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Mx5 Mk1 NA /Mk 2/2.5NB Replacing a front caliper and servicing ...

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Mazda Mender
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Mx5 Mk1 NA /Mk 2/2.5NB Replacing a front caliper and servicing ...

Postby Mazda Mender » Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:10 pm

This walk through guide will take you through the correct procedure on servicing and also replacing a front caliper so it will last...

I was servicing the brakes on the project Mk 2 Roadster V.S and found that the calipers bleed nipple had seen far better days and was stuck fast, plus it did not help that who ever had attacked the braking system before me had also rounded it off, someone asked on here on how to change a caliper, so I took pictures at the same time...

You will need...

1 x caliper....Supplied by Autolinkmx5 for this guide....https://www.autolinkmx5.com/
1 x bottle of brake fluid Dot 3 or 4
1 x set of wheel chokes
1 x axle stand
1 x tub of copper grease
1 x tub of red rubber grease
1 x 1/2 drive breaker bar
1 x 1/2 drive ratchet
1 x 1/2 drive 14mm,17mm,12mm sockets
selection of 1/2 drive extension bars
1 x 3/8 drive ratchet
1 x 3/8 drive 12mm socket
1 x 1/4 drive ratchet
1 x 1/4 drive 8 mm socket dependent on the bleed nipple fitted as it could be a aftermarket 7mm or 9mm
1 x long reach 8mm round end spanner
1 x push back tool or G clamp (if fitting new pads)
1 x large file
1 x medium flat screw driver
1 x wire brush
1 x rubber bleeding hose
1 x jar for bleeding with
Selection of rags
1 x hose clamp
1 x extra person to help with the bleeding off of the brakes
1 x tin of brake cleaner or similar

First thing is ...flat ground, and then wheel choke the opposite side to the one your working on....

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Crack the wheel nuts ( not all the way off just yet)....

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Jack the Roadster up and secure onto a axle stand....

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Remove the wheel and put the wheel nuts safe....

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Pop the bonnet and loosen the filler bottle cap and just rest in on top of the bottle, leave the key in the ignition but NOT on just so the steering lock does not kick in, turn the steering wheel so the caliper is facing outwards towards you....

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Lay some rags or a tray under the hub, there will be fluid loss...

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Get your hose clamp and clamp the brake hose....

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Get your 3/8 drive ratchet and 12mm socket...

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Undo and remove the banjo bolt

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Pull the hose free from the caliper, and make sure you remove the banjo copper seal washers and put them safe with the banjo bolt...

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Get your 1/2 drive breaker bar and 17mm socket for bottom slider pin, at this stage if the new caliper you are re fitting does not have the slider pins in also undo the 14mm top slider pin while the caliper is still connected to the brake carrier, but do not remove it all the way out just yet... ( please note that this is the 1.8 front caliper and the slider pins on a MK 1 1.6 will be the opposite way around 14mm at the bottom and 17mm at the top, the large "sports brakes" that are fitted are different again and will go into that further down in this guide ) .....

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And crack the bolt free...

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Once you have cracked it, get the 1/2 drive ratchet and 17mm socket and finish removing it, as you can see the slider pin will need cleaning up before re-fitting...

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Now you can hinge the old caliper off, make sure you have some rags ready as there will be brake fluid ready to go everywhere you don't want it to go...

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If you are just swapping a caliper, you need to jump ahead in the guide to further down on re fitting, the next bit is for the ones that will also be fitting new disks and pads...

Using the 1/2 drive breaker bar again but with a 14mm socket the crack the caliper carrier bolt on the hub up right....

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Same again, once cracked get the 1/2 drive ratchet and 14mm socket and finish removing the two bolts and carrier....

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Now you can remove the disk also...

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Now turn your attention back to the caliper carrier and slider clips, surface rust can build up and does need to be removed to service the brakes correct, a medium flat screw driver will help to gently nudge them out, please be careful as we do not want these out of shape because we will be re-using them, unless you have new ones?....

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Grab a file and remove the rust build up in the castle sections where the slider clips live...

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Clean up the slider clips with the flat head, wire brush etc...

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Once you are happy that the clips are clean enough, and this goes for the new ones too, just give them a bend out and open up the castle section a little more...

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Now the pads, grab the file again and file the castle sections....

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At this point we cleaned and painted up the Caliper carrier and new caliper...

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Using a tub of copper grease, apply grease to the upright where the caliper carrier is going to be bolted back into place in the surface and in where the bolt will go, no need to go mad with it...

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Apply a smear onto the bearing hub face and re-fit the disk...

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Top tip>>>>
Get your wheel nut to hold the disk in place while you work , if it is to short add a thick washer....

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Onto the carrier again, apply copper grease to the castle sections etc...

