What you put in, you'll get back ten fold
Members and searchers please be aware that some of our 'how to' guides do not currently show the intended help photos. This is because photobucket wants to charge a monthly amount for us to view our own pics. The photos are currently being replaced. If you need one of our guides and it is missing pics please let one of the Admin team know and we will make that one a priority for you.
Regards
Admin

Dash removal - UPDATED 10/09/2017

User avatar
Mazda Mender
Site Admin
Posts: 11994
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
Location: Pie land,North west
Contact:

Dash removal - UPDATED 10/09/2017

Postby Mazda Mender » Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:36 pm

Mk2 dash into a Mk1
If you're looking to update the interior of your mk1, probably one of the best ways to do this is to replace the mk1 dashboard with a mk2 unit. Whilst it may seem like a big job, it's actually fairly easy for anyone who can wield a screwdriver and a spanner, to swap the unit. It's a half day job to swap the units over but you will need to leave longer for the additional wiring requirements including wiring into the mk2 hazard switch and rerouting the headlight service button.

It's a job best done on a warm day when you can have the roof down and the doors open outside - the more space the better for this job.

This is a long write-up but please stick with it - it's long because I have tried to include all the little bits of detail to enable anyone who can identify the tools to do this job.


Tools and Other items Required
medium-sized Phillips screwdriver (the one that fits everything else)
14mm socket
12mm socket
10mm socket
ratchet for the above (I like the 1/2 for the 14mm and 3/8 for the 12mm and 10mm but that's just me)
10mm open ended spanner
radio removal tools (if applicable)
torx keys


Step 1: Remove the centre console
First thing to do is remove the centre console.Start by removing the two screws (one either side of the gearbox tunnel).
DSC00320.jpg
DSC00320.jpg (439.97 KiB) Viewed 42 times


Then remove the ashtray / cupholder and remove the screw beneath
DSC00321.jpg
DSC00321.jpg (317.64 KiB) Viewed 42 times


Lift the arm rest and remove the two screws contained within
DSC00322.jpg
DSC00322.jpg (268.35 KiB) Viewed 42 times


Remove the gearknob (standard roadster gearknob should just unscrew anticlockwise)
DSC00323.jpg
DSC00323.jpg (254.94 KiB) Viewed 42 times


Lift the centre console slightly. Underneath, on the Driver's side, you should see a small electrical connection for the ashtray light - unclip this.
DSC00324.jpg
DSC00324.jpg (502.49 KiB) Viewed 42 times


Where applicable, you should also see the electric window switch wiring block. Undo this (it has a clip on one side that needs depressing to release.
DSC00325.jpg
DSC00325.jpg (309.49 KiB) Viewed 42 times


You can now remove the centre console.
In preparation for removing the daqshboard and loom, disconnect the electrical plug on the handbrake at this point (it's easily forgotten if left til later).
DSC02520.jpg
DSC02520.jpg (515.6 KiB) Viewed 42 times


Step 2: Radio Surround Removal
Next Step is to remove the radio surround. Depending on how your stereo is fitted (if applicable) you either need to remove this before or after you remove the surround. One our project car, the radio has already been removed.

First step is to remove the heater vents - there are two methods for this, we use a long sturdy screwdriver and lever them out. Alternatively, you can feed a piece of string so it loops out again and pull on both ends to pull out.
DSC00326.jpg
DSC00326.jpg (337.91 KiB) Viewed 42 times


DSC00327.jpg
DSC00327.jpg (332.42 KiB) Viewed 42 times


Where you have removed the vents, there should be a single screw to the top of each vent hole. Remove these with your phillips screwdriver.
DSC00328.jpg
DSC00328.jpg (318.27 KiB) Viewed 40 times


Also, at the bottom of the surround, to the left (passenger side), there is another single Phillips screw - remove this also.
DSC00329.jpg
DSC00329.jpg (286.71 KiB) Viewed 40 times


Pull the radio surround forward slightly and reach behind to unplug the hazard warning / headlight service switch. You should now be able to remove the radio surround.
DSC00330.jpg
DSC00330.jpg (380.01 KiB) Viewed 40 times


To make dashboard removal easier, remove the small metal bracket to which the centre console is screwed. This is held in with 2 phillips screws
DSC00363.jpg
DSC00363.jpg (396.05 KiB) Viewed 40 times


bracker removed:
DSC00365.jpg
DSC00365.jpg (385.91 KiB) Viewed 40 times


Step 3: Removal of Trim / instruments
Moving to the driver's side, remove the panel from underneath the steering wheel. This is held in with two phillips screws.

