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Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

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Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby bluelightning » Wed Apr 29, 2020 1:33 pm

Good Afternoon. So today I have made a start on the suspension install. I have jacked the rear of the car up and safely supported it on axle stands. I thought I would try and loosen every nut at bolt before getting too far. The first problem I have encountered is this one. I can not identify what it is supposed to be. I think it is a Nut with a split pin behind it, but it seems to just be a big pile of molten rust. I have sprayed WD 40 on it over night and rubbed it with a wire brush to try and identify. So my question is can someone please tell me what size nut (i.e what size socket I will need), confirm whter it is a split pin and give me some advice as to how I can remove it please?

My next step was to heat it with a blow torch and let it cool down but I'm not sure if that is a good idea if it is indeed a split pin behind the nut?

DSC_1405 Insta.jpg
DSC_1405 Insta.jpg (478.79 KiB) Viewed 283 times


Many thanks. Richard
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby Mazda Mender » Wed Apr 29, 2020 3:15 pm

So I am going centre of the pic...17mm nut and should be a bolt head then on the other side, the one that holds the damper to the bottom bone is 17mm with a captive nut in like a cage affair, the other that is sprayed also with a waste of time WD40 is the drop link with a 14 mm nut and bolt, I would invest in some good penetrating oil and leave the old school WD40 for the door hinges in the house.
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Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby bluelightning » Wed Apr 29, 2020 6:14 pm

Thank you for the swift response. I couldn't get the 17mm socket on to begin with, but with the confidence that it was the correct size I cleaned it up with a screwdriver and then the 17mm went on. So I have the coilover out now. However, the 14mm drop link nut has just mashed itself. I used a six point socket but obviously I've been too ham-fisted with it and whilst in the process of applying heat the drop link has come away, see the photo below. Will I have to replace the whole drop link once I have the nut off of the ball end, or can this be repaired somehow? Thanks for the help so far, I think this forum is going to be a godsend for a newbie like me.


Thanks again.

Richard
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DSC_1417 Drop Link.jpg
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby Mazda Mender » Wed Apr 29, 2020 9:21 pm

There is never any point wasting your time in trying to save or reuse old NB drop links unless new or have been protected...grinder and bin...fit new and get some protection grease on them ...the blue print links are better than the OE items and cheaper.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby bluelightning » Thu Apr 30, 2020 7:47 am

Thank you, I will do that then.

I guess this mornings first task is to find a friendly car parts shop in or near to St Helens so that I can get these Blue Print drops and some decent penetrating oil. Do you have any particular recommendations for the penetrating oil?
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby Mazda Mender » Thu Apr 30, 2020 12:05 pm

Wurth 2040 or plus gas, and try euro car parts for the links, there is an outlet in St Helens..... https://www.google.com/search?q=euro+ca ... e&ie=UTF-8 , you're not that far from me really...Wigan.
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This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby John&Luke » Thu Apr 30, 2020 1:13 pm

bluelightning wrote:Thank you, I will do that then.

I guess this mornings first task is to find a friendly car parts shop in or near to St Helens so that I can get these Blue Print drops and some decent penetrating oil. Do you have any particular recommendations for the penetrating oil?


Hi, if you get a problem releasing the bottom shock bolt see my thread for one solution.

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6699&start=75

Good luck.

J
1996 Mk1 Classic Red 1.6 sorted
1995 Mk 1 White 1.6 in need of TLC
2015 Mk1 1.8 Exocet Mk1 on steroids
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby bluelightning » Fri May 22, 2020 2:31 pm

Hi, so a little update on progress. I had a nightmare getting the bottom bolt out of the hub carrier, eventually managed to get it out but I had to cut the nut off so had to order a replacement bolt from MX5 parts. I think I have got the last one because they only had one in stock so I hope that the other side goes better. I also had a nightmare getting the old bushes out, they were so degraded that the tube that they sit in had rusted so I had to use a blow torch to melt them out. I don't fancy doing that with the rest of them. Do you think that a Garage Press would have been able to remove them or do you think burning them out was the only option? If a garage press would do it then I will take them to a garage. Some pictures of the rust before and after I cleaned it up.

IMG_1019.jpg
Before Cleaning up the rust
IMG_1019.jpg (483.95 KiB) Viewed 82 times


IMG_1008.jpg
After cleaning up the rust
IMG_1008.jpg (454.55 KiB) Viewed 82 times


DSC_1545.JPG
Burning out the bushes
DSC_1545.JPG (622.28 KiB) Viewed 82 times
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby Mazda Mender » Fri May 22, 2020 3:19 pm

bluelightning wrote: I had to cut the nut off so had to order a replacement bolt from MX5 parts. I think I have got the last one because they only had one in stock so I hope that the other side goes better.


