Project 2 into 1, Mk1 Auto to Manual.

[Zebbysebby]

I recently wrote of my intention to convert an MOT’d rot free but very rough 1991 MK1 Eunos Auto to a 5 speed manual using parts from a rotten low mileage 1991 UK MX5. I also asked which Engine I should use and the conclusion was to stick with the original. The Eunos spent 15 years in Japan before coming here. It was suggested that I create a guide to the conversion but having looked at the guides already available I don’t believe I can complete one to the same standard however I hope this will be, to some extent, helpful to someone in the future. Also, I was already part way into the teardown and hence no photographs were taken early on and also there are some other repairs I want to do such as replace the damaged drivers door with its Duck taped and cable tied window.

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My main plan is to take two cars, each with their own issues, and make one good car. It won’t be perfect, I’m not willing to spend at any cost. I have several other classics and always spend more than they are worth. I will this time try and keep the final cost below £1500. The Car will have Steel wheels and should resemble this.

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My Eunos is BRG in colour with a Tan Hood and interior in poor condition, water had got in and soaked the Carpet but not had time to damage the floor or ECU. I decided to swop it for the perfect Black interior In the MX5. This meant that my Dash was removed thus making it easier to access the Firewall. This also means that I will have part of the manual cars wiring loom fitted within the dash which shouldn’t cause any issues. For anyone who decides to do this job and remove the Dash, I would refer you to a guide available in the Workshop Manual Section. There is also a three part guide on ‘YouTube‘ by Jeff Lin entitled ‘Miata Dash Refinish’. If you watch this Video I would say to remember to unplug all the cables behind the Dash including those on the Heater side before trying to remove it. Also, unbolt the Handbrake and fold it down, slide the auto box selector all the way back and remove the handle in order to give more space and to pull the Dash out square/horizontal until it clears the plastic windscreen pillar covers which you want to avoid scratching.

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If you decide to remove the Carpet for some reason, be aware of a plastic fixing under the Heater module. I found it impossible to pry off so simply grasped the Carpet both sides and yanked it forward. One other issue I had with the Eunos was the Instrument Binnacle, I removed the Screws and pulled the unit forward causing both forward clips to break off including the smaller rear central clip. In the MX5 I removed the Screws then inserted a long Screwdriver up and under the Dash to pry the two forward Clips against the internal Steel Tube. Both are easily accessed with the front panel removed. It may have been the years in a warmer climate made the plastic brittle.

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If the Dash has not been removed, you will need to remove the Centre Console, this is fairly simple and is held on with a few screws. There are three plugs to be disconnected for the power windows, Overdrive and ashtray light. Next, remove the Steering Wheel, Ignition Cowl, unplug the instrument stalks, release the cable tie holding the wiring, (no need to cut it off) and disconnect the power cable to the Ignition. Undo the two 12mm bolts holding the upper section of the Steering Column and the two 12mm nuts holding the lower section of the Steering Column and allow the Column to drop down. You might as well remove the instrument Stalks to avoid any damage. This unit is secured by a locking ring with a Phillips head, once loosened lift the plastic tab at the rear of the unit and pulling the entire unit towards you. The black wire and device resting on the steering column in the photo is my aftermarket immobiliser now wired out due to an intermittent fault.

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The Park Interlock cable running from the Auto selector to the Ignition lock can be disconnected and withdrawn. This cable prevents the Key being removed if not in Park. The lock mechanism should be tied back in the unlock position.

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In order to fit the Clutch pedal, the blanking plate in the Firewall needs to be removed. This is held on by a lightly fastened central white plastic rectangular nut and two 12mm nut and bolts studs on the inside of the car. Both blanking plate and internal frame which the Steering column connects to are removed.

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Remove the 14mm bolt securing the Automatic Transmission CPU, Naldec B64J. My intention is to unplug this however it could be secured out of the way. Secure the Clutch pedal bracket in place with one 12mm bolt inserted from inside the vehicle through the firewall and secured temporarily with a nut pending the fitting of the Clutch master cylinder. The Steering Column will need to be ‘manipulated’ out of the way to make space for the bracket to fit under it. Secure the top of the Clutch bracket with the 14mm nut which previously held the Auto Trans CPU. The Steering column will later be secured to this bracket.