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Now onto the back of the slider clips and push them back into place on the carrier and apply copper grease to the castle section of the slider clips....

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Apply grease to the mating face and inside and to the bolt threads...

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Apply some red rubber grease to the slider pin sockets...

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Offer up the carrier back to the upright and re bolt down with the bolts with the 1/2 drive ratchet and 14 mm socket....

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Once back on tight we can now re-add the pads, smear some copper grease onto the back of the pads, and then re attach the shim, apply copper grease to the contact areas and to the filed down castle sections....

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Refit the the pad and do the same to the other one...

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Now before doing this next bit check that the piston pot is pushed all the way back if not use a push back tool or G clamp to do so....

The Caliper was supplied by Autolinkmx5 for this walk through guide...... https://www.autolinkmx5.com/

Now onto re-fitting the caliper (yes we painted it also) if you removed the slider pin from the top, ( this must be rust free and smooth) apply a smear of grease to the thread on the caliper body/slider pin thread and tighten it back up the best you can for the minute,wipe any copper grease off the slider pin, apply copper grease to inner front forks that will connect to the pad and smear some on the caliper pot bottom and sides....

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Slide the caliper back onto the carrier...

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Now fit the lift off spring/anti rattle spring, spread them out to give them a bit more tension...

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Hinge up the caliper and hold the pads in place while you push the hook part of the spring into the holes on the edge of the metal body of the pads....

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Get the other spring and spread out again, hinge the caliper up so the pot and the front forks stay rested on the pads to keep them in place while you push the bottom spring into place, when in place push the caliper back down into place ...

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Using the bottom slider pin with the 17mm head, making sure there is no rust on it and nice and smooth, apply some grease to the slider pins thread and re-fit and tighten back up....

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Switch to a 14mm and tighten up the top slider pin also.....

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Using a 3/8 drive ratchet and 12mm socket add a little grease to the alignment hole for the brake hose, make sure that you fit a banjo copper sealing washer on the caliper and offer up the brake hose union end to the caliper.....

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Using the other banjo copper sealing washer and banjo bolt...put the washer on the bolt and then into the union and screw down ,tighten up with the 3/8 ratchet and 12mm socket......

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Undo and remove the hose clamp from the brake hose......

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Pump the brake pedal a good few times and and then top up the brake fluid bottle ready for bleeding off....

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To bleed the air out of the caliper, put your 8mm round spanner on the bleed nipple , put the bleeding tube on the bleed nipple and the other end in the jar with a little fluid in the bottom to stop air going back up the tube....

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***Now it is time for bleeding off,You must keep an eye on the fluid level , "DO NOT LET IT GO LOW OR RUN DRY" even more so on a roadster with the ABS system, if air gets into the pump then good luck getting it out, there is no bleed nipple, have your willing helper to pump the brake pedal a good number of times and stop, then it is a case of opening up the bleed nipple on the caliper and asking our helper to press the brake pedal down to the floor and holding it there while you re -close the bleed nipple, get them to pump the pedal again a number of times and stop, open the bleed nipple on the caliper again, and again ask the helper to press the pedal down to the floor and hold it there while you re-close the bleed nipple , this needs to be done at least 4 times or until your happy it is bled off, remove the tube ( watch that brake fluid and jar, the 8mm spanner and re-fit the bleed nipples rubber cap***

Once bled off, top up the filler bottle, re-screw the filler bottle cap back on and apply some copper grease around the thread of the bleed nipple

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Close the bonnet, remove the wheel nut and washer, apply a smear of grease to the brake hub face, if there is any grease on the disk then that needs to be removed with a rag and some brake cleaner or similar,clear all your tools etc away and re add the wheel, jack it off the axle stand and remove the stand, bring her back down to the ground tighten the wheel nuts, remove the chokes and job done...

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What I will add is that once you service the brakes in this way( Rear caliper guide to follow and the so called "sports brakes) at the next service all you will need to do is wipe the old grease off and just re-fresh as the old grease as worked as lube in some areas and protection in others, there will be no need to remove the carrier unless you are fitting new disks in which case there will be no major struggles as the hard work will pay off now and it will all come apart very easy, you will not need to file down the pads( unless you are fitting new) and a quick bleed off of the moisture in the caliper pots is easy as that is all that is required not replacing the whole fluid.
This is the way I have done it for far to long and it works, the braking system on one of my MK 1 NA's is a 1993 and is still on the factory calipers, lubed , protected and bled in the correct places every 12 months at service time and preform like they are still new, started with MGB's,Midgets,Triumphs etc, so protection is high on my list always.

I hope this helps and saves you some money...

Go and enjoy your Roadster again...

My thanks to Andrew at Autolinkmx5 for supplying the caliper for this guide...

As is the norm , any questions please just ask , it's what we and the forum are here for..
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.

Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/

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