You do realize that you can also use Autolinkmx5 for new or s/hand parts to and we have a members discount code for them.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby bluelightning » Sat May 23, 2020 9:24 am

I did not know that. Thank you I will check them out today. Every day is a school day... :text-thankyouyellow:
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby bluelightning » Sun May 24, 2020 2:06 pm

So making some progress now, one corner is done!

Only problem is I can not get the brake line off to put my new braided hoses on. On this side the flexible cable goes to a junction box that has two hard lines going into it, but I can not undo the hard brake lines. I have tired penetrating fluid, Ive tried blow torch to heat it up, and I am using a proper flare nut spanner but they will not crack. If anyone can offer any assistance as to the next step to remove the junction box then I would be grateful or can point me in the direction of a thread where someone else has had a similar problem then I would be grateful.

DSC_1557 small.jpg
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby blackyb » Sun May 24, 2020 5:37 pm

We sometimes have to resort to a good set of mole grips locked on as tight as you can then wiggle vigorously back and forth. Just make sure the block is solid.

I am always mindful that brake fluid is highly imflammable so I avoid using heat on brake unions.
1993 1.6 Eunos Roadster (gone)
1998 UK Mk 2 1.6 (gone)
2003 1.8 SVT Sport (Why did I sell it - cos the wife said so!!!!)
1991 1.6 Eunos Roadster with a bit of bling.

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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby bluelightning » Sun May 24, 2020 5:52 pm

blackyb wrote:We sometimes have to resort to a good set of mole grips locked on as tight as you can then wiggle vigorously back and forth. Just make sure the block is solid.



Thank you for the advice I will give mole grips a try tomorrow. I am mindful that I need to reuse the connectors on the copper pipe, if they get damaged getting them off, is there a way to replace them? Or am I in big trouble if if I ruin that threaded connector?

Thanks
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby Mazda Mender » Sun May 24, 2020 11:19 pm

Yes please be careful with applying direct heat....surface rust is the issue ,scrape or sand the brake line at the union bag smooth....then soak...leave it locked up to the body bracket with the locking slider clip ..lightly grip the pipe with the mole grips , not to hard to crush..and as bry says ...spray it crack it tighten it..spray it...crack it and tighten it...and so on....there is no medals for rushing here.,

If it snaps you can join and re add fresh pipe and unions....but a word of warning." Do not let air in a abs system...
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.


Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
bluelightning
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Re: Rear Suspension - Meister R and Bushes Install

Postby bluelightning » Wed May 27, 2020 8:58 am

If it can go wrong, it will go wrong for me... I think that will be my new saying, still as you learn from your mistakes I should have my own TV show to rival Car SOS soon because I will have learnt so much by the time this is finished.

So I put the blow torch away as I didn't want to blow myself up and set about gently teasing out the brake unions. I started on the 10mm Union running towards the front of the car but it was not budging, so I soaked it in penetrating fluid and started on the 11mm union on the top. I'm not sure why this is a bigger union but I measured it with a caliper and its definitely 11mm. The issue seemed to be that the pipe bent to run across the car immediately out of the top of the union. So the moment that the union turned an 8th of turn and cracked the brake line just twisted with it. I soaked it in fluid and turned it back and forth but to no avail. Then brake fluid started leaking out of it.

Then to compound my misery both of the bolts connecting the junction box to the suspension arm sheared off as well. I used mole grips to hold it in place whilst I attempted to undo the 10mm union again but it was not shifting. I went back to the 11mm and it just twisted up. So I took some photos, walked away and set about thinking about how to fix it.

I have no choice but to drain the system and replace the hard brake lines. I guess that means I will need to get it recovered to a garage to refill the brake fluid from fresh.

Still at least now I get to learn how to install new Brake lines.

Is there a resource somewhere that I can get the correct specifications for the brake lines and unions? I have a mixture of steel / Nickel pipe and copper and different union sizes which also does not seem right?

I have seen complete kits for £80 but some are copper with AF fixings some are Nickel. I was hoping that I could get a flaring tool from Ebay for £30 add a connector to the brake line running from the font of the car and then replace the entire pipe running across the back of the car.

Some pictures, because everyone likes pictures even if they are painful for me to look at haha...

DSC_1565.jpg
Not a great angle for the picture but there is no straight pipe for the union to screw back up.
DSC_1565.jpg (488.73 KiB) Viewed 37 times


Many thanks,
Attachments
DSC_1566.jpg
The result is a twisted brake line. Replacement now required.
DSC_1566.jpg (531.29 KiB) Viewed 37 times

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