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The wide Auto Brake pedal needs to be swapped for a standard pedal. You could replace the entire assembly but I decided just to replace the pedal which is held by three fixings, a stud held by a locking pin, a Spring, (both removed and re-attached with long nosed pliers) and a 17mm nut and bolt.

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This is where I am up to so far. I’ll continue this weekend whilst trying to watch the Rugby Six Nations. I’m part way through getting a new door on with the internals working properly but the damaged wing needs work for the Door to close properly. That said, I still hope to have made good progress within the next week.

[Mazda Mender]

Just a foot note for anyone thinking of doing this conversion....There is no need to remove the auto brake peddle it can be simply just cut down on the foot rest part and the rubber cover fitted over it.
M-m

[GlennyGills]

Looking good

[Zebbysebby]

Part 2. PLEASE NOTE THIS RELATES TO A RIGHT HAND DRIVE CAR.

Several weeks have passed, progress has been made but I’m not finished. I decided to stick with the original Auto engine, I knew the car was badly maintained, a plate welded to the rear silencer, new brake pads on one wheel only and ‘Part Worn’ painted on the tyres is usually a sign of low cost maintenance and I knew it needed flushing out as it had been boiling over leaving rusty stains but I didn’t expect to find no thermostat after the previous owner had a new Water Pump and belt fitted so I suspect a problem still exists. The car drove 400 miles home with a slight fluctuation on the temp gauge but never went high. Another job to be looked at later.

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I removed the required bits from my ‘parts car’. I began with a MT Gearbox inc’ Slave cylinder and metal/ rubber pipework, Flywheel with new Spigot bearing, 3 piece Clutch, PPF, PPF/ gearbox bracket, Pedal assembly, Master Cylinder and rigid pipework to connect to the Slave Cylinder pipework though there may be an alternative to all this pipework using a braided hose to connect directly to the Slave Cylinder from the Master Cylinder.

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You may simply source these parts or like me purchase an entire Donor vehicle. The removal of the Gearbox is widely covered on YouTube regarding the replacement of the Clutch. There are also videos on this transplant procedure but some aspects are questionable.

One video said to use the manual car ECU and propshaft. I’ve also heard of the downpipe from the manifold being different in the automatic. I’ll find out in due course what exact parts are needed. I have measured the propshaft and both Auto and manual are the same. This same video showed the rear inner lower lug being hammered off in order to remove the PPF but this for me wasn’t required on the manual car. It simply rotated out to the side and lowered off.

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Another source of information can be found in the following links:

https://www.miata.net/garage/clutch/

https://www.miata.net/garage/auto_2_5_speed.html

The most frustrating part for me of the MT Gearbox removal using axle stands and without the aid of a lift was gaining access to the bell housing bolts and having enough room to lever the bolts undone. I would advise removing the Clutch Master Cylinder first and the removal of the Exhaust manifold with the down-pipe attached. The Gearbox can be removed with the down-pipe in place but for ease of removal and gaining access to the bell-housing bolts it’s worth doing. I found gaining access to the three bolts which secure the down-pipe to the manifold difficult and they were on very tight hence the reason to removal the entire unit. Even on a rusted out vehicle I found the eight securing bolts on the manifold came off with ease and a new gasket is cheap. My other advice would be to get the car as high as possible whilst remaining secure and support the front of the engine to aid separation and keep the Engine/ Gearbox unit level as once the PPF, Power Plant Frame / Brace is disconnected, vertical movement is possible and the engine will likely tilt. I used a trolley Jack to support the box as it was pulled out, obviously being level is key to a clean separation.

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Working under the car it is hard to see and understand how the wiring is fixed. Quite simply the two blue cables are the neutral switch, the two red wires with the bullet connectors are the reverse switch. Some people advise changing the old style reverse switch for a new green version. It’s known that the old switch can fail locking the car in reverse gear. These cables are held in place by a thin metal strap which simply unfolds.

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If pulling the MT with a trolley jack, this is the middle point.

