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MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

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MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby flea » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:35 pm

After removing the caliper from the car you'll first need to remove the dust bolt that covers the adjuster shown here.
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With an Allen key unwind the adjuster until you feel it has come away from the worm drive within the calliper. This is done by turning in a clockwise direction.
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Once this is done then you can pull the piston from the housing. If it's a bit stubborn then you can shift it by using an air hose as shown below. If you do this make sure your hand is ready to stop the piston from shooting out & getting damaged. I found short blasts were best.
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Then remove the dust rubber cover.
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Now remove the seal within the chamber.
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Now you'll need a long slim pair of cir-clip pliers to remove the cir-clip inside the chamber .
I tried to find a pair but couldn't find any. So a little tip. If you buy the Draper cheap ones then you can drill two additional holes which makes them long enough to reach the clip.
Before I drilled.
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And after, showing the two new holes. This will make things a lot easier.
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Now remove the cir-clip at the bottom of the chamber which holds the worm drive in place.
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Remove the worm drive.
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Also the little pin located behind it.
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Now you can remove the hand brake lever.
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Now you'll need to wash & clean out the calliper body including all the areas where the new rubbers are to go. I finished by blowing the unit out with an air-gun just to make sure there was no debris left at all.
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Also clean the piston & other moving parts. I used flour paper as this will not damage any of the surfaces.
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Also remove the rubber on the end of the worm drive.
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Now you have cleaned everything you are ready to put back together. Note: these are new rubbers and not the original old ones.
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Fit the new seal to the end of the worm drive.
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Also the inner seal.
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Make sure its sitting correctly.
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Remove the seal where the hand brake shaft passes through the calliper body.
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Clean this area up. Put a little grease on the new seal.
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And push firmly into place.
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Put some grease on the end of the worm drive like so. I don't like to put grease on any of the parts that are in contact with brake fluid so as not to contaminate the fluid.
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Also the little pin that goes in the end.
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Also grease the shaft of the hand brake lever.
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Then push the lever shaft back into the body.
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Then, with the pin also greased placed at the end of the worm drive, place it back within the calliper body like so. If you move the hand brake lever it will become obvious where the little pin is to be located as there is a little notch in the shaft of the hand brake lever.
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You will know when its in the correct place by moving the hand brake lever. This will move the worm drive in & out. Then replace the cir-clip.
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Rather than using brake calliper lubricant to install the other rubbers I use the same brake fluid that I use in the braking system on the car. It works really well. So put a little on your finger & wipe it around the inner seal.
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Also put some brake fluid on the piston & place the dust cover rubber over the piston starting from the outer end. It will locate in the groove that it is meant to sit in but just go past this until it is at the other end of the piston. You need to have the section of the rubber that is to go within the calliper sticking over from the end of the piston as shown in the picture.
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Now feed the rubber into the groove in which it is intended to go. Start at the bottom & work your way around. You can make sure its OK by holding the rubber with your thumb & fore-finger then give it a little twist.
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Then grease up & replace the adjuster.
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Now turn the adjuster using an Allen key. Turning anti clockwise. You will probably have to put a little pressure on the piston until it locates & starts to wind in.
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Once wound fully in, the dust rubber will locate itself into the groove. Don't forget the brake fluid on the rubber & piston. It makes the job a lot easier.
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Now put a smear of grease on the slide pin rubbers & push into place.
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Now for replacing the spring to the hand brake lever. Place it over the center pillar like so with the straighter part behind the stop as shown.
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Now with a pair of pliers grip this section & pull it over the lever part like so.
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Put a little grease on the thread of the bleed screw & replace that.
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There you go. One refurbished calliper.
Attachments
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Eunos 1.6 special 1989 with a few added extras
Eunos 1991 1.6
Eunos 1990 1.6 project
Mk2 1999 1.8
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Re: Mk1 rear break caliper overhaul

Postby Mazda Mender » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:47 pm

Well done Royster, very good write up and plenty of pic's which makes it easier to follow for owners who are unsure.
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Re: Mk1 rear break caliper overhaul

Postby flea » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:56 pm

Cheers buddy. I'll do the front ones too
Eunos 1.6 special 1989 with a few added extras
Eunos 1991 1.6
Eunos 1990 1.6 project
Mk2 1999 1.8
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Re: Mk1 rear break caliper overhaul

Postby Speedy » Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:52 pm

Great write up Mr Flea :-)
1989 Just imported with 30,000 km, Maruha Four Pot calipers, 270mm disks, Rose jointed drop links, Uprated ARB's, Meister R Coilovers, Rota wheels, LSD, Zoom console, Maruha Alternator, Jenvey IRTB's, Megasquirt ECU

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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby The Captain » Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:16 am

Nice one mate. :handgestures-thumbup:
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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby flea » Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:27 am

Morning................Cheers mate :handgestures-thumbup:
Eunos 1.6 special 1989 with a few added extras
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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby Lazza » Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:50 am

Superb write-up! Looks like a perfect step-by-step guide to me, almost idiot-proof! :handgestures-thumbup:

A couple of minor things I'd like to see added is just at the top, which tools & fluids you are using. Just a basic list of DOT 4.0 brake fluid, calliper grease (make the point that copper grease isn't calliper grease), 13mm spanner etc.

Also a quick question. The cir-clip pliers; it looks like you are just using standard pin long-nose cir-clip pliers so how does drilling holes in them help?
Lazza

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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby flea » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:15 pm

Good point Lazza. The reason for the additional holes was it makes the reach longer otherwise you can't get hold of the circlip. I'll check out what i wrote & see that it makes sence
Eunos 1.6 special 1989 with a few added extras
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Eunos 1990 1.6 project
Mk2 1999 1.8
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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby flea » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:16 pm

Lazza i have explained the reason already???
Eunos 1.6 special 1989 with a few added extras
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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby flea » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:19 pm

Does anyone know what size the alen key it is?. Mine are not marked, i just found one that fitted
Eunos 1.6 special 1989 with a few added extras
Eunos 1991 1.6
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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby Lazza » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:27 pm

Yes you did explain but I don't understand how drilling holes in it makes the reach longer... maybe I'm being a bit simple :teasing-tease:
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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby flea » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:29 pm

Lazza wrote:Yes you did explain but I don't understand how drilling holes in it makes the reach longer... maybe I'm being a bit simple :teasing-tease:

By drilling the new holes it just extends the nose of the pliers enough to reach the circlip. Without doing this you can't get hold of it. I tried everywhere to get some that would do the job so reolized by doing this it worked fine :handgestures-thumbup: Now has the penny dropped :whistle:
Eunos 1.6 special 1989 with a few added extras
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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby Lazza » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:32 pm

Nope. I don't see how the holes extend the reach...
I just tried to repost the 2 pictures here but can't seem to do it.
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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby Lazza » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:35 pm

Ah! Just worked it out! It's not just holes drilled in the pliers, you are remounting the pivot! That makes sense but I have to say, the pictures & text don't describe that at all. It reads and looks like you just take the pliers, drill holes in them and that somehow, magically extends the reach!
Lazza

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Re: MK1 Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

Postby flea » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:36 pm

imagine how they are being used. The handle part gets in the way & catches the rim of the piston. When you drill the new holes it makes the handles further away from the end of the pliers therefore it don't catch the rim of the piston & you can still open & close them to get hold of the circlip. Shall i draw a picture? :laughing-rolling:
Eunos 1.6 special 1989 with a few added extras
Eunos 1991 1.6
Eunos 1990 1.6 project
Mk2 1999 1.8

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