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Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

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Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Doogledog » Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:53 pm

By Mazda-mender junior and mazda-mender
WARNING - this is long but if you follow it step-by-step you'll have sorted your brakes :) It's easier than it looks!!

Brake Stripdown and Rebuild....

Once this procedure has been done, there will be no need to remove so much at the next service, just a wipe clean re-grease,re-fit and bleed off which will be 1/4 of the time, and this should save you £100's on service costs and re-placing calipers over your ownership.

Safety Precautions
ALWAYS use axle stands to support the car - NEVER work on a car supported by just a jack

If only raising one end of your car ensure the other wheels are appropriately chocked
Do not breathe in or blow brake dust

PLEASE BE AWARE OF THE WARNINGS IN RED FONT
*******WARNINGS*********
To take note of


Tools and other items required
copper grease
red rubber grease
10mm, 14mm, 17mm ring spanners
10mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets and appropriate ratchet
breaker bar
4mm allen key
long-nosed pliers
old screwdriver or similar
flat file and / or wire brush
axle stands
rags
Second person’s foot to help with bleeding up,fresh brews and dead pig butties


Front Brakes

Chock the rear wheels, Loosen wheel nuts and jack up the front of Mx/roadster, and support the Mx/roadster on axle stands (note it is easier if you raise the whole front end rather than just one side)

Image

Remove road wheel and put on the floor under the middle of the sill under the mx/roadster

Image

Depending on which wheel you are working on, turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction i.e. if working on right wheel, turn wheel to the left. This allows more access to the rear of the caliper

Image

using the breaker bar, crack the caliper lower mounting bolt, remove the bolt and put to one side.

Lever the caliper up and remove the release springs from the calipers as you do this (note if you remove the caliper the springs may fly off, taking the pads with them, which needs to be avoided if the pads are to be re-used). remove the pads.

With the caliper in the raised position, slide the caliper upper mounting bolt. Taking care not to stretch the flexible brake line, put the caliper on the lower wishbone, out of the way for now.

Image

Using breaker bar and 14mm socket, crack the two bolts securing the brake carrier. Remove and put to one side. Remove the carrier.

Image

Remove disc if desired (a good idea if you've not looked before, to check condition). Refit disc (or new one)

The carrier should have 4 metal clips on which the pads slide - these need to be removed, making a note of the position and orientation of each one.

Having removed the metal clips, use the file to lightly file the recesses (note it is easiest to file across both at the same time). Alternatively use a wire brush. This will remove the surface rust, which will have built up over time.

Focussing on the hole where the caliper upper mounting bolt goes, use an old screwdriver to clean out any old grease, being careful not to pierce the rubber (note it is easiest to wrap an old rag around the end before beginning). Get out as much of the old grease as possible. Do the same with the hole for the lower bolt.

Using red rubber grease, grease both the upper and lower holes.

Image

Image

Image

Clean each slide clip to remove as much of the surface rust as possible. This is best done with an old flat-headed screwdriver, or a wire brush . This allows the pads to slide more freely in the carrier.

Image

Return each slide clip to the carrier, taking care to use copper grease on the back of each to minimize rust build up on the carrier and therefore ensure the pad has as much room to slide as possible.

Image

Return the carrier to the car, using the same bolts as removed. Ensure you put copper grease on each bolt to prevent them seizing up. Tighten with a 14mm ratchet and use breaker bar / torque wrench to tighten.Use copper grease on the head of the nuts to protect.

No matter whether you are reusing the pads or fitting new ones, take each pad and file the section that fits into the slider clips (the bits that stick up at each end). This is to remove rust build up / paint and will ensure the pads slide freely in the carrier.

Image

Image

Image

Using copper grease on the filed areas which acts as a lube and also to prevent rust build up leading to a lack of movement, , replace the pads on the carrier. Be sure to use more copper grease on the backs of the pads to prevent squeaks.

Image

Image

Image

Check the condition of the top slider pin (as attached to the caliper). Wipe with a rag. If rust build up is evident, lightly file / emery paper / wirewool to remove.

Image

Image

Image

If fitting new pads you will need to push back the piston in the caliper. This is best done using a wind back tool or a G clamp, that can be purchased from ebay (other sources available).

Image

Slide caliper back onto carrier and into position.

Check release spring condition and slightly pull wider to offer more resistance.

Carefully pivoting up the carrier, return the springs onto the pads. To prevent the pads falling free of the carriers, you need to do this with the caliper slightly holding the tops of the pads.

With springs on place, return the caliper to its usual position.

Image
Image]

Image

Check the condition of the caliper lower mounting bolt. Wipe clean and check for rust build up. If evident, lightly file / emery paper / wire wool to remove, taking care not to flatten.

Smear copper grease around the thread of the bolt and return to the caliper.

Tighten using a rachet and tighten with breaker bar / torque wrench, taking care not to over tighten.

Crack the bleed nipple with a small ratchet (standard size is 8mm but aftermarket sizes may be different) we have had 7mm,8mm(being OE)9mm and even a 10mm?.

