***PART ONE****
This is a walk through guide on retro fitting the OE keyless entry system which is for the 2001-2005 MX5's and this is aimed at the 1.6 and basic version 1.8's. The reason for this: it is easier to fit the OE system rather than an aftermarket system off the bay of E. This is because from 1989 - 1997, MK 1's and the MK 2's from 1998- 2001 use a rod system in the door for the push and pull while the the MK 2 from 2001-2005 use a cable system so aftermarket units are more difficult to fit, but we may cover that at a later stage.
Now there are two systems, VISTEON and NALDEC with the fobs also that match and as far as we are aware, they are compatible with each other. The first part of the guide is about installing the cab system for the door locks to work while the second part is wiring in the boot release( watch this space).
***Double clicking on the images will make them larger for viewing, wiring diagrams also have a PDF download***
So you will need..
For getting the door locks working..
1 x OE keyless entry box
1 x OE keyless entry box power plug and a bit of loom
1 x OE keyless entry fob( more if required and programmed in)
1 x 10 mm nut
For getting the rear boot release working..
1 x length of single wire to run from the boot to the dash
1 x length of wire from the electric aerial plug
1 x B110 relay
1 x B110 relay socket with loom
1 x OE boot latch with a ad plug and a bit of loom
Tools needed/recommended...
1 x roll of PVC electrical tape
1 x soldering iron and solder
1 x wire strippers
1 x crimping pliers
1 x crimping earth connection
1 x 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 10 mm socket
1 x volt tester
1 x wire feeding rod
1 x phillps driver
1 x torx bit number T35
Selection of solder joints and heat source...
So the first thing we need to do is acquire the bits. You should be prepared for a bit of a hunt around; in particular, we do not like cutting plugs and loom if I can avoid it and in the end, Autolink MX5, Callum Bishell and Harry Weare helped us with the bits needed to do this guide. We did contact Prestige Spares UK who just deal with the MK 2's and that became a total faf and a waste of time and let down(sorry John),also thank you to john and Steve for their time in finalizing the guide for everyone to use.
The unit sent to us was a NALDEC unit along with NALDEC fob and to be honest it is a very easy simple mod to install and took 20-30 minutes to have it working. When the unit arrived, the plug and loom were too short so the first thing to do was to extend the wires ready for fitting, then try to work out the wiring combination, which was easier said than done, but once figured out and a diagram was penned off, it was Thunderbirds Are Go..
Unit, plug, loom( after extending) and fob...
Remove the glove box by opening and pulling on the right side to pop the holding hinge clip, once popped push over to the left and lift free and out of the way...
Look for the large loom plug and socket, we will be connecting into the left side so releasing off the bracket and splitting it helps with the tight area to work in...
Get the wire strippers, soldering iron ,solder and PVC tape, and the new plug and loom for the control box,you will also need the crimpers and earth crimp connector strip the wires in the centres the expose the inner core wires to twist the new plug wires to ,so that they can be soldered to solid on the main loom one at a time , solder in and cover with PVC tape, which follows as such...
The Blue with Red chaser wire from the new plug and loom goes to the Orange wire on the main loom,
The White with Red chaser wire from the new plug and loom goes to the White with Red chaser wire on the main loom,
The Black with Yellow chaser wire from the new plug and loom ,goes to the Black with Yellow chaser wire on the main loom,
The Purple wire from the new plug and loom ,goes to the Purple wire on the main loom,
The Black wire gets a crimped on earth connection to be bolted in place with the control box bracket,
The Red with White Chaser wire from the new plug an loom does not need to be connected as it is for the boot latch signal( more on that later)
Once everything is soldered into place, ,use the PVC tape and wrap it all up nice and neat as this is now a fixed permanent fixture. Get your black wire with the earth crimped on connection and get your control box , 10 mm nut 1/4 drive ratchet, extension 10 mm socket and align the bracket on the fixing stud, slide the earth connector on and spin the 10mm nut on and tighten up with the ratchet to secure solid in place...
