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Mk 1 import rear fog light into rear light cluster

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Mk 1 import rear fog light into rear light cluster

Postby Mazda Mender » Mon Jul 11, 2016 8:00 am

This is a basic guide for adding a rear fog light to your Mx/Roadster be it any model or version MK 1 to MK 4...this can also be used for any other car...

The car we are using is a MK 1 1996 Eunos import, as the imports from Japan do not need a factory rear fog light fitted, but we need it here and a switch that illuminates to tell us it's on for MOT's, the rear fog light can be of your choice, in this case we will be converting one of the reversing lights in the rear cluster(right hand side) but you can add what is required , please note that it should be on the right hand side, but saying that most new cars are in the centre??? and using the third boot brake light is not legal, and should fail test if converted that way....

[color=#FF0000] ********* DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE STARTING*********[/color]

You will need...

A red bulb or LED bulb
A illuminated red switch of choice
A roll of 14 gauge wire (red)
A roll of 14 gauge wire (black)
A number of female spade crimp connectors (3 in this guide for the switch)
A earth hoop crimp connector
A soldering iron and solder
A solder mat to protect the carpet in-case any solder falls.
Some heat shrink
A roll of electrical tape
A in line fuse holder and 10 amp fuse ( in this case we are using a large blade fuse with a LED that lights up if it blows)
A Phillips screw driver
A 1/4 drive ratchet, small extension and 10mm socket
A voltage tester
Wire snips
Wire strippers
Cordless drill and a step down drill bit to 20mm( only in this case with the one we have chosen and using for this guide )
Crimping tool
Lighter/ heat source (for the heat shrink)
Some cable ties.
A good day and patience.


Remove the steering column cover trim by removing the two x Phillips head trim screws....

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Drill the 20mm hole for our switch (only if you are doing it this way)...

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Remove the side trim, kick plate, unhook the carpet, remove the rear pillar trim, remove your spare wheel from the boot,and we can now feed the wire that will send the power to the rear fog lamp.

Once you have run the wire, leave plenty over to play with at both ends , put all the trim bits back bar the steering column trim and spare wheel.

Now we need a voltage tester, there are a couple of types and you do not need a expensive all singing and dancing tester for this and for most jobs on the Roadster, we now need to find our main head light live when ignition is on..in this case we are installing into a MK 1 Eunos 1996 with the revamped up and over stalks the same as the Mk 2/2.5's, but it makes no difference as we are searching for the correct wire needed, use the spike on the tester to pierce the outer skin of the cable/wire to test ( watch you don't press to hard and straight throw a finger please), once it lights up turn the lights on and off to see if it is the correct one ,if not continue the search until you get the right one( I won't give a colour as the guide is for any car)....

So grab a simple 12volt electric tester( either will do)....
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And look for the live feed with ignition on and headlights on(in this case it is a MK 1)...

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Strip some outer cable back for us to solder the in-line fuse to..( for safety reasons disconnect the battery) you can also see in the picture that the red wire running top to bottom is the feed wire to the boot ready to connect to the switch....

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In-line fuse holder, don't forget to remove the fuse (10 amp) at this point as it will be one of the last things we put back and make sure there is plenty of wire to run from the source live to the switch, the fuse we are using in this case is fitted with a LED that illuminates when blown, I do recommend getting these for the MK 1's for the main fuse box behind the dash as it will make things a lot easier when one does blow in the stupid place they fitted it(owners of MK 1's will understand the pain and positions needed to change one.....

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Because I will be soldering in the connections rather than scotch clips or crimp connections as it makes it more of a solid add on, so I put down a heat resistant mat just in case any solder drops so the OE mats and carpet don't get burnt ...

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Solder and soldering iron, lighter for the heat shrink and electric tape at the ready....

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Wrap in the in-line fuse holder wire to the live source....

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And solder in solid.....

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With it being a tap in join,we cannot use heat shrink ,so the electric tape is needed to cover the join and make safe....

