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Mk1/2/2.5/3 drainage points and how to clear them

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Mazda Mender
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Mk1/2/2.5/3 drainage points and how to clear them

Postby Mazda Mender » Mon Dec 28, 2015 11:33 am

One of the biggest and most important tasks an owner of these roadsters does need to do regularly is to clear the drainage points, These can get blocked very quickly and can bring on major costs to repair with body work rotted out from a task that will take no more than couple of minutes.

The 3 main points are...
1) Drainage trays and tubes that catch the water from the rain rail and into the drainage tray and out through of the Roadsters by the drainage tube.

2) The sill jacking point drainage points/holes.

3) And one that is very often forgotten is the scuttle run off, which runs off behind the front wing, which can get blocked up with old leaves etc and rot the front wing out.


1)....The main drainage trays and tubes for the water run off for the hood/roof into the rain rail gutter are on either side of the rear side of the rear deck behind the pillars .....

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*****Please note the roof and frame has been removed to show you where the drainage points are(there is no need to remove the roof), rodding is best done with the hood/roof up*****

And then in close up, these are the worst you would get and as you can see the silt build up from old leaves etc from a long long time of never being done, and on the drivers side it is blocked and the water is running out of the tray and through the body work, water will find its own route out, this would of resulted in rear sills rotting and rear arches if left.....

Passenger side...

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Drivers side....

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Rodding out is easy, We personally recommend two items to use

The MK 1/MK 2/2.5 OE s/steel whip aerials which is perfect as it is made of s/steel and as a s/steel ball on the end so will not dislodge the drainage tube from the tray while you rod and clear them free from silt build up....

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And the very cheap to buy off the bay of E trombone cleaner.....

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Drivers side being rodded, drained and cleaned, when rodding you will feel some resistance ,this is normal as there is a road noise flap at the bottom of the drainage tube, be careful not to pull the flap back on its self as this will block flow out, once rodded if possible it is a good idea to run some fresh clean water through to clean and silt left.....

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And cleaned....

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The bottom of the drainage tube....

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The easiest ones to work on and clear are the Mk 1's with a zip out windows i have personally found, although the trombone cleaner makes it short work on them all with the hood/roof up with being so flexible..

Unlatch and take the tension off and unzip the rear window...

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And just lean in, feel for the drainage tray pictured above and feed the Mk 1 or 2's whip aerial or trombone cleaner in and down the drainage tube and rod up and down a good couple of times....

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Another big one that we hit is the stuff that is thrown onto the rear deck shelf then rolls around the back and into the drainage trays to block them,,, in the worst cases the trays and tubes have had to be removed to unblock them and re-fit...... SO STOP DOING IT PLEASE :sad: .

With the MK 3's you need to unlatch the hood and open it half way to give you access to the drainage trays and drainage tubes, best thing to do is use a small cardboard box to hold it half open to work on you need to look onto the rear deck behind the seats/panels....

>pic Roof wedged with box<

Locate the drainage tray and drainage point....

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Then it is just a case on using your trombone cleaner in the drainage point/tube and shove it down there pushing down and up until you are through the tube to the bottom and all clear, do both sides, remove the wedge box you used and latch the roof back up job, done , smile start her up and go and enjoy :handgestures-thumbup:

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>pic of drainage tube exit point underneath <

[b] rodding a MK 4 to follow[/b]


2) The next set of pictures will show you where the sill drainage points are....

Front drivers side from the front with cable ties to help show you where they are and also where need to push a small screw driver or similar up in between the skins to keep them clear, they are easy to find (unless she as been repaired and welded up) front and rear , the raised blisters are on either side of the jacking points....

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and from underneath/behind..

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And the rear.....

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3) The scuttle is another water run off which runs off behind the front inner wing and which the leaves etc gets stuck behind the wing and body tub which rots down into a fine silt and stays wet for weeks and weeks into dry weather so carries on attacking the inner most of the untreated wing and tub which can bring on big repair costs. The best and easiest way to clean it, is to get a jet washer and blast from the door side where the wing hits the sill and then from the wheel arch towards the door back and forth until it runs clean , it is even easier if you undo the inner wheel arch cover at the back but there is no need to remove the whole thing, and on a personal note, if you know somewhere that does under sealing once clean get them to get in there or paint it with some good protection paint.

Here is one that shows you what lurks behind there slowly attacking the metal...

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The scuttle water run......

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Thanks to David for letting us play with his MK 2, Paula for letting us loose on her MK 1 , Ian for the pictures of the drainage sill points, and Craig for the MK 3 pics :handgestures-thumbup: :bow-yellow:
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This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.

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