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Dials - how to make them

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Hamish
Serial Poster
Posts: 346
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:00 pm

Dials - how to make them

Postby Hamish » Sat Aug 10, 2013 5:37 pm

This is a placeholder for a how to on making dials - the DIY way.

I have been asked a lot of times how to do this and I am more than happy to share and help where I can. The 'How To' will be split into three parts:

1. Design
2. Making them and cutting them
3. Fitting them

Being a stickler for orderly conduct and an avid reader of Discovery CHennel like accuracy of Ikea instructions, we will start at the beginning: 2. Making and Cutting Them :laughing-rolling: :obscene-buttsway:

I will lock this tread until all tutorials are written. When it's complete, I will provide templates - so far for the Mk1 but I am designing dials for Mk2 and Mk3. I will make them all available.

Word of warning:
If you are not one for patience, which is rare in a bloke, don't try this as it will frustrate you no end. I'm different, being rodent like, I can sit still for hours :coffee:
Regards, Hammy.
1990 Eunos 1.6 Classic Red, soon to be a different colour
User avatar
Hamish
Serial Poster
Posts: 346
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:00 pm

Re: Dials - how to make them

Postby Hamish » Sat Aug 10, 2013 8:29 pm

Right then.... first up, I have spent a long time (very ling time) getting this right and as you will see with the design and printing how to, it's a reet PITA to get this right.

However, this has all been done so you don't have to and the templates (and print settings) will be provided.

First, a reminder of what paper I settled on: Canon 260G semi gloss paper code SG201 I used this because the texture is just right when printed and the printing adds the effect.
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Now we have our two layers - on the left the mask layer and on the right the top layer. I will add I have spent months perfecting the mask layer and this is equally if not more important than the top or face layer - but I will explain more about the masking later in the design bit.
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Some close ups of the difference between the mask and face. The mask may look odd and messy - it's not it is in fact extremely accurate for a reason as you will see.. I will explain exactly how I did it.

Close up of the detail on the face layer - there is a reason for the black lines arund the numbers - and that is to make them 'pop' with the mask layer:
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Differences between the two layers: excuse dust marks on some pics...
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This pic is blurred a bit - bad camera, sorry
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Now, we have to join the two layers together. Roughly cut out each dial and use the edge of the paper as the joining line. ON the edge of the face layer, cut back a cm shorter than the mask layer - this will be used to attach tape so the top and bottom layers open like a book..

First up, use a light to match mask to face and keep tight hold of both pieces - I will remind you that you need to wear talc free latex gloves:

Match layers with a back light and keep tight hold: Excuse any blurred pics...not easy tacking pics with dials in one hand camera in other and looking into a light!!
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Now you can see why the face layer edge is cut short so you can attach tape - to keep layers matched ready for next stage:
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Now when you have done them all you need to mix some pva wood glue with water. Once mixed I used kitchen towel folded up to make a brush - I did this to make sure the applying of the glue was thin and even:

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Here is why you tape at the edge so you can apply the glue, very thing and fold down flat as it ensures both layers match - simples.
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Apply glue and wait a minute or so until tacky, then folder over, place in an MX5 workshop manual:
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Once you have do them all and they are in the book, place a heavy weight on top and leave for an hour or so:
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Once they are dry remove them - you now have nice flat, stiff dials ready to cut:
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Now check them against the light. Bear in mind this is very bright light - what you see as bright white areas will shine through in the binnacle, all other areas will not. The mask layer is where it is important in blocking out light and allowing other light to pass through...

Now this is where the odd looking mask comes into it's own by making the face layer really pop in the light:
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Now, you need to coat the face layer with a dusting of ordinary lacquer. WHilst the printed surface can be handled as they are without risk of damaging them, adding a dusting of lacquer will further protect them:
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Once done leave to dry for an hour or so...ready for the next bit - cutting out.
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Now you might notice there are no centre marks - these are for demonstration purposes only. The template I supply will have deadly accurate 'cut out' holes...

I'll do the other bits later. This

This thread is locked to get all how to's up then it will be opened. In the meantime, anyone with any questions, PM me :)
Regards, Hammy.
1990 Eunos 1.6 Classic Red, soon to be a different colour

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