DSC00331.jpg
DSC00331.jpg (290.75 KiB) Viewed 40 times


DSC00332.jpg
DSC00332.jpg (348.28 KiB) Viewed 40 times


Next remove the steering wheel cowling. This is held in with 4 screws - 3 standard trim screws and 1 shorter brass coloured screw.

DSC00333-1.jpg
DSC00333-1.jpg (353.58 KiB) Viewed 40 times


Once you have removed the 4 screws the cowling should come loose and should split in two - a top and bottom section. Remove both sections and put to one side. You will reuse these with the mk2 dash.

Next is the instrument cowling - this is held in with 2 phillips-headed screws - one on either side of the steering wheel on the underside of the cowling.

DSC00334-1.jpg
DSC00334-1.jpg (185.05 KiB) Viewed 40 times


DSC02224.jpg
DSC02224.jpg (89.78 KiB) Viewed 36 times


DSC02223.jpg
DSC02223.jpg (168.12 KiB) Viewed 36 times


DSC00335.jpg
DSC00335.jpg (241.94 KiB) Viewed 40 times


DSC00336.jpg
DSC00336.jpg (287.64 KiB) Viewed 40 times


Once the screws have been removed, grab hold of the cowling at either side, and pull sharply toward you. It should now unclip.
DSC00337.jpg
DSC00337.jpg (354.99 KiB) Viewed 40 times


You can then maneuverer the cowling out, revealing the instrument cluster.
This is held in with 4 more phillips-headed screws - one in each corner. Remove these.
DSC00338-1.jpg
DSC00338-1.jpg (318.67 KiB) Viewed 40 times


DSC00339-1.jpg
DSC00339-1.jpg (321.33 KiB) Viewed 40 times


Once the screws are removed, pull the instrument cluster forward slightly and unclip each of the electrical connectors that plug into the instrument cluster. You will also need to disconnect the speedo cable. Two options to do this - either hold the instrument cluster at either end and pull towards the steering wheel with a quick jerk. Alternatively, if you can, reach behind the instrument cluster and unclip it (I find this difficult unless someone with small hands is around).

DSC00340-1.jpg
DSC00340-1.jpg (265.13 KiB) Viewed 40 times


Step 4: Heater control removal
You've almost stripped everything off the dash, ready to undo and remove. The biggest tasks left to do is to remove the heater controls. This is held in with 4 screws - 2 either side of the heater controls (they should be obvious but here are two pictures to help).

DSC00352-1.jpg
DSC00352-1.jpg (327.63 KiB) Viewed 40 times


DSC00353-1.jpg
DSC00353-1.jpg (345.98 KiB) Viewed 40 times

And two with the screws removed

DSC00354-1.jpg
DSC00354-1.jpg (336.19 KiB) Viewed 40 times


DSC00355-1.jpg
DSC00355-1.jpg (314.32 KiB) Viewed 40 times


Now you will need to disconnect the manual control cables where they connect to the heater system (not from the heater control panel). There are three cables - the easiest two are located either side of the heater matrix (centre of the car) and are accessed via the two footwells.
Driver's side:

DSC00358.jpg
DSC00358.jpg (331.29 KiB) Viewed 36 times

They simply pull off the lever and unclip

DSC00359-1.jpg
DSC00359-1.jpg (471.34 KiB) Viewed 36 times

Passenger side:

DSC00360-1.jpg
DSC00360-1.jpg (258.8 KiB) Viewed 36 times


DSC00361.jpg
DSC00361.jpg (284.26 KiB) Viewed 36 times


The remaining one is located behind the glovebox, up in the far left. You really will need to get your head into the glovebox area but it is fairly easy to find:


DSC00357.jpg
DSC00357.jpg (208.65 KiB) Viewed 36 times


Once the cables are released the heater control panel should pull forward, out of the dash. Once it is slightly out of the dash, reach behind it and disconnect the electrical connections:

DSC00362.jpg
DSC00362.jpg (290.5 KiB) Viewed 36 times


You can now pull the heather controls out (taking care they don't snag on anything and bend the heater control wires.


Step 5: Windscreen trim removal
In order to remove the windscreen surround you first need to disconnect the sunvisors. These are held on with two phillips screws. Remove these and place somewhere safe (the glovebox is usually a good option).

