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Good results with aerosols. Simple Guide

This is the section to see what is hidding behind those panels, and how to get rid of the tin worm, cutting out and welding in fresh metal, protection and paint.
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nedski
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Good results with aerosols. Simple Guide

Postby nedski » Sun Sep 29, 2013 5:58 pm

This is a simple guide to spraying with aerosols and getting half decent results. Lots of photo's to help.

Remember the 6 P's. Perfect Preparation Prevents p*ss Poor paintwork. (made that up).

Basically that means get everything as good as possible before the Top Coat. If you don't have a good smooth scratch free finish before you top coat, the imperfections will show up even worse when you paint it.

To fill a dent, primer and paint, you will need. (rough guide)

A grinder with a soft pad
80 and 120 grit production paper
320, 600, 1200 wet and dry
masking tape
Body filler
acrylic putty (optional)
Pannel wipe de-greaser (wax silicone and polish are a painter enemy)
G3 compound
Primer
aerosol basecoat (cellulose)
areosol laquer

Ok so here is a dented wing which i have ground the paint away from and around the dent. I then rubbed around the edges of the ground out area with 120 grit. This gives body filler something to key to and helps prevents rings and sinkage later.
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Wipe the whole area with de-greaser. That means the full pannel. If you dont have any you can compound the whole area with g3 to remove polish.
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Filler
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Filler on wing. When it come to flatting it down Try to use a block. This helps to level everything and remove bumps etc. You can't get it flat with finger ends.
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Sometimes you can't get it in one go and you need a little bit extra in low spots.
TIP. sand the majority off with 80 grit and then switch to 120 grit. The whole prosses is about getting finer and finer with sanding papers. All the scratches need to go!! We then switch to 320 wet/dry to smooth more scratches out and then 600 grit.
The shape is there on this photo and I then switch to finer wet/dry before primer.
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The filler is quite coarse that i have used and has air bubble holes when rubbed back. You can use a finer filler or apply a putty over the top to cover imperfections up.
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Putty added
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The putty is rubbed back with 320 grit and the 600 grit. This will be primed again. At this point Ive also G3 compounded the area that the paint will blend into.
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The area is flatted back with 1200 wet/dry as you can see the finish is nice and smooth ready to paint over.
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Another area getting painted.
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First coat of base coat. This will need around 4 coats. I'm painting upto the crease in the wing top, and on the front bumper it will be blended in.
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This is a first coat of a 2k aerosol laquer. Its a light coat to key the laquer.
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3 coats of laquer. The first was light the second two heavier.
Spray across the panel in straight even strokes with the next stroke half covering the one before.
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Not bad out the can. The pannels can be polished to a higher shine after a few days drying.

Please add any more tips if you have any, or ask away with questions.

Cheers Neil

Just to add this is the paint and laquer I used here.
Image
Mk1 1.6 Turbo. Gaz shocks. Tr Lane roll bar.
Garage Owner, Lincolshire
Helper to the Scunny track day crew and North Linc's Track Day Club.
www.stokesofkelsey.co.uk
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Re: Good results with aerosols. Simple Guide

Postby Mazda Mender » Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:55 am

How did you blow it in.
M-m
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Re: Good results with aerosols. Simple Guide

Postby nedski » Mon Sep 30, 2013 1:04 pm

Blending into a pannel.
Not the easiest thing to explain in words, so here is another picture. It has lines to denote how far each coat reaches along the wing. Also the whole wing is compounded with g3 to help the paint key.

Red line- Repair and primer.

Blue line- Three heavy coats of base coat colour or enough to cover the primer underneath.

Green line- This is a light waft of paint from the blue line towards the yellow. Heavier application of paint near the blue line but virtually nothing towards the yellow line. This fade allows the original colour underneath to show through at the yellow line, but slowly get covered by your new paint towards the blue line. ( clear as mud eh). This is your fade or blend area for colour. Without a good blend area it is easy to see the transition from new to old paint.

Yellow line- The whole area upto the yellow line gets lacquered, also waft a little towards towards the black line. Don't just stop dead. As you blend out the lacquer it will have an orange peel texture. This can be polished back when its dry. Or use fade out spary to held fade out the lacquer.

Black line- Around here you will have an orange peel lacquer edge. a very very very light application of fade out spray will help greatly with your lacquer edge. Be care full with this spray as it kind of melts the lacquer and will cause runs if your not carefull. But when it's dry it's much better to polish up.

Image

This is the fade out spray I used on the lacquer.
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This is the finished and polished up wing. The paint is not rock hard yet as its air dried not baked in an oven. So
I have buffed it up by hand with G3 compound and then a coat of polish.

Image

Cheers Neil
Mk1 1.6 Turbo. Gaz shocks. Tr Lane roll bar.
Garage Owner, Lincolshire
Helper to the Scunny track day crew and North Linc's Track Day Club.
www.stokesofkelsey.co.uk
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Re: Good results with aerosols. Simple Guide

Postby paggers » Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:10 am

Good write up, thanks. May help to improve my [appalling] spray-can skills.
Niall


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Re: Good results with aerosols. Simple Guide

Postby flea » Tue Oct 08, 2013 4:52 pm

:handgestures-thumbup: Well done
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