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Removing the gear stick secured by three 10mm bolts makes pulling the box easier. Once out, remove the oil to be replaced with new later. I will also be fitting a new shift boot.

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AUTO BOX REMOVAL.

I managed to raise the car to give me 450mm underneath. It could go higher but I felt safe at this height.

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Inside the car, remove the four bolts securing the selector shift and release the locking pin securing the shifter to the selector rod. The rod can be lowered to the bottom of the Gearbox in order to lock the diff whilst you unscrew the 14mm bolts. You can keep locking and unlocking from under the car whilst rotating the propshaft to remove the four bolts.

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On first examination underneath I tried to understand what had to be disconnected on the gearbox. Lying on my back with a torch under an Oil soaked Gearbox is bad enough but there are quite a few pipes and wires and it’s difficult to see where they go so I took this one stage at a time.

I started by draining the Gearbox Oil. There is no drain point on the NA Auto box so the sump pan needs to be removed and drained. 14 X 10mm bolts and messy. You could drain this at the end before pulling the propshaft because it continues to drip at all the dis-connected points for a considerable time.

In my photos the Brake Master Cylinder has been removed, this was simply to replace a faulty unit. Don’t secure the Clutch Master Cylinder in place until the end, you’ll need this space for access.

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Remove the Airflow Meter and Air-box, two 12mm bolts, one 12mm nut, unscrew the jubilee clip and release the metal clasp to the electrical supply cable. Remove the 5 X 10mm nuts to the exhaust heat shield.

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Remove the Exhaust Catalyst followed by the down-pipe securing bracket and 8 X 14mm manifold bolts.

Removal of the Oil Lines.

Starting at the Radiator I removed the two rubber hoses which are secured by hose clamps connecting the 9mm tails from the Radiator to the rigid pipes running to the Gearbox along the drivers side of the Engine and passing over the bell-housing and continuing along the passenger side. Along the entire pipe run there are three 10mm bolts securing both pipes and one nut on the Gearbox. There’s only a small amount of Oil inside the pipe to be drained but keep the pan in place until the two 19mm Banjo bolt connectors are disconnected on the Gearbox.

The pipes are cable tied simply to keep them pointing down whilst draining.

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First connector drivers side front.

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Second connector drivers side bell-housing.

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Third connector passenger side bell-housing which also secures the Transmission modulator hose running to the rear of the cylinder head. The pipe running vertically is the dipstick and the rubber hose at the top is a heater hose.

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Final connector is a nut on the Gearbox.

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There are two 19mm Banjo bolts to be disconnected. Both on the passenger side of the box, the first is shown above.

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Due to wiping of all photos and repeated freezing up I’ll have try starting another post.

[Zebbysebby]

Disconnect the Transmission modulator pipe where it enters the rear of the cylinder head. Unbolt the transmission dipstick which is secured to a bracket by a 10mm nut. This nut can just be seen in the photo behind the rubber hose, disconnect with a 10mm socket on a long extension. The rubber hose is simply pulled away from the manifold and will need to be plugged later.

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The transmission modulator is the round device in the centre with the rubber pipe coming out of it turning towards the engine.

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I also removed the complete exhaust and heat shield due to a replacement exhaust being fitted and rust proofing but you shouldn’t need to do this.

There are six electrical connectors on the Drivers side. I managed to release five of mine, listen for the click, but the second one up seemed gummed up with oil and dirt so I’ll cut it off on the engine side of the switch .

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There are two cable ties on the passenger side of the gearbox.

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REMOVAL OF TORQUE CONVERTOR BOLTS FROM FLEXPLATE.

WARNING.....This part needs to be done with care. I did hear of someone damaging a bolt during this process and I too did the same thing. Only with the aid of heat could I remove the bolts.

Tools needed. Propane/ Mapp Gas & torch, pry bar, 21mm socket and bar. Sturdy 14mm Spanner with a larger ringer spanner to interlock with.

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Remove the plate at the base of the bell-housing held on by two 10mm bolts.

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Inside, rotate the flexplate teeth until you see a 14mm nut. There are four of them to be removed.