Push your new plug into the control box , and you should hear the relay engage behind the dash,if the fob was not from the same MX as the unit then you will need to go through the fob pairing procedure below.
And believe it or not, thats it, its in. Tidy up the new loom piece, tape up the rear boot lock signal wire for possible use at a later date - if going down that route. Put the glove box back in and enjoy your keyless entry with the OE fob looking all original...
click on the video below....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1PfBPA6SVU
2001 - 2005 Mazda MX-5, Roadster, Miata Remote Programming Instructions for the 1.6 and 1.8 ....
Open the driver's door and leave it open.
Lock and Unlock the driver's door using the power door switch on the door.
Insert the key into the ignition.
Turn key to ON then OFF position. Do this 3 times in 10 seconds. Leave the key in the ignition in the LOCK (off) position.
Close and open the driver's door 3 times leaving the door open.
Vehicle will respond by locking and unlocking door locks once.
Press any button on the remote two times. Vehicle will respond by locking and unlocking door locks once.
For additional remotes repeat step 7 now for up to 3 remotes total.
Remove the key from the ignition and the vehicle will respond by cycling locks automatically. Get out of the car with keys and test remote(s).
What you put in, you'll get back ten fold
***** THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO THE SITE AND HELPING YOU,OTHERWISE IT CLOSES AND ALL THIS ON LINE GARAGE IS GONE FOR GOOD*****
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
Fitting keyless locking to a NBFL....
- Mazda Mender
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- Posts: 15168
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- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
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Fitting keyless locking to a NBFL....
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The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15168
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: Fitting keyless locking to a NBFL....
***PART TWO***
Joining the mazda OE remote keyless entry control box to the rear boot release system....
For getting the rear boot release working..
1 x length of single wire to run from the boot to the dash
1 x length of wire from the electric aerial plug
1 x B110 relay
1 x B110 relay socket with loom
1 x OE boot latch with a ad plug and a bit of loom
Tools needed/recommended...
1 x roll of PVC electrical tape
1 x soldering iron and solder
1 x wire strippers
1 x crimping pliers
1 x crimping earth connection
1 x 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 10 mm socket
1 x volt tester
1 x wire feeding rod
1 x phillps driver
1 x torx bit number T35
Selection of solder joints and heat source...
I'll assume we are carrying on from the front already in bits?
***Double clicking on the images will make them larger for viewing, wiring diagrams also have a PDF download***
Remove the kick plate by getting your fingers underneath it and pulling up wards with a hard yang, it should pop free and put it out of the way safe...
Pull the rubber A post seal off to roughly where the dash starts,and remove the side wall trim by the trim button ( lift the centre out until it stops and pull the whole thing out) and then get your hands top and bottom and yang into the foot well to release the metal sprung clip that holds it in place...
Remove the B post edge trim...
now remove the B post cap by the phillps head screw on the top and the phillps head screw touneo clip with a medium phillips driver and just lift and push out of the way, there is no need to remove it fully....
Remove the B post piller trims joiner trim piece and pop up the seat belt edge trim....
Remove the side striker plate for the Hard top( if fitted) by the 2 x bolts with the 35 torx bit and pop the trim panel free from the post only there is no need to fully remove it from the piller..
Now into the boot..
Remove the carpet panel trim from around the boot with the lift centre trim buttons, the plastic bucket on the passenger side by way of 1 x phillips head screw in its centre , and remove the fuel pipe shield by the 3 x 10 mm head bolts with the 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 10 mm socket...
Remove the boot latch by releasing the lock rod by pressing down on the plastic knuckle and pulling down and pull the rod out, and again with the 1/4 drive ratchet and 10 mm socket ,remove the 2 x 10 mm head bolts that hold the latch in place, then pop the cable holder from the frame and remove the cable from the latch,and remove the old latch and fit the new one the same just in reverse order...
Now get your wire feeder rod and cable , tape the cable to the rod so its like a huge needle and lift the B post panel away from the post and tread the rod off into the boot, go around into the boot and pull the rod and cable through nice and neat to the new boot latch following the loom and leave it there ready, now back to the cab and route the cable neat behind the panel an in/through the empty trunking that runs along the inner sill to the front and feed it up and over the the control box we fitted earlier with some play...