DSC00346-1.jpg
DSC00346-1.jpg (286.81 KiB) Viewed 36 times


You'll also need to remove the roof catches from the windscreen surround. These should be held on with two star-shaped bolts - you can get these out with an allen key but it is better if you have the correct tools.

DSC00347.jpg
DSC00347.jpg (403 KiB) Viewed 36 times


Once the sunvisors and roof catches are removed, you need to remove the windscreen rubber seal. Start at one side and pull if off around the windscreen. It should have a small black or white plastic stud holding it in place to the side of the windscreen near the top (these are be difficult to find!). You remove these with a trim tool or carefully with a flat screwdriver. Be careful not to pull the trim over the stud, leaving them in place as you risk splitting the trim and a water leak later!

Once the seal is removed, remove the rear view mirror / interior light (depending on year), unclip the plastic panels, starting with the one along the top. These should just unclip but be careful not to break them.

DSC00348.jpg
DSC00348.jpg (411.42 KiB) Viewed 36 times


You should now have everything removed from that dashboard that is necessary. Now time to remove the dash itself...

Step 5: Dashboard removal
In order to remove the dashboard now, there are 9 bolts to remove. These are located as followed:
1 in the middle of the dash board, under the small square cover near the windscreen
2 on each end of the dashboard behind blank plates that are visible when the doors are open
2 on either side of the the middle of the dash, where the radio and heater live (again, behind the blank plates - sometimes used for additional interior lighting).

You also need to disconnect the bonnet pull from the dashboard and the steering column (you can leave the steering wheel on) as well as undo a few electrical connections.

In order to access all the dash bolts, you need to remove 7 blank plates. To remove, you can use either a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the dashboard), a thin trim removal tool or you may find they can be popped out with your hands.

pic of driver's side end blank plate location

DSC00341.jpg
DSC00341.jpg (229.64 KiB) Viewed 36 times


pic of driver's side central blank plate location

DSC00342.jpg
DSC00342.jpg (466.24 KiB) Viewed 36 times


pic of all 6 long blank plates removed

DSC00343-1.jpg
DSC00343-1.jpg (411.4 KiB) Viewed 36 times


central blank plate (on top of dash near windscreen) to be removed

DSC02500.jpg
DSC02500.jpg (361.98 KiB) Viewed 36 times


central blank plate (on top of dash near windscreen) removed

DSC02502.jpg
DSC02502.jpg (334.31 KiB) Viewed 36 times


To remove the bolt you will need a 10mm open spanner (you can try a swan neck spanner but they don't always fit). Undo the bolt and set to one side.

driver's side blank plates removed

DSC00344.jpg
DSC00344.jpg (246.92 KiB) Viewed 36 times


To remove the bolts use a 10mm socket.

driver's side central blank plate removed

DSC00345-1.jpg
DSC00345-1.jpg (436.52 KiB) Viewed 36 times


To remove the bolts use a 14mm socket.

The bonnet release is held on with a nut on the underside of the dash (at the back of the pull). Undo the nut, twist the bonnet pull and slide it towards the floor - it should now be hanging freely:

DSC00349-2.jpg
DSC00349-2.jpg (254.45 KiB) Viewed 36 times


To remove the dash you will also need to disconnect the sterring column from the dashboard. To do this, remove the 2 12mm bolts (one either side of the sterring wheel) - they are long bolts so they take a while.


DSC02503.jpg
DSC02503.jpg (320.85 KiB) Viewed 36 times


To give an extra bit of room (it all counts when it comes to getting the dash out!) you also should slacken (but not remove) the two 12mm bolts which hold the steering column in place on the bulkhead. To locate these follow the sterring column down to the bulk head. You should be able to get to both of these with a 12mm socket and a couple of extension bars.


DSC02505.jpg
DSC02505.jpg (316.4 KiB) Viewed 36 times


This should give you a drop on the steering column like this

DSC02506.jpg
DSC02506.jpg (389.9 KiB) Viewed 36 times


Once this is all done you need to unplug some wiring. Disconnect the blocks underneath the steering column.

DSC02507.jpg
DSC02507.jpg (293.96 KiB) Viewed 36 times


you only need to undo these ones!

