What you put in, you'll get back ten fold
***** THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO THE SITE AND HELPING YOU,OTHERWISE IT CLOSES AND ALL THIS ON LINE GARAGE IS GONE FOR GOOD*****
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
2002 Arizona Rebuild
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
The finger sander is the best tool I've bought by far. I've used cheap belts and expensive Norton ones and the Norton last a bit longer, the biggest difference is the cheap ones the belt snaps whereas the others keep going but by that time the grit has mostly worn off anyway.
I have a joggler but I've tried to do it all butt joint to avoid moisture traps.. I don't know if this is valid concern tho?
I'm trying Wayne Just had other boring stuff to do - hopefully get a bit done this weekend!
I have a joggler but I've tried to do it all butt joint to avoid moisture traps.. I don't know if this is valid concern tho?
I'm trying Wayne Just had other boring stuff to do - hopefully get a bit done this weekend!
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Started cutting out some bits from the rear arch. Going to do the same thing as the other side but have remembered a few mistakes I made first time around. Try and make different mistakes this time
The rot on this inner arch is a bit worse than the other, part of it went past the seam
Access in this part is terrible so cut it out carefully with a dremel. Marked roughly where the flange needs to be
Bent up a new bit. I'm using 1mm like the other side - 0.6-0.7mm like the original is misery to work with. Used the stretcher to put the curve in
Cardboard template to butt join to the original
Transferred to the edge of the bent bit, put a couple of plug weld holes in and some primer
Welded it in. Couldn't dress the back part because the finger sander wouldn't fit in so cleaned it up, scuffed up with some paper and that'll do
Removed all the crust old inner arch from the back
And the front. Took out the sill end plate because it's easier to be able to put the new sill end plate in and out when making the new arch
Started making the new inner arch. If my bender was 500mm I'd be able to do it in one piece but it's not so i'll make it in two. Maked up on the panel where the sill end overlap needs to be an bent it up from there. Used the shrinker stretcher with hammer for small positive adjustements. Fits well
Like the other side, the inner arch is curved in both dimentions
Clamped it to the panel, clamped the panel in place then put some bits of scrap to hold it in the right position with tacks. Then i can release the clamps, remove panel and have much better access to work making up the new inner arch curvy bits
The rot on this inner arch is a bit worse than the other, part of it went past the seam
Access in this part is terrible so cut it out carefully with a dremel. Marked roughly where the flange needs to be
Bent up a new bit. I'm using 1mm like the other side - 0.6-0.7mm like the original is misery to work with. Used the stretcher to put the curve in
Cardboard template to butt join to the original
Transferred to the edge of the bent bit, put a couple of plug weld holes in and some primer
Welded it in. Couldn't dress the back part because the finger sander wouldn't fit in so cleaned it up, scuffed up with some paper and that'll do
Removed all the crust old inner arch from the back
And the front. Took out the sill end plate because it's easier to be able to put the new sill end plate in and out when making the new arch
Started making the new inner arch. If my bender was 500mm I'd be able to do it in one piece but it's not so i'll make it in two. Maked up on the panel where the sill end overlap needs to be an bent it up from there. Used the shrinker stretcher with hammer for small positive adjustements. Fits well
Like the other side, the inner arch is curved in both dimentions
Clamped it to the panel, clamped the panel in place then put some bits of scrap to hold it in the right position with tacks. Then i can release the clamps, remove panel and have much better access to work making up the new inner arch curvy bits
- Lumphammer
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- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Rust is wierd, this side is worse in some parts but better in others. I'd expected it to be totally fubar but some of the insides are not as bad
- Lumphammer
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Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Had a few weeks off doing other stuff. Made good progress on the next rear inner arch. Made it in a few sections like last time, started with a cardboard template to cut the steel to about the right size with a good amount of overhang. Bent by hand and fitted it in overhanging a lot
On the overhang marked where it needs to turn down to join the outer edge
Bend the pieces down, trimmed several times and then tacked in place
Check it hasn't moved
Weld a bit more to get good strength into it