Bleed brakes - best done with two people but single-person bleed kits are available

IMPORTANT WARNING
********Foot note:-*******
If you you are bleeding brakes or are changing a caliper on a Mx/roadster that is fitted with the ABS system, you most take care not to get a air lock into the ABS pump, as this will turn into a nightmare to remove the air from it.


Take the opportunity to check general condition of suspension parts, particularly the bushes etc. You may like to spray all rubbers and steering rack gaiter ,bushes with a silicone spray (halfords own is the best we have found, in a yellow tin!).

Job done!

Image

-------------------------------------------------------------------------


Rear Brakes

Chock the front wheels ,loosen wheel nuts and jack up front of car, and support the car on axle stands (note it is easier if you raise the whole rear end rather than just one side)

Remove road wheel and put on the floor under the middle of the sill under the mx/roadster as an extra safety precaution

Image

Inside the car, remove the plastic cover from the handbrake and release the handbrake. This will reveal the hex shaft through which you can see the handbrake cable. Use a large flat-headed screwdriver to turn this anticlockwise to slacken. Take care not to undo too much or else the cable will drop out of the bottom.

Image

Back in the wheel arch... With 14mm ring spanner, remove the plug bolt from the rear of the caliper (you should be able to see two bolts at the back - one connects the hand brake, the other is the plug bolt).

Using the 4mm allen key turn the handbrake adjuster on the back of the caliper anticlockwise until it stops. This should pull the piston back in the caliper. You should not use a caliper wind-back tool.

Remove the release springs from the brake pads.

You next need to undo the caliper lower slider pin. This is located behind a black plastic cover, which will need to be removed. This can sometimes prove tricky but is easy enough if you use the long-nosed pliers on it. Place to one side.

Using a 10mm ring spanner, undo the slider pin (this may need a whack with a small hammer). You may be able to get a ratchet in, but the method above is easiest!! Remove pin and place to one side.

Pivot the caliper up and remove. Note this may feel tricky due to the handbrake cable but it will go. Rest on the lower wishbone out of the way, taking care not to stretch the flexible brake hose.

Remove the slide clips from the carrier, noting their orientation. Place to one side.

Remove the carrier using a 14mm ring spanner and a small hammer to crack them.

Image

Remove brake disc if desired (good idea to check condition if you've not looked before). Refit brake disc or fit new one.


Using the file, file down the carrier where the slide clips are located. Alternatively use a wire brush. This will remove some of the surface rust.

Image

Return the carrier to the car, ensuring that the 14mm bolts are coated in copper grease to prevent them seizing. Tighten with ring spanner and hammer (or torque wrench if you can get it in there then all the better).

Working on the caliper, start by looking at the handbrake arm. Check that it moves freely on its pivot under hand pressure. If it does not move freely the first step is to remove the coiled spring from the handbrake arm. This is done using the long-nosed pliers. Once it is removed check for movement. If it is reluctant to do so a few taps with a hammer may release it. This, in combination with penetrating fluid (Plusgas etc.) may free up the arm. If it is stuck solid, it's new caliper time.

Assuming the arm can move, use copper grease to prevent seizing. Refit the coiled spring. Use more copper grease to protect the arm.

Image

Image


Using an old screwdriver wrapped on a rag, clean the upper and lower holes on the caliper where the slider pins are located. Remove as much old grease and grime as possible.

Using your little finger, put red rubber grease into the upper and lower holes. Take care not to put too much in as doing so will make refitting the caliper difficult.

Image

smear the piston centre with copper grease and the rubber seal with red rubber grease to prevent it drying out and subsequently splitting. Return the caliper to the lower wishbone nice and safe.

Image

Clean each slide clip with either a small wire brush or an old flat-headed screwdriver. This will remove any surface rust and enable the pads to slide more freely.

Using copper grease on the back of each clip, refit them to the carrier. The grease will act as a 'glue' and hold the clips in place whilst you prepare the pads.

Image

***Please note..... any grease or oil's will need to be removed from the surface of the brake disks or pads if any gets on them with brake cleaner or similar***

Image

Taking each pad in turn, use a file or wire brush to clean the recess where they fit on the carrier. This will remove surface rust.

Image

Using copper grease in the recess of each pad, refit onto the carrier. Remember to put copper grease on the back of each pad to prevent squeaks.

Image

Image

Image

Slide the caliper onto the top slider pin and pivot down into position.

Check the condition of the bottom slider pin. Wipe clean. If evidence of surface rust is found, lightly file / emery paper / wire wool to remove - taking care not to flatten.

Refit the bottom slider pin and tighten with 10mm ring spanner and hammer or torque wrench if you can get it to fit!

Pull release spring (M-spring) slightly to widen and refit.

Image

Image


With the 4mm allen key, adjust the handbrake. Turn clockwise until it stops. Now turn anticlockwise until pad just catch the disc (usually 1/4 to 1/2 a turn but every car is different).

Refit plug bolt with 14mm spanner.

Bleed brakes.....

IMPORTANT WARNING
********Foot note:-*******
If you you are bleeding brakes or are changing a caliper on a Mx/roadster that is fitted with the ABS system, you most take care not to get a air lock into the ABS pump, as this will turn into a nightmare to remove the air from it.