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To stop the Crankshaft rotating, place a 21mm socket on the crank nut. My cars undertray has been cut off so I could have used a long bar resting on the ground at the drivers side but I used a short bar tucked under the AirCon Compressor with another bar locking it in place. I suspect most of these auto cars will be a Eunos with AirCon.

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On my first attempt to remove one of these nuts I noticed how slack the 14mm Spanner felt. A 13mm was too small, I wondered if an imperial sized ring spanner might fit better but I had none to try. I ended up managing to twist the first nut into a spiral shape. I then heated the three remaining nuts with Mapp Gas for around a minute on each one and they came off but still needing quite a bit of force.

The first nut was spiralled to begin with, a few more attempts to get it off simply rounded it off. Yes, it looks like the main seal is leaking.

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In order to remove the rounded off nut I found that standard sized Mole grips were too big. I bought some long reach US PRO Vice/ Mole grips for the job, again I heated the nut and the grips snapped. It then became a two man job to chisel the nut whilst one person held the flexplate with a lever whilst shinning a torch in the aperture. After about 30 hits it came loose. PITA!!!


REMOVAL OF BELL HOUSING BOLTS.

Now, the most frustrating part and I would say and more difficult on the Automatic than the manual. Again, I would advise removal of the exhaust manifold with down pipe. Access to the passenger side of the engine is fine, the problem is the drivers side, especially bolt number 2, (see diagram). The issue is the bulkhead pipework, (mine has aircon), cabling and Auto box filler/ dipstick. The best you can do is with what tools you have on the day. ROTATE THE AUTO DIPSTICK OUT OF THE WAY TOWARDS THE DRIVERS SIDE OR BETTER STILL REMOVE THE DIPSTICK AND PULL THE PIPE OUT. IT IS JOINED HALF WAY DOWN BY A RUBBER ‘O’ RING. TIE THE TRUNK CABLE BACK WITH SOME ROPE FOR YOUR OWN SANITY. I used a breaker bar on all bolts.

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Bolt number 1, 17mm socket on a long breaker bar. I removed this bolt last just prior to dropping the box. I used a socket and small ratchet to do so.

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Bolt number 2, 14mm socket on a breaker bar to loosen the nut. I tried a variety of tools to undo this from the top and underneath but ended up using a 14mm spanner coming down from 12 O’clock and slowly loosening until finger tight/ loose. It is possible that placing a 14mm socket on this bolt then using long 3/4” extension bars with two swivel joints might have worked as too a number of extension bars in series running to the back of the gearbox may also have worked. Like I say, you work with the tools you have.

Bolt number 3, 14mm socket with swivel on a long extension.

Bolt number 4, (14mm) & 5, (17mm) starter motor. Both have nuts needing a spanner placed on them, can be accessed from the top, wheel arch or from underneath. Fairly easy to access and remove.

Bolt number 6, 7, 8 and 9 are all 17mm and shouldn’t cause a problem. Bolt number 10 is again 17mm but a longer length than the others requiring a socket with swivel and extension bar.

Bolt number 11, 17mm. Free’d off with a socket and breaker bar, the heater hose restricts movement but gives enough to release it. You may wish to remove the heater hoses. I had to slowly undo with a spanner.

REMOVAL OF THE PPF/ BRACE.

To support and drop the Gearbox I cobbled together a wooden support in order that it lay flat once the trolley jack was put under it. I’ll put a drawing on later with some measurements for anyone who’s interested.

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A support was placed under the front crank and all but the top bell housing bolts were removed.

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I first unbolted the 10mm earth clamp and released the attached cabling clipped along the PPF by pushing an 8mm socket onto the rear of the plastic clip to close it and pry off with a screwdriver. They should come off without breaking.

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I then undone the two rear 17mm bolts, spray penetrating Oil into the nuts/ studs at the top and re-inserted the bolts part way in order to hammer the bolt head and pop out the nut/studs. They should undo fairly easily after this and then remove the bolts.

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Remove the two front 17mm bolts and push the PPF aside. Unlike in the manual car, there was not enough room to swing it down and out so I pushed/ levered the Gearbox/ engine unit aside to drop the PPF. I then found that unlike the manual car it did not want to drop out at the rear. A few light hits with a soft mallet and vice grips on the lower stud to work the stud back and forth freed it off. The cable was then tied back.