Strip back the cable on the cable that as been threaded through from the boot and strip back the Red with White chaser wire from the control box for the rear boot lock trigger , now it is your choice on how you would like to join them together , we have used solder sleeves ,once this is connected, neaten things up and we are done with the front...
back to the boot...
Go to the electric Aerial and there is 3 x cables going to the plug, the Blue with Red chaser wire is the one we need to tape into which is a constant 12 volt live, so strip a piece of the cable back and solder a new wire to it, cover with your PVC electrical tap and follow the loom with the latch wire around the OE loom to the new latch securing with cable ties and label the cables with what they are ,12 v live and boot trigger..
Cut the Red and Black cable plug off the new latch, strip the end of the Black cable and crimp a earth connector on , remove the 10 mm head bolt holding the latch on the left hand side with the ratchet and 10 mm socket ,add the earth connector and re tighten back down again
Get the relay, now there are two relay set ups that can be used and i will add both wiring diagrams that will be easy to follow regardless of cable colours, the relay needed is a OE B110, but a B150 can be used to make up the circuit, the relay and base we are using is correct but is from a different part of the Mx so the colours will not match the OE colours for this system,so even though I will mention them, use the diagrams as its about the pin outs to the right connections orientation, we joined up with the solder tubes...
The diagram will be of better help, but here is the wiring for this relay...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From the Aerial (12 volt live)..Blue with Red chaser cable( your colour of choice tap in cable) to the Red with White chaser and the Red on the relay
From the new latch ...Red to the Mustard colour on the Relay
From the control box behind the Glove box ( boot trigger )....Red with White chaser cable ( your colour of choice for feed to the boot) to Mustard on the Relay
From the new latch ....Black to body earth
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The other easier to get relay with the 4 pin square base is also a OE B110 from else where on these Mx's but can also be used Its not about the colours but where they connect to on the relay...
From the Aerial (12 volt live)..Blue with Red chaser cable( your colour of choice tap in cable) to the Blue with Black chaser and the Black on the relay
From the new latch ...Red to the Blue colour on the Relay
From the control box behind the Glove box ( boot trigger )....Red with White chaser cable ( your colour of choice for feed to the boot) to Pink on the Relay
From the new latch ....Black to body earth
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now just plug the plug the other plug off the latch into the boot light switch/number plate light, if it as never been used ,then you might find a piece of black sponge in the socket, remove it and plug it in...
Test the boot release, if you have already programmed the fob to work on the system then it should work straight away,Tidy everything up, put your tools away ,put the boot back together and put the cab all back together again in reverse of removal...
If you have found this guide to of been useful and saved you a garage bill , please think about giving a donation to help keep the site going for many others also to use.
M-m
Joining the mazda OE remote keyless entry control box to the rear boot release system....
For getting the rear boot release working..
1 x length of single wire to run from the boot to the dash
1 x length of wire from the electric aerial plug
1 x B110 relay
1 x B110 relay socket with loom
1 x OE boot latch with a ad plug and a bit of loom
Tools needed/recommended...
1 x roll of PVC electrical tape
1 x soldering iron and solder
1 x wire strippers
1 x crimping pliers
1 x crimping earth connection
1 x 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 10 mm socket
1 x volt tester
1 x wire feeding rod
1 x phillps driver
1 x torx bit number T35
Selection of solder joints and heat source...
I'll assume we are carrying on from the front already in bits?
***Double clicking on the images will make them larger for viewing, wiring diagrams also have a PDF download***
Remove the kick plate by getting your fingers underneath it and pulling up wards with a hard yang, it should pop free and put it out of the way safe...
Pull the rubber A post seal off to roughly where the dash starts,and remove the side wall trim by the trim button ( lift the centre out until it stops and pull the whole thing out) and then get your hands top and bottom and yang into the foot well to release the metal sprung clip that holds it in place...
Remove the B post edge trim...
now remove the B post cap by the phillps head screw on the top and the phillps head screw touneo clip with a medium phillips driver and just lift and push out of the way, there is no need to remove it fully....
Remove the B post piller trims joiner trim piece and pop up the seat belt edge trim....
Remove the side striker plate for the Hard top( if fitted) by the 2 x bolts with the 35 torx bit and pop the trim panel free from the post only there is no need to fully remove it from the piller..
Now into the boot..
Remove the carpet panel trim from around the boot with the lift centre trim buttons, the plastic bucket on the passenger side by way of 1 x phillips head screw in its centre , and remove the fuel pipe shield by the 3 x 10 mm head bolts with the 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 10 mm socket...
Remove the boot latch by releasing the lock rod by pressing down on the plastic knuckle and pulling down and pull the rod out, and again with the 1/4 drive ratchet and 10 mm socket ,remove the 2 x 10 mm head bolts that hold the latch in place, then pop the cable holder from the frame and remove the cable from the latch,and remove the old latch and fit the new one the same just in reverse order...
Now get your wire feeder rod and cable , tape the cable to the rod so its like a huge needle and lift the B post panel away from the post and tread the rod off into the boot, go around into the boot and pull the rod and cable through nice and neat to the new boot latch following the loom and leave it there ready, now back to the cab and route the cable neat behind the panel an in/through the empty trunking that runs along the inner sill to the front and feed it up and over the the control box we fitted earlier with some play...
Strip back the cable on the cable that as been threaded through from the boot and strip back the Red with White chaser wire from the control box for the rear boot lock trigger , now it is your choice on how you would like to join them together , we have used solder sleeves ,once this is connected, neaten things up and we are done with the front...
back to the boot...
Go to the electric Aerial and there is 3 x cables going to the plug, the Blue with Red chaser wire is the one we need to tape into which is a constant 12 volt live, so strip a piece of the cable back and solder a new wire to it, cover with your PVC electrical tap and follow the loom with the latch wire around the OE loom to the new latch securing with cable ties and label the cables with what they are ,12 v live and boot trigger..
Cut the Red and Black cable plug off the new latch, strip the end of the Black cable and crimp a earth connector on , remove the 10 mm head bolt holding the latch on the left hand side with the ratchet and 10 mm socket ,add the earth connector and re tighten back down again
Get the relay, now there are two relay set ups that can be used and i will add both wiring diagrams that will be easy to follow regardless of cable colours, the relay needed is a OE B110, but a B150 can be used to make up the circuit, the relay and base we are using is correct but is from a different part of the Mx so the colours will not match the OE colours for this system,so even though I will mention them, use the diagrams as its about the pin outs to the right connections orientation, we joined up with the solder tubes...
The diagram will be of better help, but here is the wiring for this relay...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From the Aerial (12 volt live)..Blue with Red chaser cable( your colour of choice tap in cable) to the Red with White chaser and the Red on the relay
From the new latch ...Red to the Mustard colour on the Relay
From the control box behind the Glove box ( boot trigger )....Red with White chaser cable ( your colour of choice for feed to the boot) to Mustard on the Relay
From the new latch ....Black to body earth
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The other easier to get relay with the 4 pin square base is also a OE B110 from else where on these Mx's but can also be used Its not about the colours but where they connect to on the relay...
From the Aerial (12 volt live)..Blue with Red chaser cable( your colour of choice tap in cable) to the Blue with Black chaser and the Black on the relay
From the new latch ...Red to the Blue colour on the Relay
From the control box behind the Glove box ( boot trigger )....Red with White chaser cable ( your colour of choice for feed to the boot) to Pink on the Relay
From the new latch ....Black to body earth
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now just plug the plug the other plug off the latch into the boot light switch/number plate light, if it as never been used ,then you might find a piece of black sponge in the socket, remove it and plug it in...
Test the boot release, if you have already programmed the fob to work on the system then it should work straight away,Tidy everything up, put your tools away ,put the boot back together and put the cab all back together again in reverse of removal...
If you have found this guide to of been useful and saved you a garage bill , please think about giving a donation to help keep the site going for many others also to use.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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