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First off, you will need:-
A electric boot release kit (this kit was from the bay of E ÂŁ15.00)
10mm ratchet with extension
Cross head screwdriver
Drill with metal drill bit(?SIZE)
Crimp tool
Wire strippers
Please note that the wiring instructions with this kit tell me to wire the switch from a live source, I was not happy having the switch live so I personally wired the switch from a earth to make the loop contact to make the boot release motor work.
This is what we will be fitting:
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We need to remove trim from the boot that covers the locking latch....
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This is our route to feed the wire from the boot area into the cab...
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This is the bracket and switch that came with the kit, we personally will not be using the bracket but need the switch...
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Running the switch wire from the boot to the cab....
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We will be running out where the other black wires are not through the seat-belt mech....
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You will need to undo/remove the two 12mm head bolts from the rear deck guard also....
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Feed the wire to where ever you personally want the switch to be, in this case we will be fitting it to the center arm rest....
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Now it's time to finish running the wire from the switch nice and neat so it looks like it should be there and safe then connect to a pin on the solenoid....
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This is the 10mm nut that we will be connecting the boot modulator to which is holding the number plate light housing on a Eunos...
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Next is to drill the hole bigger so it can be bolted down solid.....
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Now you need to remove the locking latch...
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Flick the plastic locking hinge from off the boot lock bar...
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We will need to drill a hole in the arm of the locking latch...
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Hole drilled....
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The plastic outer cover for the wire from the locking solenoid needs to be cut down to the correct length....
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And then fed on to the wire...
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Feed the cable through the drilled hole on the locking latch arm....
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Re-fit the locking latch ( there maybe a need to final adjust later for the boot to shut correctly?)....
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Slide the cable locker/stopper on and screw it solid on the cable/arm, cut off the extra cable not needed and refit the lock bar....
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This is another way of connecting the cable, which is using a block from a Remote C/Locking kit....
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Now we need to fit the live for the locking solenoid.(remove the fuse until everything is fitted) as we will be using the positive side direct from the battery...
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Crimp on a earth connection...
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Undo the bolt from the battery clamp and fit the earth connection to the square side off the clamp bolt and bolt back up tight....
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Run the live wire(without the fuse in place) to the solenoid connection and tidy all the wiring up nice and neat....
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Now you need to drill the hole in the center arm rest for the switch....
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The switch pre-wired ready for fitting....
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And fitted up ready for connecting....
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Earth point which needs to attach to one of the connections on the switch, the other being from the locking solenoid....
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Strip the two ends ready for some male and female bullet connections......
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Bullet connections on , the reason I have done this is, If there is any reason that the armrest needs to be removed the bullet connections can be unplugged so it can be removed and plugged back in on refitting. There is nothing to worry about because we have wired the switch to use a earth loop not a live loop
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All finished and neat, all that is left to do is re-install the fuse and give it a try
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Big thank you to Paula for letting us play with rupert to make this How to
M-m