Take opportunity to check condition of suspension components and spray all rubbers with silicone lubricant.

Refit wheel.

Repeat on other side.

Once both sides are down return to inside of car. Pull on handbrake, counting the number of clicks as you go. The number should be between 7 and 9.

If not, turn the hex shaft attached to the handbrake to tighten the slack. Keep repeating until a suitable number of clicks and feel of handbrake is appropriate.

Check wheels are locked with handbrake on and spin freely with handbrake off. Once you're happy, lower car to ground.

Tighten all wheels nuts.

JOB DONE! Congratulate yourself and go for a test drive with a big smile on your face :-D
Any questions....please feel free to ask
Eunos Roadster VR-Ltd comb B - lots of mods
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Mazda Mender » Mon Apr 15, 2013 9:22 pm

Edited and added pic's, By wayne and chris, feel free to check over chaps
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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flea
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby flea » Mon Apr 15, 2013 9:40 pm

gets a :handgestures-thumbup: from me. Well done
Eunos 1.6 special 1989 with a few added extras
Eunos 1991 1.6
Eunos 1990 1.6 project
Mk2 1999 1.8
MOTMotorsport
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby MOTMotorsport » Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:55 am

You have a picture of a calliper when you are talking about the carrier and also it is on the bench when it should be very much attached to the car.

If you talk about a torque wrench, which you do at the end, you really ought to then give a torque figure else what it "tight"?
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Lazza
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Lazza » Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:10 am

A couple of pictures showing how the springs attach to the pads would be helpful, especially the front pads & springs as it always causes confusion as to how they fit.
Good write-up though. We need some additional pictures of the Sport brakes as although they are very similar there are some slight differences, particularly the slide-pins on the fronts.
Lazza

2001 Mk2.5 MX5 1.8 Sport
Hard Dog Deuce
GAZ Gold Pro
Mk3 seats
17” OZ Racing Superturissmo wheels (for the toad)
15” Rota Circuit 10 wheels (for track use)
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Mazda Mender » Tue Apr 23, 2013 12:16 pm

Keep the feed back coming, i'll sort a add on for the large/sports brakes, there are a load of pictures, and i know that it would of taken a age adding these so far by Chris.
Springs is a must, as i get them here fitted wrong.
Nick, we'll find torque settings and add, can not remember the last time i used one.
Ref torque settings... off, loose,finger tight, tight , FT, FT grrrr, stop or snap ;0)
We'll sort it buddy ;0)
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Mazda Mender » Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:59 pm

1.8cc front brakes lift off springs location....
DSC00145.jpg
DSC00145.jpg (66.74 KiB) Viewed 12993 times

DSC00143.jpg
DSC00143.jpg (57.84 KiB) Viewed 12993 times


1.6cc are in the same place but the springs are smaller.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Mazda Mender » Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:02 pm

The full on man set of torque tools for every setting ......
DSC00148.jpg
DSC00148.jpg (116.28 KiB) Viewed 12992 times


And just to prove that i do have a full girlie set......

DSC00149.jpg
DSC00149.jpg (81.87 KiB) Viewed 12992 times

M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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Lazza
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Lazza » Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:30 am

mazda-mender wrote:The full on man set of torque tools for every setting ......
DSC00148.jpg

:laughing-rolling:
Lazza

2001 Mk2.5 MX5 1.8 Sport
Hard Dog Deuce
GAZ Gold Pro
Mk3 seats
17” OZ Racing Superturissmo wheels (for the toad)
15” Rota Circuit 10 wheels (for track use)
Ghostrider
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Ghostrider » Mon May 13, 2013 3:47 pm

Fabulous write-up. Making good use of this at the moment :text-thankyouyellow: :clap: :handgestures-thumbup:
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Mazda Mender
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Mazda Mender » Mon May 13, 2013 5:03 pm

Any problems ...shout.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
RedRuss
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby RedRuss » Sun Jun 02, 2013 10:17 pm

Hi Wayne, thanks for the guide.
I have hit a snag with the rear calipers though, in that the piston wind back grub screw doesn't retract the pistons? It's the same on both sides.
The rim of the piston looks pretty old and rusty, but trying to peek under the piston rubber dust cover wasn't conclusive. I'd guess it might be quite crappy in there, judging by how rusty the 18 year old originals were.
I'm pushed for time, and was going to buy refurb calipers from brake engineering for about £60/side. It's a shame, but the rebuild kit plus pistons isn't much less and I could do with the half day it would take me to refurb both sides.

But is there a quick-win for this? Something I can do to fix it without a strip down to fiddle with the retraction mechanism inside?

Cheers, Russ
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Mazda Mender » Sun Jun 02, 2013 11:06 pm

They do sound a bit fudged, but there is something you can try on the old units, ring me tomorrow buddy.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettling,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special **gone**
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
Popup
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby Popup » Mon Jun 03, 2013 5:45 pm

Impressive !!!
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Re: Brake Stripdown and rebuild WITH PICTURES

Postby RedRuss » Tue Jun 04, 2013 8:00 am

Thanks for your help Wayne!

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