Mazda-Menders

Please let us know what articles you are happy to provide.

I don't need the article itself here just the title. Then we can get some sort of list together and get this place moving.

I changed my busted Number plate plinth last week end and actually remembered to take a few pics.

Would this be useful or is it a bit too basic?

What sort of size is best for images-I take it 6.7mb ones might be a bit big

I usually use 800 wide and about the 100kb mark would this be about right?

I also took door panel off as central locking was playing up but forgot to get camera out for that-maybe the next time it goes wrong.....

yup 800x600 or there abouts is perfect.

Nothing is too simple. What's simple to you might be a scarey nightmare to someone with no technical knowledge/experience

Get it up and posted Col.
As Lazza as said, easy job for you ,total nightmare for someone else somewhere.
M-m

Ok description written, photos sorted and re sized and Instructions scanned to PDFs

I assume that I should now e-mail it to someone, so that being the case who would be the best person to send it to?

My self or skuzy Col
M-m

Can provide an article on colour changing the interior if it's any use. If I can do it, anyone can!

By all means,Get it posted up,
we have loads of stuff sat on the hard drive ready for posting up into how to's when we get the time, and agent orange( he is the software wizz kid for the site) can pop them into the FAQ's and how to sections, for everyone else to use with your name on them for good, which will also be shared with Autolinks site for even more owners to view.

M-m

Nice one Rob. Well done

and front brake lines/flexi/caliper change.

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Today I changed the front brake lines from Master cylinder to hose both sides. I knew I was going to have a job getting the old ones out so to make life easier I decided to change the flex hoses at the same time and whilst I was there I may as well change callipers for the ones I got off the bay. this is a bit photo heavy so will be done over several posts.
This was a relatively easy task to carry out.
Time taken about 5 hours but I was slacking a bit :P
Tools used:
Trolley Jack and 2 axle stands
Wheel nut wrench
Flat screwdriver
Cross head screwdriver
mole grips
wire brush
blow lamp
hacksaw
Spanners - 8mm, 10mm, 11mm, 14mm
Sockets - 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 15mm
pipe cutter
pipe double flaring tool
bench vice
zip ties



So the first thing I did was slacken the wheel nuts and jack up support and remove the wheels.
Here is the drivers side before starting.

I put cling film over the MS to reduce the loss of fluid but it did not work lol.


Getting the pipe out of the union was a pain in the ass. I wasted 2 hours when I should of just taken a hacksaw to it as it was being binned anyway.


Next remove the U shaped spring clip, this will work lose quite easy with the help of some light taps and work with a screwdriver


Remove the connection at the Master Cylinder. (centre far left) 10mm spanner then just pull the pipe out from any plastic clips and lift away.
Actually its not that simple, due to the shape of the pipe and the need to keep it that way so you can use as template for the new pipe you actually need to twist and turn it this way and that to get it out.


Pipe removed


Flex hose removed, this took some getting out it was rusted in solid so a quick call to Craig for some tips and out with the hammer and mole grips and off it came. you need a 12 mm socket at the calliper end


Next up was to make my new brake line.
I took the old line and measured with some wire so I knew what length to cut.


The I took my roll of new pipe and cut the required length


I cleaned up the ends and added a very slight internal chamfer, then placed the pipe in the flaring vice ensuring the amount poking through was correct per the flaring die.


I lubricated the die with a little brake fluid and placed it into the pipe


Then I attached the compression tool and tightened up to make the first flare you cant really over tighten this as you can feel it when it is done.


I inspected the flare to make sure it was good enough to continue for the double flare, no point continuing if it was not the right shape.


The compression tool was used again but this time without the die to make the second flare completing the double flare.


On removal I had a nice even double flare, it was clean and true


I mated it up to a joint to check that it was good.


Then before repeating the process on the other end, I slid the couplings onto the pipe making sure they were the correct way round.


The finished pipe, now all I need to do is add the bends.


I found zip ties very handy whilst adding the bends as I was working by hand and just bending the pipe as I worked along the length I add ties as I progressed.


I then moved on to the passenger side, removal was just the same as I had done for the drivers for the most part, except this time I used a hacksaw on the pipe which saved me some time. Since this pipe is longer and very different from the drivers side here are pics. Also this pip runs along the bulkhead so you also need to pull the pipe away from its clip mountings you can remove 1 bolt and screw from the aircon pipe to make it easier. I also removed my air filter and heat shield to give better access.

Before cutting the new length.



New length cut and bent to shape.


I opted to do the flaring after bends this time, due to size and shape


And all fitted.


Passenger side complete


Drivers side complete


New pipes at the MS


And along the bulkhead

front damper and springs change (non alignment affecting method AKA the hard way lol)
Driver suspension changed.
Method
put the car in gear and apply handbrake, loosen wheel nuts.
Jackup the car and support on stands and remove wheel.

under the bonnet slacken the middle nut of the strut top (DO NOT REMOVE), slacken and remove the two outer nuts.


Next remove the bolt, nut and washer from the bottom of the damper.


Next remove the top bolt from the ARB drop link.


I had to remove the bottom bolt as the top one was rusted solid.


Make a note of which way round things are in relation to each other. Attach spring compressors to the spring, (you need at least 5 coils or you won't get enough reduction to remove the strut). I used the bottom plate where the spring sits to gain enough reduction ( can be risky especially if they are flat but mine were recessed so I took the risk) sorry I forgot this pic lol.

Now comes the difficult bit, using a power bar for leverage on the bottom wishbone, push the bottom wishbone down whilst manipulating the strut out of its seat and away from the car.

Whilst you have the strut out, now is a great time to clean up inside there and treat the area.


I went for underseal as my finish of choice.


Whilst that is drying take the strut and remove the middle nut from the top and carefully remove the spring compressors. Lift away the spring and set aside the top mount and gaiter if present, and the bump stop.
Take the new spring and damper and assemble using the old top mount gaiter, bump stop, and gasket. Fit the spring compressors and compress in the same manner as done to the old one.


Now the hard bit if your by yourself.
With strut in one hand and foot on wishbone leverage, force the wishbone down and manipulate the strut into place referring to your reference point taken for the old one. You will need to compress the damper at the same time so as you can imagine his is quite difficult to do.



With the strut in place you can now fit all your bolts and tighten them up but not fully, the suspension needs to be under load when you fully tighten or you will have issues.
To place the suspension under load without wheels, just place a jack under the wheel hub as far out as you can and jack up till the car just starts to lift off the support stands the car will be sitting on.
Now get that torque wrench and tighten the nuts up to the specified settings.

Fit the wheel and lower the car back down and take a trip around the block to make sure everything feels all right.

M-m