are unsure please ask, it is what we are here for..

Many thanks to Andrew Stott from Autolinkmx5 for the supply of sockets to be able to build these walk through how to guides... http://www.autolinkmx5.com/
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/

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