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At this point I could see the difference between the Auto and manual car PPF, the shorter being for the Auto.

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Can no longer load photos, moving to another post.

[Zebbysebby]

There is no gearbox bracket on the Auto, it will be needed for the manual box.

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Disconnect the speedo drive. I used an adjustable spanner to undo. It wasn’t on tight.

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DROPPING THE GEARBOX.

The Gearbox separated with no resistance. I pulled it back and slowly lowered it. I then had access to the 12mm nut on the drivers side which secures the electrical cable to the gearbox and which runs along the PPF to the rear of the car.

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On the passenger side, one of the oil supply lines was becoming caught up within cables to the gearbox and pulling the oil line down with the box. I had to try and feed the pipe back towards the engine as the gearbox moved away from the engine.

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Once fully down I slid the gearbox and wood support of the trolley jack and pulled it out. The 450mm I had was still enough to do this.

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I now have a number of jobs to do, replacement oil seals, de-greasing, underbody repairs, under-sealing and numerous others as well as the engine to look at and going through the brakes.

I also have to re-wire the reversing lights and neutral switch which should see the car only start in neutral and not in Gear. I have no plans to re-use the original harness or Clutch switch. The PPF will also need aligned.

http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55139

The installation of the manual box is the same as seen for a replacement clutch installation. Rather than cover this I’ll only update re any issues found.

There will be a further write up following completion. My intention is to have it back on the road in four weeks.

Apologies for any bad photos or lack of photos, it isn’t always easy to get a good shot or get a shot at all.

Please also note that I am a novice to the MX5, I have no prior knowledge on working on them so I don’t have the experience of approaching a job like this as an experienced enthusiast or professional so some aspects may appear in the wrong order to you which is fine but I hope it is of some use in the future.

[Mazda Mender]

Just a couple of things i would like to add please...


Be mindful that most of the link from miata.net on this subject is not great and guides towards a lot is unnecessary parts and work needing to be done as i am sure Zebbysebby as found out...https://www.miata.net/garage/auto_2_5_speed.html

When cracking the fly wheel free on the Auto there is a slightly easier way which I will cover...

The Auto engine can be used....

Alignment of the PPF frame is very important...

As is being done in this fab write up... the clutch switch is not needed or the manual ECU and loom etc, the Auto loom is fine to use...

The Auto down pipe is different because of the shape of the gearbox....

The cable to the ignition barrel also needs to be removed...

You can still use the Auto inlet and rad....

Bracing the engine for the split to be supported can be done by using a factory strut brace and straps, it also helps when lining the box back up to get it on a angle for easier joining together ....

Only the reverse and neutral switches need to be wired, everything else can be tucked away, personally i would use a small bag and seal the connections not needed up nice and water tight for no future issues with them being underneath.

Great write up buddy , thank you for sparing your time to post and help others

M-m

[Zebbysebby]

Thank you for your kind comments MM. As you will know from all the work you have done, such a write up is quite involved but I’ve read forums for years where other people have done the work to assist me so time to give something back.

I’d be keen to know more about the easier way to remove the Auto flywheel/ flexplate before I start that job.

I forgot to mention something about the cable to the ignition switch which was shown cable tied in my first post. I recall one person stating that the ignition can be unscrewed to remove and disable the auto switch inside. I chose not to do this but might have a look at what’s involved if it is possible.

I did have a photo of the exhaust down pipes which I didn’t use but will attach below. They are similar, I think the length differences is bit of an optical illusion as they measured about the same in length between their shortest points but you can see some difference in angles. My insulation has come off the manual car down pipe but in our climate up in the frozen north I doubt that’ll be an issue.

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[Mazda Mender]

I notice all your pics are URL you can drag and drop from a pc file and attach from any file including a smart phone which will help save some time on building your information guide, and make it a bit quicker.
Yes i know just how time consuming building these walk through's are ,some have taken 6 + months to get it all down, pics in the right places, and checked over for grammar etc before sharing to help others have a go and save money.
We are all reading so keep it coming as it is all locked in for good to help for many years to come ,unlike the throw away world of FB etc.
M-m

[Zebbysebby]

Yes, I had problems with the photos and still do. I’ve looked again at various ways to get photos from my ipad loaded onto a post without using the URL and can’t seem to do it.

