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MK 1 NA manual door mirror repair...

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Mazda Mender
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MK 1 NA manual door mirror repair...

Postby Mazda Mender » Thu Nov 14, 2019 8:41 am

It is very common problem with the MK 1 NA manual door mirrors to seize up on adjustment, as the adjuster hinge bolt/pivot point and the inner workings slowly rust away to dust. On the day when you come to adjust it and the base stays firmly to the door while you cradle the door mirror in your hands, or you slam the door shut or your are driving along , hit a pot hole and the mirror becomes one with the floor.
It can all be fixed as long as you have all the old mirror parts for a couple of ÂŁ's for a few parts and some time, the parts needed which were supplied by autolinkmx5...

1 x tension spring..... LINK TO PART > https://www.autolinkmx5.com/door-mirror ... RRpJJbGGv4
1 x long adjuster bolt, nut and washers.... LINK TO PART > https://www.autolinkmx5.com/door-mirror ... yG9sA-rlmU


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Tools needed....

1 x large phillips driver( T bar type is best)
1 x utility knife
1 x socket
1 x hammer
1 x sand paper
1 x super glue
1 x grease
2 x 1/4 drive ratchet , extension bar, and 8 mm socket
2 x 8 mm spanner
1 x can of black spray paint ( optional)


******CLICKING ONTO THE IMAGES WILL ENLARGE THEM FOR BETTER VIEWING******


First thing is to unclip and twist the base cover trim to expose the two times phillips head bolts. These need to be both removed to get the base off the door, some can give up a good fight, so we spray penetrating oil on from the top and on the thread in the door and use a large T phillips driver, and back and forth until it is out, slowly is the key to removal...

Get yourself a medium flat driver, and locate the rectangle cut out underneath at the bottom of the mirror mount cover. Insert the driver in , up and on the mount bracket "NOT THE DOOR AND PAINT" and slowly pry out wards and it should just pop off with no damage to anything...

***Video link to help***.......

https://youtu.be/zmjxoFHjArA



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Now most of this applies if the mirror is still attached....

Now twist the mirror so it is facing outwards towards you and the cover of the mirror towards the 1/4 light and twist the mount cover so you have a clear excess to the mount/body phillps head bolt. Use your T bar phillps driver bar( if you have one) and crack the bolt. If you're lucky it will turn all the way out without too much of a fight, but not many do, so make sure the phillips is a solid fit, the last thing you want is it rounded off. Apply freeing up spray and turn out, turn in etc. slowly is the key. I have in the past taken the door card off to spray the threads on the inside also to help. At this point I personally apply copper slip on the thread of the bolt once its out and screw it back in so it is solid. Now ready to attack the other bolt....

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Now twist the mirror so it is facing the windows and twist the mount cover the other way to be able to excess the other bolt, same process again, freeing up oil etc, back and forth until its out then you can remove the other bolt again and remove the whole mirror to be worked on....


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If it is going to be left over night, put a grommet or gaffer tape over the holes....

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In most cases you are left with the two parts, mirror unit and the base with the rusty broken stud bolt....

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Once it is off, we can start to take it all apart starting with the mirror body you will need the blade from a utility knife. It is easy with the blade removed and be very careful and locate the edge of the blade inbetween the black trim and the body of the mirror and press down, work your way around it will crack free slowly with no damage .......

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The eagle eyed of you will notice that the trim is broken, this was already the case as it was more than obvious that it had been repaired before by "have not got a clue". There was a number of issues with this simple fix I had to overcome and sort first from "anything will do man" before repairing correct for this guide...

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Once it is off, be very careful and hook the mirror out of the mirror body...

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Remove all the old rusty bolts and springs etc, leaving the square washer only on the base where the hole for the new bolt will go through and give everything a good clean.



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Including the s/steel cup on the outside where the hinge /pivot parts fit, wire wool with oil on it is perfect....

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Now we can turn our attention to the base...remove the trim and pop the old rusty hinge bolt out and pivot knuckle...


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The cast base in most cases will need a good clean up, in this case I sanded back to make the inner and outer pivot part all nice and smooth again and repainted it back to black...

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Now if the rusty old nut and bolt is like this one as most will be and the nut a blob of rust, it needs to come out... So get hold of a socket and place the plastic knuckle on it with the socket on something solid, and get a small hammer and give the bolt head a few gentle taps until it drifts out and through, be careful as we do need to reuse the plastic knuckle pivot, and then just clean it up ready for re-fitting....

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Now we can start to rebuild it all back up together...

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Starting with the base, apply rubber grease to the inner ball section, and add the plastic knuckle back in place , then drop the base cover trim back on and just put it to one side for the minute....

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Now we turn our attention to the mirror housing, apply some grease to the base of where the hinge bolt is going to be passing through onto the square metal washer if it is still intact and not dust...

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Now get the new hinge bolt and add a washer at the bolt head, the new tension spring, another washer ( I have added an extra washer as the square one in the mirror housing was dust) and then position it all into the mirror housing with the threaded end going from in to out I added grease to the thread before putting the bits together, this purely to help stop rust ....

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Add some lithium grease to the cup...

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Now get the base and guide the threaded hinge bolt through the base and plastic knuckle , it will help to have the base cover trim loose at this point,add the washer and nylon lock nut to the hinge bolt.....

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Get your 8mm sockets, I personally use a 1/4 drive ratchet and a screw driver that fits 1/4 sockets, but as long as you get your hands on two 8mm sockets/spanners to hold one end and tighten the other thats needed....

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Then it is just a case of tightening them up solid....

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Once tight apply grease to the nut/thread and to the tension spring etc, simply to help stop rust , and then put the mirror back in the housing...

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Now it is just a case of sticking the housing trim back on. I have personally found it easier to just put the trim face down onto something soft run your super glue all the way around into the groove that fits to the housing. You do not need to fill it , we are only tacking it back on. Then press the fixed mirror housing into/on the trim and hold it in place until the glue goes off. You could rest something on it the keep the pressure on while you go off and make a brew and leave it doing what it should, just don't put to heavy a weight on, its only plastic...

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Then once it is all back together again, re-fit as removed applying a bit of grease to the bolt holes and bolts, you never know further down the years, these are not fun to remove with rusted bolts....

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That's it all done. Go and enjoy the roadster... :handgestures-thumbup: :coffee:

LINKS for parts.......
https://www.autolinkmx5.com/door-mirror ... RRpJJbGGv4

https://www.autolinkmx5.com/door-mirror ... yG9sA-rlmU

As always any questions , please ask , its what we are here for....

If you have found this guide to be useful, helpful or as helped you with your roadster with saving on garage costs , please consider making a donation to keep these gates available for others and so new info can still be added to carry on helping.


M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


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