Moving to the rear I extended the edge to go down the back fitting the wing a few times to check it's ok. The edge piece is made from a piece of 40mm steel bent in half and the curve put into the front with the stretcher, then relief cuts on the panel transition to follow the bit where it goes a bit inwards
Welded and linished back
Then the same process with the next piece
Dressed back
This is the PITA shape towards the back
Made it from several pieces, forgot to take pictures but this is the top part tacked on
Came out alright, might need minor dressing
The fitment of the overal panel is good, wing fits well and the cut edge is nice and tight
The sill end plate doesn't fit well at all, I think i had this with the other side too - i've marked where i need to cut out to let it sit flush and i'll make a piece to fit properly
Mostly finished rear inner panel number 2, like the other side when finished i'll shot blast to give a key for high zinc epoxy
I saw the MX5 national rally is in September, hoping to get the car done for then. Original plan was "a few weeks over Christmas".. hopefully this one is more realistic
On the overhang marked where it needs to turn down to join the outer edge
Bend the pieces down, trimmed several times and then tacked in place
Check it hasn't moved
Weld a bit more to get good strength into it
Moving to the rear I extended the edge to go down the back fitting the wing a few times to check it's ok. The edge piece is made from a piece of 40mm steel bent in half and the curve put into the front with the stretcher, then relief cuts on the panel transition to follow the bit where it goes a bit inwards
Welded and linished back
Then the same process with the next piece
Dressed back
This is the PITA shape towards the back
Made it from several pieces, forgot to take pictures but this is the top part tacked on
Came out alright, might need minor dressing
The fitment of the overal panel is good, wing fits well and the cut edge is nice and tight
The sill end plate doesn't fit well at all, I think i had this with the other side too - i've marked where i need to cut out to let it sit flush and i'll make a piece to fit properly
Mostly finished rear inner panel number 2, like the other side when finished i'll shot blast to give a key for high zinc epoxy
I saw the MX5 national rally is in September, hoping to get the car done for then. Original plan was "a few weeks over Christmas".. hopefully this one is more realistic
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Finished the inner wing, the front part where it meets the sil end plate was a bit off - the edge was right but the return was at too much of an angle. Adjusted the front part and it fits good.
Linished back the welds and ragged over the parts with a wire mop, this is just before I shot blasted the inner arch and the back piece
After shot blasting this is the wing with a coat of zinc epoxy
And the back piece
There was a bad piece of rust on the jack compartment so cut it out
Wierd piece of rust, just a spot that was almost through..
Welded in a new piece. Not my finist piece of welding
Painted it in zinc epoxy on the inside. The outside will get done when the under chassis gets done
I made a test piece to see how much abuse the zinc epoxy can take. Going to stick it in salty water or something more noxious.. dunno..
Linished back the welds and ragged over the parts with a wire mop, this is just before I shot blasted the inner arch and the back piece
After shot blasting this is the wing with a coat of zinc epoxy
And the back piece
There was a bad piece of rust on the jack compartment so cut it out
Wierd piece of rust, just a spot that was almost through..
Welded in a new piece. Not my finist piece of welding
Painted it in zinc epoxy on the inside. The outside will get done when the under chassis gets done
I made a test piece to see how much abuse the zinc epoxy can take. Going to stick it in salty water or something more noxious.. dunno..
- Mazda Mender
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Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Made a bit of progress on getting the outer sill off. Like last time I carefully drilled the spot welds and cut off half the side panel at the front
Was careful not to bend or otherwise muller it so the panel can go back on easy
Up front the front inside piece is gone like the other side, just not as bad
Will still have to remake it as it's got that horrible crusty rust on the back (can't see in picture). I kept the plywood bashing jig fortunately
I had a really interesting conversation with a guy who runs a metal finishing business today - about zinc spraying. It uses oxy acetylene to vapourise zinc which is then blasted at a metal surface covering the bare metal in 100um of zinc - which is very thick. It's an almost heat free process, so can be used where the side to be plated has paint on the back, he showed me a picture where he'd zinc sprayed a polystyrene cup . I think i'm going to get the subframes done this way but can't say i'm not tempted to get the whole underside done. 20 year corrosion proofing apparently..
Was careful not to bend or otherwise muller it so the panel can go back on easy
Up front the front inside piece is gone like the other side, just not as bad
Will still have to remake it as it's got that horrible crusty rust on the back (can't see in picture). I kept the plywood bashing jig fortunately
I had a really interesting conversation with a guy who runs a metal finishing business today - about zinc spraying. It uses oxy acetylene to vapourise zinc which is then blasted at a metal surface covering the bare metal in 100um of zinc - which is very thick. It's an almost heat free process, so can be used where the side to be plated has paint on the back, he showed me a picture where he'd zinc sprayed a polystyrene cup . I think i'm going to get the subframes done this way but can't say i'm not tempted to get the whole underside done. 20 year corrosion proofing apparently..
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Had all day on it today, think it went well but i spend a lot of time faffing around. Fed up of drilling spot welds
Outer sill removed, the rear inner sill is "pretty bad" i.e. partially absent
I've cut off the curvy inner sill pieces at the back in a place where it's easy to re-weld and dress later. The lines look mental but it makes sense to me.. honest..
Front isn't that bad comparitively but its still knackered. I'd removed the lower a-pillar / sill reinforcement piece in the picture - several difficult spot welds
Marked a cut line to cleanly get the inner sill out. Most of it will be reused, only the bottom 1" and a bit behind the a-pillar reinforcement piece needs replacing with new metal
Overall the inner sill is marginally better on this side than the other but the back is worse
Tomorrow i'll take the calipers / front heat shield off so i can fit the "build to" rail and get on with remaking the inner sill pieces. Quite looking forward to it this time which means it'll likely go badly
Outer sill removed, the rear inner sill is "pretty bad" i.e. partially absent
I've cut off the curvy inner sill pieces at the back in a place where it's easy to re-weld and dress later. The lines look mental but it makes sense to me.. honest..
Front isn't that bad comparitively but its still knackered. I'd removed the lower a-pillar / sill reinforcement piece in the picture - several difficult spot welds
Marked a cut line to cleanly get the inner sill out. Most of it will be reused, only the bottom 1" and a bit behind the a-pillar reinforcement piece needs replacing with new metal
Overall the inner sill is marginally better on this side than the other but the back is worse
Tomorrow i'll take the calipers / front heat shield off so i can fit the "build to" rail and get on with remaking the inner sill pieces. Quite looking forward to it this time which means it'll likely go badly
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Had a couple more days, seems to have gone quickly
Started taking off the front bulkhead reinforcement panel, was a PITA - lots of rust so couldn't see some of the spot welds
Frame rail was a bit rusty and at some point in the cars life it must have slipped on an axle stand because there was a big dent in the piece that goes off to the subframe mount. Must have been me, not one else has worked on it
Cut out the rusty section and enough to go past where the bent piece turns off to let me get a G-clamp behind it and bend it back
Tacked in the first piece bent to the right shape (1.5mm)
Then tacked on the second piece
Cut off the tack welds to remove the part
Then welded it both sides and linished it back. Welded it both sides so i could linish a nice radius onto the edge so it looks right
Gave it a couple of coats of the red weld through on the inside, cleaned up the inside of the frame rail and did the same. Put it in place with magnets
Welded on and linished back the welds
Put some of the red primer on the parts that'll be welded to later on. Looks alright
Got the build-to rail on and marked where the new parts will need to start and end
I cut out the rusty part of the front chassis rail / bulkhead reinforcement, will get on to making a new one
Started taking off the front bulkhead reinforcement panel, was a PITA - lots of rust so couldn't see some of the spot welds
Frame rail was a bit rusty and at some point in the cars life it must have slipped on an axle stand because there was a big dent in the piece that goes off to the subframe mount. Must have been me, not one else has worked on it
Cut out the rusty section and enough to go past where the bent piece turns off to let me get a G-clamp behind it and bend it back
Tacked in the first piece bent to the right shape (1.5mm)
Then tacked on the second piece
Cut off the tack welds to remove the part
Then welded it both sides and linished it back. Welded it both sides so i could linish a nice radius onto the edge so it looks right
Gave it a couple of coats of the red weld through on the inside, cleaned up the inside of the frame rail and did the same. Put it in place with magnets
Welded on and linished back the welds
Put some of the red primer on the parts that'll be welded to later on. Looks alright
Got the build-to rail on and marked where the new parts will need to start and end
I cut out the rusty part of the front chassis rail / bulkhead reinforcement, will get on to making a new one
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Cut out the rotten part of the chassis rail / bulkhead reinforcement piece
Bent up a new piece from 1.5mm to match the shape
Marked and drilled the holes for the two captive nuts. For the nuts I got some flange nuts and stripped the zinc off with brick acid. Did 3 or 4 big tacks on each one
Mounted it in place and tacked on a 'L' pieceto form the lower part
Removed the part, tacked the other side then linished back the face and welded it completely on both sides
Linished back, trimmed the lower part to shape and fitted in place. The heavy welds on both sides lets me put the nice radius on it so it looks like it's formed from one piece
Against the old with the plug weld holes and the hole for the inner arch trim
The back of it
Painted ready for fitting. Used zinc aerosol with a gloss top coat on the parts that wont get hot in welding. The hot bits get the zinc silicate red stuff
Welded in place and linished back. Put some leftover red stuff to stop it surface rusting. It'll get zinc epoxy when the whole chassis is stripped
The curvy bit of the front inner sill was rusty. Cut a curved piece to match the existing edge, then bent up a piece to sit on top - it's a funny shape because a bit of rust starts towards the back and getting it in one piece seemed easier
Tacked in place
Removed it and tacked the other side to make it stronger
Linished back the edge of the top piece to meet the curved lip
Fully welded on both sides
Linished back and trimmed
Mark the exact outline on the rusty part. Have to use a bit of judgement as the piece will sit back a bit when fitted
Test fitted in place against the build rail. The gap up the top left is a bit bigger than i'd wanted but it'll weld up OK
Bent up a new piece from 1.5mm to match the shape
Marked and drilled the holes for the two captive nuts. For the nuts I got some flange nuts and stripped the zinc off with brick acid. Did 3 or 4 big tacks on each one
Mounted it in place and tacked on a 'L' pieceto form the lower part
Removed the part, tacked the other side then linished back the face and welded it completely on both sides
Linished back, trimmed the lower part to shape and fitted in place. The heavy welds on both sides lets me put the nice radius on it so it looks like it's formed from one piece
Against the old with the plug weld holes and the hole for the inner arch trim
The back of it
Painted ready for fitting. Used zinc aerosol with a gloss top coat on the parts that wont get hot in welding. The hot bits get the zinc silicate red stuff
Welded in place and linished back. Put some leftover red stuff to stop it surface rusting. It'll get zinc epoxy when the whole chassis is stripped
The curvy bit of the front inner sill was rusty. Cut a curved piece to match the existing edge, then bent up a piece to sit on top - it's a funny shape because a bit of rust starts towards the back and getting it in one piece seemed easier
Tacked in place
Removed it and tacked the other side to make it stronger
Linished back the edge of the top piece to meet the curved lip
Fully welded on both sides
Linished back and trimmed
Mark the exact outline on the rusty part. Have to use a bit of judgement as the piece will sit back a bit when fitted
Test fitted in place against the build rail. The gap up the top left is a bit bigger than i'd wanted but it'll weld up OK
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Excellent work with a good clear explanation of what and why. Keep the good work up.
1993 1.6 Eunos Roadster (gone)
1998 UK Mk 2 1.6 (gone)
2003 1.8 SVT Sport (shouldnt have sold it)
1991 1.6 Eunos Roadster with a bit of bling.
Life is a journey, best travelled topless in an MX5!!
1998 UK Mk 2 1.6 (gone)
2003 1.8 SVT Sport (shouldnt have sold it)
1991 1.6 Eunos Roadster with a bit of bling.
Life is a journey, best travelled topless in an MX5!!
- GlennyGills
- Moderator
- Posts: 630
- Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:13 pm
- Location: Reading
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
That is looking great. did you get Wayne to do the photos. Lots of detail shown.
'96 Gleneagles MeisterR Coilovers - engine bling stainless mx5parts full exhaust
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
Had a good day today but took naff all pictures
Welded in the repair piece and dressed it back. Checked fitment of the front panel (hence welding clamp) and it fits alright
Cut the replacement outer sill to shape, just removing the small part behind the door and checked it was fitting good
Then drilled out a load of spot welds and cut the inner sill for the new parts to go in, i'll get some pictures next time
This is probably quite boring to read because it's exactly the same process as the previous side
Welded in the repair piece and dressed it back. Checked fitment of the front panel (hence welding clamp) and it fits alright
Cut the replacement outer sill to shape, just removing the small part behind the door and checked it was fitting good
Then drilled out a load of spot welds and cut the inner sill for the new parts to go in, i'll get some pictures next time
This is probably quite boring to read because it's exactly the same process as the previous side
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
It's only by following this build that you realise of the complexity of the construction of these wee roadsters.
1993 1.6 Eunos Roadster (gone)
1998 UK Mk 2 1.6 (gone)
2003 1.8 SVT Sport (shouldnt have sold it)
1991 1.6 Eunos Roadster with a bit of bling.
Life is a journey, best travelled topless in an MX5!!
1998 UK Mk 2 1.6 (gone)
2003 1.8 SVT Sport (shouldnt have sold it)
1991 1.6 Eunos Roadster with a bit of bling.
Life is a journey, best travelled topless in an MX5!!
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 2002 Arizona Rebuild
They're total rust pits blacky, if they'd used the same level of corrosion protection that VAGs used in the same era then it'd still be fine. Still, it's made 20 years which is probably double the design life
Done a bit on the inner sill, made the new front piece including jacking point like before. It's sloped up the front to mate with the front bulkhead reinforcement panel. Tacked in place to get the shape
Removed, fully welded both sides and dressed back
Decided to move the ECU and wiring over to the side for welding, had bad omens of flames getting to it Removed the anti tamper nuts by welding M10 nuts to the top
Put back on the car, welded and dressed back. The red weld thru primer put on the mating surfaces before
Thought the rear would be the same as the other side
Unfortunately the panel that joins the rear sill to the transmission tunner and reinforces the back is in a bad state, a lot worse than the other side
With the inner sill removed the rust on the inside was bad, crusty stuff quite a way in. Doesn't look too bad in the picture but it was quite bad
Drilled out the spot welds - which were artisan in placement
Cut out the bad bits enough to get a 2" wire wheel in there to rag out what was left
Made a new part. I could have hammer formed it but it was easier to cut a pair of slots to make the "bulge" for the bracked it needs to clear
Welded both sides, dressed back and some primer on it. I put the plug welds back in the same place as they were, even tho it's a bit wierd
I used the rust.co.uk "molecular rust converter" on the inner.. seems the same as kurust to me.. then scuffed it up and put some frosts zinc aerosol on it
Pushed into place, seems to fit alright
Would have done a bit more but it was my turn to do dinner. Should get it done tomorrow and get back to where i thought i'd be
Done a bit on the inner sill, made the new front piece including jacking point like before. It's sloped up the front to mate with the front bulkhead reinforcement panel. Tacked in place to get the shape
Removed, fully welded both sides and dressed back
Decided to move the ECU and wiring over to the side for welding, had bad omens of flames getting to it Removed the anti tamper nuts by welding M10 nuts to the top
Put back on the car, welded and dressed back. The red weld thru primer put on the mating surfaces before
Thought the rear would be the same as the other side
Unfortunately the panel that joins the rear sill to the transmission tunner and reinforces the back is in a bad state, a lot worse than the other side
With the inner sill removed the rust on the inside was bad, crusty stuff quite a way in. Doesn't look too bad in the picture but it was quite bad
Drilled out the spot welds - which were artisan in placement
Cut out the bad bits enough to get a 2" wire wheel in there to rag out what was left
Made a new part. I could have hammer formed it but it was easier to cut a pair of slots to make the "bulge" for the bracked it needs to clear
Welded both sides, dressed back and some primer on it. I put the plug welds back in the same place as they were, even tho it's a bit wierd
I used the rust.co.uk "molecular rust converter" on the inner.. seems the same as kurust to me.. then scuffed it up and put some frosts zinc aerosol on it
Pushed into place, seems to fit alright
Would have done a bit more but it was my turn to do dinner. Should get it done tomorrow and get back to where i thought i'd be
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