[Mazda Mender]

From a smart phone etc.....
Click on attach( at the bottom to the left)....click on add file...click on where you want to add pics or files from...click on image or file...it will load to the board and then click on submit post ....

On the pc you can do the same or drag and drop from a file to your post and submit again...no need for a third party host..you can even add a PDF file if wished...


Both ways will add them as an attachment, if you want to add the pics to a specific spot on the thread/post then once up loaded ,click the cursor where you would like the pic/s to stick in the post and just click "PLACE INLINE" and the attachment will be added as a solid pic to that spot..

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The pics will self size when being added and once added can be clicked on to enlarge for better viewing.

I'll do some proper guides for everyone to use.
M-m

And just added as an attachment....

[fujikun]

brilliant write up and pics of a great subject, its great to see these things being done at minimum cost, you learn so much instead of throwing money at it.
really enjoyed the reading, good luck and well done

[Zebbysebby]

I think I’ve sussed it now. I think I tried something similar to begin with and the file sizes were too big so I found software to shrink them. Seems to work now. Thanks.

I’ve noticed today that I missed a pipe when the gearbox was pulled. It was a vent pipe which simply detached itself. The photo shows this with the fixing point. You can also see where the modulator plugs into the manifold. The gearbox continues to ooze oil, I thought it was drained but oil keeps coming out. I should have put a bag of cement on my list of tools required.

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Thanks also to Fujikun for your comments. The bill for the project so far is £1200 with all the parts I know to be needed. I will have parts to sell and the donor car to sell on but the body repair still has to be done. I’ll be happy if the final bill comes in below £2K.

Below is a drawing of the support I used with measurements. The issue with the auto box, unlike the manual is that it isn’t flat bottomed and you don’t want to damage the sump or control systems.

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When it finally empties I’ll photograph the mid point for weight so anyone using this method can see the exact place to support it.

[Zebbysebby]

Mid point for weight/ balance. If lowering on a jack, the area at the front of the Sump is ideal for balance.

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[Zebbysebby]

Another update. I’ve been delayed getting my stupidly complex Volvo through an MOT 4 weeks before it expired and just before the Government gave a six month extension. I’ve also been dealing with another car of mine which suffered a burst heat exchanger flooding the car with anti-freeze.

Working on the MX5 is a pleasure in comparison except that is when it’s a job on the drivers side of the engine. Most of my frustrations originate from that side. I’ve also had to remove the Alternator adjuster which was found to be seized when I was replacing the belts. For anyone needing to do this I found reaching up from underneath easier than from the top unless you have baby hands. Thankfully my under-tray had been removed. The bolts in question are in the middle of the first picture.

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One mistake I made was to lose the two Clutch Slave Cylinder bolts, hours lost searching for them. What I should have done was pushed them through cardboard with a written note like I did with the interior fixings and bell-housing bolts.

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A correction first to my earlier write up, the vacuum pipe from the Auto gearbox transmission modulator connects to the rear side of the inlet manifold and not the cylinder head as I previously stated.

I will also slightly amend my earlier information regarding the removal of the PPF from the Diff due to a problem encountered re-installing it. This will be explained later but the problem relates to the top lug nuts and how they pass through the PPF into the spacer.

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As stated previously I don’t intend to do a full guide on the installation of the Clutch/ Gearbox as these already exist but I will comment on anything of note.

Dealing with Electrics.

There are six electrical connectors on the Auto box however the only ones to concern yourself with are the bottom two, the Neutral Black plug and the Reverse Blue plug.

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NEUTRAL.

Black / White connected to Blue / Black.
Black / Yellow connected to Red / Black.

I suspect power from the fuse box enters via the Red/ Black and returns to the Starter/ solenoid via the Black/ Blue. The blue cables to the Neutral switch on the manual Gearbox are connected to the harness cables in series. It doesn’t matter which way around it goes.

