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Tools needed:
- 8mm socket and wrench, spanner or JIS driver.
- 20mm socket and breaker bar or impact gun
- Phillips screw driver
- Fine sandpaper
- Something to clean grease, e.g brake cleaner
- Lithium based grease
- A clean work area
- Torque Wrench
Disclaimer: Be careful what else you disassemble, historically I have known clock springs inside these units on other cars to spontaneously eject themselves, this process doesn't touch the clock spring.
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This was completed on a non-airbag unit N002
Thought I'd quickly throw this together as there was no topic covering the tear down procedure, I needed to inspect mine for damage and found actually the components were corroded inside.
Removal:
Start by removing your steering wheel, I won't cover that with pictures and instructions as it's been covered off lots of times elsewhere.
Next crack off the centre nut (size 21mm), I did this using an impact gun, if you are old fashioned and manly unlike me, use a breaker bar and brace the hub or block the wheels somehow, you must also be aware that it is a self locking nut and with being so should only be removed and re-used around 4 times,
Mark up where to align to splines when refitting, it can go back a thousand different ways and your steering wheel will never be straight again
some paint or a marker pen will do the trick.on removing the nut, turn it on by hand a couple of turns and pull on the wheel while rocking from side to side, top and bottom for it to break free from the steering rack splines and stop at the nut so as not to break your chin/teeth or nose, but if you are not lucky enough like me to have had someone remove the hub before, it will likely be seized onto the combination switch unit. To remove this, I used a hub puller, less than £10 even in today's money, from euros. Though I wish I had maybe bought a better one for future projects. Place the puller arms behind the weighted disk, and wind the centre into the steering column. Try not to flinch as it removes itself.
Undo any electrical plugs behind the unit, mine had a total of 4
Next, take an 8mm socket or JIS driver, and undo the retainer clip behind and under the combination switch. The aim is to loosen, but not fully remove the clip.
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With that loosened, you should now be able to gently pry the tab on top with one hand and pull the unit off. I gave mine a gentle wiggle to free it up.
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Disassembly:
Take the combination switch unit to your clean work area and flip it over, face down. Ensure the wiper stalk is in the neutral/off position.
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You will see 2 screws to undo, one on the clear plastic cover and one going through the unit opposite it. The switch unit should now come away from the combination unit, tilt the unit as you remove it to allow the retaining arm towards the centre to come under.
Then remove the clear plastic cover by gently prying the retaining clips off. Inspect the PCB for any burnt areas. If all good proceed. You may refit the plastic if you wish. If it does have any burnt marks on it, you will likely need to source a new unit, unless you happen to be an expert in repairing PCB traces.
Next you will need to separate the switch unit, there are 2 retaining clips similar to the ones that were on the clear plastic cover. Gently release these and separate the two halves.
You will find 2 sliding switches inside, don't worry if these fall out as we will be cleaning these up anyway.
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On the half with the copper contacts, spray some contact cleaner or brake cleaner, and give it a scrub with a brush (I use an old toothbrush). Wipe down with a clean cloth.
Use your fine sandpaper to get everything copper back to nice shiny metal, including under the long copper arm. Wipe all down again with the cloth to remove any debris.
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Remove the two small sliding switches, and give them the same treatment.
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Next liberally apply lithium grease to all the areas that the sliding switches contact, if you use a spray one, allow it 30 seconds to set a little.
Refitting is now a reversal process, start by placing the 2 sliding switches in their homes, like so. Notice the orientation of the white slider. Press the other half back on.
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Make sure the sliding switches move freely with good action. Then put the switches into the positions as noted in the picture above.
Angle the unit under the retaining arm and gently but firmly push the unit back together. I had to give it a little wiggle to get the plastic dowels lined up.
Replace the two screws.
Refit:
Line up the unit so its sat vertical, you can achieve this using the tab on the back as a guide.
Push the unit back as far as it will go, and retighten the 8mm bolt to secure it.
Refit the plugs.
Refit the hub, ensuring it lines up with your original marks.
Refit the nut and torque down to (I believe) 45nm as listed in the Haynes manual. If you have an aftermarket hub, this may be different.