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Now we move to wiring in the switch, in this case I am using a button switch that illuminates up red when the rear fog light is on as the illumination is required for MOT passes, the choice of switch is down to the owner as you can use a OE switch etc and fit it where you choose to, the reason I am not using one of the switch spaces for this is because the Mx/Roadsters are limited for space, and there is a number of other plug and play OE switches that can only be used in the dash holes, heated rear window, dimmer switch, electric mirrors, front fogs/spots etc, you see that is four and we only have 3 holes, so it is left open for the other choices if wished, plus you will not miss the red switch on as it is with the rest of the cluster of switches....

The after-market switch I am using is wired by 3 wires only in this case, a OE switch will need a feed for background illumination and earth so 5 wire connections in total, so this one requires a source live, and feed to the rear lamp and earth only...

So in this case I will need 3 x female spade connectors , wire strippers, a crimp tool, depending on the spade connection some come insulated and some don't ours did not so you will need some heat shrink once crimped or electric tape, wire the switch up as directions on the switch body once you have routed wires and through the hole you are using...


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Now we need to find a earth point , and there are loads to pick from, no need to drill holes and use self tappers, I picked this 10mm bolt on the ignition case for the Auto roadster version cable....

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Get the earth connection of the correct size for the bolt to fit through, feed the earth wire to the place you are happy with to bolt down solid to the body and cut off the excess that is not needed, strip some outer cable off the end and feed into the crimp connection and crimp down solid with the crimper tool, now bolt it down to the new earth point...

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Push the switch into place which ever one you are using and where....


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Leave the fuse still out and the steering column cover still off as we will be coming back to tidy up all the new fresh wiring after we have finished at the rear cluster...


Now into the boot, we have fed the new power feed through the Roadster into the boot, and the spare wheel is still removed, and I have now removed the back most trim panel which is held in place by 7 x trim buttons which are removed by lifting the centre bit out and then pulling the whole button body out, personally I am a hater of added in wires that look like washing lines on cars and like to make it look like it should be there, this is down to your choice..so I have fed the new wire (only one needed) following the OE loom into the boot to the battery, as I hit the aerial I then start to route the wire off and up in and through the tub over and around the battery and down past the door lock for where I am going to connect into the rear drivers reversing light loom, there is only one live feed needed to the bulb as the rear cluster already as a earth connection running for all the bulbs being used.......

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Wire hidden behind the sound proofing....

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Now we need to open up the loom trunking that runs behind the rear panel to the rear cluster and find the reversing light wire to the bulb by using our tester and pushing the battery connections on loose , ignition on but not running and put her in reverse, the wire needed was the red with a green chaser, once found, turn ignition off, out of reverse and the battery connections back off....

Wire found after trunking and tape removed...

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Cut it...

We will be using the piece that runs to the light cluster, the other piece needs to be electrical taped up up nice and safe out of the way as we will never need this unless she gets imported back to Japan...

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Slide the heat shrink on the new wire/cable that you have run and connecting strip the ends in the new wire and the one that runs to the cluster and wrap the wire together for soldering...

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Solder the joint together solid and cover the joint with the heat shrink and heat it up to shrink....

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Put the battery connections on loose and go and put the 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder for the rear fog lamp, turn ignition on, head lights on and click the rear fog lamp switch to test before you put everything back together...

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And without the stupid red brick that was cut into the bumper, others will not have this problem I hope.........

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Everything is F*A*B, so now we just need to tidy everything up , electric tape and cable ties....

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Tighten up the battery connections nice and tight,replace the spare wheel and all trim etc, and make our way back to the drivers side cab for a tidy up and put everything back together again...

Cable tie everything up safe a neat remembering that you need to be able to get to the fuse if ever needed...

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Get the cable snips and cut off the essence.....

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Put the steering column trim piece back onto the dash and secure it back up with the two Phillips head screws and job done,enjoy and safe motoring.

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Any questions ,please just ask :handgestures-thumbup:
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

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