REVERSE.

Red / Yellow connected to Red / Green.
Green / Yellow connected to Black / Yellow.

Power from the fuse box enters via the Black/ Yellow and returns to the reverse lights via the Red/ Green cable. The Red cables to the Reverse switch on the manual Gearbox are connected to the harness cable in series. Again, it doesn’t matter which way around it goes.

I decided to cut off the plugs on the harness, I can’t imagine anyone ever wanting to return the car to Automatic. I’m a big fan of Wynns pump canister gasket sealant which is safe on electronics/ electrics. Using closed end cap connectors, I inject some sealant, insert the wire and crimp the end ensuring the end is sealed.

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I decided to extend the Reversing lights cables from the harness to the gearbox by around 200mm approx and once the Gearbox was in, this turned out to be just right. The neutral wires from the Gearbox are already long enough. I cut the connectors off the manual car harness, joined/ soldered these to the harness and covered with heat shrink. I wrapped all of the unused wires onto the existing harness with black tape then covered with plastic conduit.

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By connecting the Neutral switch the car will only start in neutral and not in gear. You could simply connect both the Blue/ Black and Red/ Black wires together and the car will behave like a car would normally if you started in gear without your foot on the Clutch and kangaroo down the road.

I had intended to connect this Switch but decided not to and this is why.

The Auto is said to have a more powerful starter in order to turn the engine with attached flexplate and torque convertor. What I found was that a fairly thick cable was used to pass power via the Auto box to the starter motor/ solenoid. My Red/Black cable showed signs of Blackening otherwise known as Copper Oxide/ Copper Carbonate. It shows that the wire has become hot though I understand it is a bit more complicated than that. What concerned me was the difference in size between these wires and the wires running to and from the manual car gearbox. The concern being that the wires looked too puny to carry current to the Auto Starter so I have simply connected my Red/ Black and Blue/ Black wires together, (a bit more about this further down). Both my Van and my main car don’t use a neutral switch, I always dip the clutch before starting so I won’t notice anything different.

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Another option would be to wire in a simple switch immobiliser at this point if like me the aftermarket immobiliser has failed/ been removed from the car. There is a plug underneath on the chassis which is not present on the UK manual car and I don’t know its purpose.

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There is also a very slight difference between the Auto and Manual gasket plate in-between the Engine and Gearbox where the starter motor sits. The Auto plate has a plastic section inserted at the 7-8 O’clock position. I don’t know the reason for this.

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I decided to compare both the Auto and Manual starter motors. What I found was two identical motors with the same model number including that on the Solenoid. As previously mentioned, this car has been maintained cheaply. Maybe a manual car starter was put onto the car or maybe they do come with the same starter. It could be that a higher load is sent to the Starter hence the thicker cable found to and from the Auto box. Maybe M-m can comment.

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When I removed the Flexplate, the centre spigot detached from the flexplate. This is a non bearing type unlike that in the manual flywheel. Mine was stuck in the centre of the crankshaft but I was able to work this out by hand without the use of tools. ( SEE PICTURE BELOW ).

I also noticed the difference in lengths between the longer bolts which hold the Flywheel compared to the shorter bolts holding the much thinner flexplate. I decided to use the Manual car starter. I know it works well unlike that in the Auto car which sounded dry when spun up. Changing the starter at this point seems easier than to do it once the Gearbox is in place.

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At the Starter I unplugged the spade connector, detached the 12mm nut on the Solenoid along with the 14mm bolt which brackets the starter to the engine block, (+/- terminals to Battery already disconnected). One thing I noticed having replaced the Starter was that the threaded holes on the starter no longer lined up with the gasket plate. I backed off the 14mm bolt until it lined up and test fitted one of the bolts to ensure It doesn’t cause a problem later. The rear main seal has also been replaced, the old one was slacker than I expected and came out with no issue.

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Consideration should be given at this point to changing the heater manifold flow pipe which connects to the rear of the cylinder head, it’s easier done with the gearbox out simply because it’s awkward to get in to remove the hose clip. Also consider changing the Camshaft Angle Sensor ‘O’ ring which is known to leak.

Continued..........