DSC02508.jpg
DSC02508.jpg (364.84 KiB) Viewed 36 times


Moving to the passenger side, unplug the wiring from the heater matrix

DSC02509.jpg
DSC02509.jpg (321.06 KiB) Viewed 36 times


You also need to undo these connectors:

DSC02511.jpg
DSC02511.jpg (296.83 KiB) Viewed 36 times



DSC02513.jpg
DSC02513.jpg (216.36 KiB) Viewed 36 times


Once all this is done the dash should be ready for removal. Obviously if you have additional aftermarket kit fitted you'll need to ensure this is all removed first!

There is no exact science to removing the dash once at this stage. In general it is easiest to pull it forward slightly and roll it forward at the same time as the brackets on the gearbox tunnel (where you undid the screws behind the blank plates have ridges for the dash to sit in. Once over these you should be able to pull the dash out (normally easiest to head out the passenger door area).

This should leave you with something looking like this...

DSC02516.jpg
DSC02516.jpg (431.15 KiB) Viewed 36 times


and this...

DSC02517.jpg
DSC02517.jpg (423.25 KiB) Viewed 36 times


and this...

DSC02518.jpg
DSC02518.jpg (419.56 KiB) Viewed 36 times


and this...

DSC02519.jpg
DSC02519.jpg (422.74 KiB) Viewed 36 times


DSC01659.jpg
DSC01659.jpg (156.17 KiB) Viewed 36 times


While you have the dash out ,jump on opportunity and and remove the trunking clips if fitted with A/C, clean them up and stick on new foam seal and re-fit to the trunking as i can guarantee the old seal will be dry and past it's best, so you will not be getting the best from the heater.

DSC02514-2.jpg
DSC02514-2.jpg (328.75 KiB) Viewed 36 times


DSC02515-2.jpg
DSC02515-2.jpg (391.32 KiB) Viewed 36 times


In order to fit the mk 2 dash you need to transfer the mk1 loom over onto the back of the mk2 dash. To keep it simple, lie each dash face down (on something soft to prevent scratches and dents). Remove the loom from the mk1 dash, lay it out on the mk 2 dash and wire tie it securely in place (you can't just transfer it over on all the clips as they are in different places on the two dashboards).

When doing this you'll need to take care to reroute any wiring you will be connecting in a different place. For example, the hazard wiring need to go in a similar place on both dashboards but you'll need to consider a location and switch for the headlight service switch (i put mine next to the cigarette lighter on the mk2.

You'll also need to think about how you are going to connect the various switches now (HOW-TO ON THIS WILL FOLLOW).

Once the loom is transferred over and secured you can maneuver the mk2 dash into the mk1. At this stage, install the dash and finger tighten done the various bolts which secure the dash (one on top of the dash near the windscreen, 2 at each end of the dash and 2 either side of the radio / heater section. These should fit straight in. Reconnect all the electrics you undid from either end of the dash and try starting the car. If it starts, all is well and proceed to reinstall everything else. If it doesn't (or it seems to run differently to how it did before you removed the dash, check all the plugs / earths are reconnected (it's easier to remove the dash again now if you need to than once you've installed everything and think you are ready to start her up and drive off into the sunset!).

DSC01660.jpg
DSC01660.jpg (117.53 KiB) Viewed 36 times


By mazda-mender and mazda-mender Jnr
Hugeness
Just Run In
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2017 12:06 pm

Re: Dash removal - UPDATED 21/2/13

Postby Hugeness » Sun Sep 10, 2017 2:00 pm

MM,
Any chance the pics could be updated?
I've got to change the dash on mine because it's cracked and I'm not looking forward to it!
1996 Mk1 Eunos Roadster in red
User avatar
Mazda Mender
Site Admin
Posts: 11994
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
Location: Pie land,North west
Contact:

Re: Dash removal - UPDATED 21/2/13

Postby Mazda Mender » Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:02 pm

Yeah buddy, bl**dy photofukwits...leave it with usM-m.
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettled,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special being fettled
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
User avatar
Mazda Mender
Site Admin
Posts: 11994
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
Location: Pie land,North west
Contact:

Re: Dash removal - UPDATED 10/09/2017

Postby Mazda Mender » Sun Sep 10, 2017 9:30 pm

Re-Done..
Updated 10/09/17
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 fettled,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
Mk 1 Eunos 96 1.8 blue B2...being fettled
Mk1 Eunos 93 1.6 black S special being fettled
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
Hugeness
Just Run In
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2017 12:06 pm

Re: Dash removal - UPDATED 10/09/2017

Postby Hugeness » Wed Sep 13, 2017 1:47 pm

Superb, thanks MM
1996 Mk1 Eunos Roadster in red

Return to “MK1”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests