There are a number of factors that come into play when picking a skin for your Roadster...
1) Budget... we all have one.
2) Usage... daily slogger, Weekends and high days only or summer toy; locked away through winter? Used all year around? Does it get folded away with a HT in winter?
3) Look/colour/material... personal choice, but this will also merge with points 1 & 2.
This walk through guide will take you through the full process of removing the frame from the Roadster. Checking and cleaning ready for re-fitment, de-skinning the frame, all the issues that you could hit on de-skinning (links will be added as spin off instructions for other problems you could hit). Then re-skinning the frame, re-fitting the frame back to the Roadster and closing the roof for the first time. All done the Mendermania way of correct...
Anyone trying this for the first time I personally would give yourself a day or weekend to get your head around it. There are no points for rushing this, you want it right, no one is expecting to see you do it as fast as the guys that have done hundreds...
We have tried to cover everything, if there are any questions, please just ask. It will look like a daunting task to anyone that is attempting this for the first time with how long this looks with all the pics. It's just that we have tried to show and cover everything, the whole procedure in case you forget where a bolt or nut came from. I highly recommend fitting brand new tension cables, please do not reuse your old ones, they are old, stretched and worn. Fit for the bin.
We will be using a MK 2 NB for this guide (and you will see from the pics that it turned into a bit of a challenge from "BODGED IT") but the process is the same on a MK 1 NA; bar the heated rear window and support straps and a few more little bits that we will add into the guide. Although, the MK 2/2.5 NB frame and skin can be fitted to a Mk 1 NA as an upgrade. The Mk 1 NA had a zip out plastic rear window as standard. There are two options available to upgrade to the later MK 2/2.5 NB. Either a straight swap to a MK 2/2.5 NB frame and skin, or convert the MK 1 NA frame with a webbing kit that helps to tension the frame/window. Even if doing either of the conversions to a MK 1 NA we also highly recommend fitting new tension cables and side lifter brackets from the MK 2/2.5 NB, the electrics, relays and switches will be linked in to follow. As everything is plug and play in the MK 1 NA from the 1990 onwards, you just need to add 3 items for the HRW to work, very early MK 1 NA's did not have the plug and play harness loom, but can be retro fitted, please ask.
Please be aware that the MK 1 NA and the MK 2/2.5 have different tension cables and springs ...***re-useing the old tension cable springs are fine ,there is no need to buy new ones unless missing or broken....(aftermarket tension cables were supplied by Autolinkmx5 for this guide)...
Mk 1 NA tension cables and spring 63 cm...
https://www.autolinkmx5.com/soft-top-si ... -115-p.asp
Mk 1 NA tension spring....
MK 2/2.5 NB tension cables and spring 53 cm....
https://www.autolinkmx5.com/soft-top-te ... -400-p.asp
MK 2/2.5 NB tension spring....
Items needed...
New skin of choice
Tension cables (tension cables supplied by Autolinkmx5 for this guide)
Webbing tension kit (if converting a MK 1 NA frame to take a MK 2/2.5 skin) or just using a Mk 2/2.5 NB frame and skin
Side lifter brackets (only needed if converting a Mk 1 NA to take a MK 2/2.5 skin, Mk 2/2.5 already have them)
Trim tool
Medium and large Phillips turner outers
Pointed pliers
Rivet gun manual or air line (using a air line in this guide)
2x aluminium rivets 6-8mm head 4mm x 15mm long, 6-8mm head 4mm x 12mm long, 8x aluminium rivets If not supplied with the new skin (you do NOT need any for the rain rail)
Utility knife
Drill & drill bit
1/4" drive ratchet
1/4" drive extensions
1/4" 10mm socket
3/8 drive ratchet
3/8 drive extensions
3/8 drive 10mm and 12mm sockets
1/2" drive ratchet
1/2" drive extensions
1/2" drive 14 mm socket
T40 driver bit
Rubber dead blow hammer
Flat punches
Wipes
kettle + water
Drain rodding tool
Aluminium tape
Copper grease
Part one......The strip down of the roadster
So onto the challenge that arrived...
They got their monies worth out of this... never leave one to get this bad please... after removing the duck/gaffer tape... what you cannot see is the clear silicon that has been injected into all the holes, which is on the frame etc, it is a mess. Proper bodged!
So after I got over the shock and finally finished laughing. It was time to roll up the sleeves, pull up the socks and get to it. As you can see, I picked a bad un for this guide, but everything problem wise you could hit was on this swap and some as you will see. The issues I hit will be sorted into spin off guides and linked so it does not get too confusing...
So drop the hood and remove both seats, we do this just to give us some good room to move as they are not the biggest to work in even with the seats removed...
Get your 1/2" ratchet, extension and 14mm socket. Push the seat forward and get the rear anchor bolts from the seat runners out first. Once out, push the seat back and do the fronts...
Now lift the seat and check for any wiring plugs and unplug them, and then remove the seat from the roadster, and do the same on the other side...
Now remove the kick plates, on the Mk 2/2.5 NB that we are using for this guide you just grab a hold of the end and lift, give it a sharp pull upwards and it will pop out of the body as you move your way along, put somewhere safe.
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With the Mk 1 NA they are held in place with 4x s/steel phillips head screws. Which need to be removed first and they are stuck down in place with double sided tape on the outside edge.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Once the kick plate is removed... move onto the top plastic pillar caps and rain run trim as it is a one piece item. Unscrew the phillips head screw on the top and the tonneau cover button with the phillips screw driver also. Pop the trim button out of the body and put the cap and fixed rubber trim, somewhere safe or just hinge it towards you...
Then on to the side panel tonneau cover button which is held in place by a phillips head screw, and a trim button (lift the centre of the trim button out first until it comes to a stop, then pull out by the outer edge)...
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With the Mk 1 NA the cap is separate from the rubber trim, and is metal, the tonneau cover stud on the side is a lift dot stud and needs to be removed with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 10mm socket. You also need to remove the phillips head screw on top, then the cap can be removed and put safe with the fixing...
Unscrew the phillips head screw on the top......
Then on to the side panel tonneau cover lift dot stud which is removed with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 10mm socket and a trim button... (lift the centre of the trim button out first, until it comes to a stop, then pull it out by the outer edge)...
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Now remove the body edge trim and put it somewhere safe...
Now remove the Hard top side strikers (if fitted) which are held in place with a T40 torx bit and put them somewhere safe...
Remove the rear trim piece and put somewhere safe....
Then pull up the seat belt trim edge, which just lifts off free and stays on the belt...
Someone had been messing on this roadster and never put it back correct?
**********PLEASE NOTE....... you may need to remove the MK 2/2.5 NB windblocker if fitted first, as some are not like this one, like the MK 1 NA, or a style bar. There are too many different types on the market to cover the removal of everyone out there. So, if you are stuck, get in touch.*************
Then you can pop the pillar panel free from the body, there are two metal click-in place clips and guides... it is just a case of getting your hands behind it and popping it off... now it does open up at the back to slide the belt through...
On the MK 2/2.5 NB versions only there is another trim piece on the rear of the pillar, so while the roof is down remove the trim button by lifting out the centre bit first and then pulling it free from the out side edge...
Then bring the hood up so you can pull it free and remove it. The passenger side one will have the HRW socket clicked into place. Squeeze on the tabs together on the back with some pliers once the trim is free from the body, and release it from the trim panel...
Move to the other side and follow the same procedure. Once done, now remove the rear deck/parcel shelf carpet... lift the hood and I recommend putting something on the floor to cushion your knees while doing all this from here on in. Get your phillips turner outer and remove the pinch studs on either side of the rear deck behind the pillar...
Once they are removed we can now move onto the carpet. Get your trim tool (Tip: an old fork will do this also, just don't tell the good lady) and just start to remove the trim buttons that hold the carpet in place...
Now with it having a HRW, don't forget to unplug the window wiring from the pig tail loom...
If it's a MK 2 NB with the earth cut out switch on the frame, click on this link...
viewtopic.php?f=132&t=2833
Now you can remove the rear deck carpet...
Now remove the 6x 12mm head bolts that hold the main roof frame hinge to the body of the roadster with the 3/8 Ratchet and 12mm socket... remove them and put somewhere safe....
Now to remove the roof and rain rail side brackets only at this point. They are held in by 6x 10mm nuts (3 each side) remove with the 1/4" drive ratchet + extensions and 10mm socket. Start with the two side brackets first, for the closest to the B post there is a hole already in place to get to the 10mm nut. Be careful not to drop the nut into the body work or drainage tube when removed...
viewtopic.php?f=114&t=5634
The reason for this will become clear further down the line...
Once the side brackets are removed on the MK 2/2.5 NB pull the support strap off the rear stud on both sides...
Now get your utility knife and cut the skin along the rear deck belt line... so we are cutting the roof away from the rain rail...
Making sure you cut it also free from the rain rail and main hinge...
Once it is cut free, fold the roof back down and get someone to help you lift it out and clear of the roadster...
Now we can undo the rest of the 10mm bolts that hold the middle section hood/rain rail bracket...
So get the trim tool and pop the trim buttons off the rear belt line edge trim that holds the rain rail still to the body work. Then pull it out and up to release it from the body...
Now we can remove the rain rail. There are a number of reasons we do it this way, the MK 1 and MK 2 rain rails are made of a brittle plastic at the front and back and can break, crack and split easily. Plus, if it has not been replaced before, the skin would of been pot-riveted together at the factory on all models so trying to get it off with the roof frame will damage it, the Mk 2.5 rain rail is made of a far better, rubbery plastic, so is more flexible to be handled without causing damage. Plus, with doing it this way the rain rail stays in shape better with the skin helping as a support so is easier to be lifted out in one horse shoe shape after the frame as been removed...
Now take the opportunity to clean all the back deck, belt line, drainage trays, drainage tubes, etc etc, before you build everything back up. Bacterial wipes are perfect for this and hot water and a trombone cleaner for the drainage tubes.
So thats the strip down done, on to part two...
M-m
What you put in, you'll get back ten fold
***** THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO THE SITE AND HELPING YOU,OTHERWISE IT CLOSES AND ALL THIS ON LINE GARAGE IS GONE FOR GOOD*****
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
MK 1/ 2/2.5 fitting a new hood skin to a frame( FULL WALK THROUGH GUIDE )
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15090
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
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MK 1/ 2/2.5 fitting a new hood skin to a frame( FULL WALK THROUGH GUIDE )
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15090
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK 1/ 2/2.5 fitting a new hood skin to a frame
PART TWO :- prepping your rain rail.....
Once the rain rail is clear of the Roadster, it is time to prep the rain rail ready for the new skin to be fixed. We do this first simply because we are going to wash it inside and out and by the time we have reskined the frame it will be dry which can also be wiped dry a towel/rags to speed it up a little if needed and then can repair it if needed to be before final fitment...
So off the Roadster .....
And in this case it has been a OEM skin so the pop rivets will need removing, there are a number of ways, but I prefer to drill the heads off and pull them through as it causes the least damage, you might need to hold the rivet on the stud side with pliers if it starts to spin, the drill bit being used is a cone drill bit and was to hand while doing this guide..but a 5 or 6mm hss drill bit will do ...
Once you have removed all the pop rivets and the remainder of the old skin that was sandwiched inbetween, it is time to clean it and check for any cracks, splits or tears which if handled wrongly can easily happen with the Mk1 NA and Mk2 NB brittle plastic rain rails....
Once cleaned and rinsed, hang it over something to drain off and dry, you can speed this up by drying it yourself if wished with a towel etc..
We will assume that you have dried it yourself, the old pop rivet holes will need covering over as will any cracks,rips,splits or tears, DO NOT use duck tape/gaffer tape etc for a number of reasons some brands dry out over time and loose their seal, and some go sticky and gooey which also looses it's seal, that is why we recommend using silver alloy tape, it does not loose its luster and can be easily moulded into shape depending on which bit needs repairing, silver alloy tape can be purchased at DIY stores and the Bay of E etc.
The Mk 2.5 NB rain rail is made from a far better rubber and a lot of people upgrade to this with the Mk 1 NA and Mk 2 NB's, but the rivet holes will still need covering over..
This is a link to tell the difference between the two materials of OEM rain rails and how to repair if needed...
viewtopic.php?f=132&t=5635
So rain rail sorted, now to de-skining the frame, now onto part three.....
M-m
Once the rain rail is clear of the Roadster, it is time to prep the rain rail ready for the new skin to be fixed. We do this first simply because we are going to wash it inside and out and by the time we have reskined the frame it will be dry which can also be wiped dry a towel/rags to speed it up a little if needed and then can repair it if needed to be before final fitment...
So off the Roadster .....
And in this case it has been a OEM skin so the pop rivets will need removing, there are a number of ways, but I prefer to drill the heads off and pull them through as it causes the least damage, you might need to hold the rivet on the stud side with pliers if it starts to spin, the drill bit being used is a cone drill bit and was to hand while doing this guide..but a 5 or 6mm hss drill bit will do ...
Once you have removed all the pop rivets and the remainder of the old skin that was sandwiched inbetween, it is time to clean it and check for any cracks, splits or tears which if handled wrongly can easily happen with the Mk1 NA and Mk2 NB brittle plastic rain rails....
Once cleaned and rinsed, hang it over something to drain off and dry, you can speed this up by drying it yourself if wished with a towel etc..
We will assume that you have dried it yourself, the old pop rivet holes will need covering over as will any cracks,rips,splits or tears, DO NOT use duck tape/gaffer tape etc for a number of reasons some brands dry out over time and loose their seal, and some go sticky and gooey which also looses it's seal, that is why we recommend using silver alloy tape, it does not loose its luster and can be easily moulded into shape depending on which bit needs repairing, silver alloy tape can be purchased at DIY stores and the Bay of E etc.
The Mk 2.5 NB rain rail is made from a far better rubber and a lot of people upgrade to this with the Mk 1 NA and Mk 2 NB's, but the rivet holes will still need covering over..
This is a link to tell the difference between the two materials of OEM rain rails and how to repair if needed...
viewtopic.php?f=132&t=5635
So rain rail sorted, now to de-skining the frame, now onto part three.....
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15090
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK 1/ 2/2.5 fitting a new hood skin to a frame
PART THREE :- DE-SKINNING THE FRAME AND PREPPING IT
Get yourself somewhere to work that is big enough , if you are working on the floor put something down to work on that will not damage or mark anything. An easier way is to get two work mates/trestles or similar and put a board on top as a nice work table...
Now open up the hood and lock it into place and get your utility knife,( you do not need to do this at this stage, you can do it while removing all the rivets in section 2, but i do it after because it makes the frame easier to handle without all the old dead skin on)........
And cut as much of the skin free from the frame, and throw the old skin in the bin...
So now we can turn the frame over to start to take the jigsaw all part....
Starting with the header rail latches which are removed by the 3 x large phillips head screws....
Check the condition of the plastic guide latch nipple covers, if they are broken, cracked or missing then I highly recommend that you replace them. They are important for making sure the latch sits correct into the windscreen surround striker brackets, if they are missing it can make the roof leak...
Once the two latches are off and safe...we can remove the header rail bracket, on the MK 2/2.5 NB there are 4 x small phillips head screws, on the MK 1 NA there are 6 X small phillips head screw and put them somewhere safe...
Next is the frontmost seal which is removed by way of 2 x small phillips head screws and then just pull it free from it's s/steel holding bracket whitch is held in place by 3 x small s/steel phillips head screws , remove them and pull the bracket free from the frame and put somewhere safe....
Next is the rearmost seal, pull the seal out of the frame until it come to a stop. It is held in place by 2 x plastic trim buttons. You will need your trim tool and need to get under the seal to the frame and lever them free the front first and then the back. Once free, you will need to remove the s/steel bracket from the frame by way of the 3 x small s/steel screws that hold it in place. Once removed, pull the s/steel bracket free from the frame and put somewhere safe....
Now to the roof edge protector ( if fitted) which is held in place by a 1 x small phillips head screw, remove the screw and bracket and put somewhere safe...
Or it may of been a phillips head screw at some point in its life....
****Go to section seven if it is rotten on how to get them out at the bottom of this guide.....*****
Once the screw is out put the edge protector safe with the other items from off that side...
Now repeat everything on the other side and store separate and safe , it will help to keep the items together on the side they have been removed from to make it easier to re-build the jigsaw again...
Then we need to remove the bits of the hold skin that is left...get your trim tool and widen the holding clamp open to release the skin, there is no need to over do the forcing open, it is a soft metal, leave this open for the time being....
Now it is time for the drill and drill bit...
Get your drill and bit, I am using a large cone step down drill bit to drill the heads off, now it does not matter where you start as long as everything is removed ...
So starting at the back ( roof upside down) drill out the pop rivet heads that are holding the skin to the frame, don't go mad they are only alloy pop rivets...
Now either pull the rivet out from the back with pliers or push them through from the front with your phillips driver...
You may need to drill down the rest of the rivet if it is still in there fast, be careful as the metal of the frame where the rivets holes are is not overly thick so don't go mad, we do not want bigger holes...
Now on to the two higher up near the main hinge, same again for removal....
Move to the other side and repeat...
Now to the tension cables...
Fold the frame or half close it to take the tension off the tension cables and get a large phillips head screw driver and remove the phillps head bolt from the frame that holds the tension spring...
Repeat on the other side while it is off tension...
Now feed the cable and spring through the frame...
Drill and bit back out again...
We need to now remove the tension cable fixing points from the header rail, now this is easier done with the frame the right way around, drill the pop rivets heads off as before....
If the are stuck fast from the swelling of the rivet ,than just give them another quick buzz with the drill again, you can also use the trim tool to help lever them free, please be careful as the header rail metal is thin....
If you are left with the rivet sitting proud and will not push through, then do as we did before and drill it down a bit more to the frame, please be careful as mentioned it is thin, so take your time, and then just push the dead rivet out..
Put the old cables safe, we will need to re-use the tension springs again...
If it is a Mk 2/2.5 NB frame ( MK 1 NA frame does not have these)there are two more screws that you may or may not be lucky with,as they rust very easy and no one puts them back in with a dab of grease...
Now there are a couple of ways we can remove these, 1) remove the material and spray with an freeing up oil and try and remove them with mole grips...2) cut a slot across the head and freeing up spray with a flat screw driver with a spanner head for leverage , back and forth until out, 3) go all Jeremy Clarkson on it and drill the head off, file flat and drill the remainder of the stud out and use a small self tapper on re-build, painting where you filed down...No 3 was the option for this frame as it had seen far better days, and gave me every challenge fitting a skin could give...
Change the drill bit for a 4 mm drill bit and drill out the stud if you go down this route...
And thats is ,all stripped....
Now is the time to do any kind of revamp, any surface rust can be rubbed down and repainted if wished and left to dry before the build back up.
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****THIS SECTION IS ONLY IF USING A MK2/2.5 ROOF FRAME****
Get your pliers and lift the spring out of the hole in the support frame and pull it to the inner area of the frame and push forward to release the other hook of the spring off the other section of the frame and then just remove the spring off the frame spike/lug....
This is not 100% needed to do, but is worth doing while it is all apart. The closing springs on the rear most support can over time lose thier tension for that section to spring back when dropping the roof. This is very simple to solve now by removing the springs off the frame and re-tensioning...
While we are at the stage of a clean frame having the frame the right way or upside down makes no difference for this...
Locate the rear support tension spring Only on the MK 2/2.5 NB frames( Mk 2.5 support tension springs were upgraded )....
Get your pliers and lift the spring out of the hole in the support frame and pull it to the inner area of the frame and push forward to release the other hook of the spring off the other section of the frame and then just remove the spring off the frame spike/lug....
Now get a pair of mole grips or similar and clamp down on the spring coil at the start of the longest hook ...
Now with your pliers or similar bend the longest hook towards the mole grips, we are bending the hook so it will put tension on the frame support closing better...
The two springs.... the one on the top is the one we have re-tensioned and the one on the bottom is un-tensioned....
Now it is a case of bending the other one the same and just re-fitting to the frame support, doing this will help when dropping the roof and the frame clsing up together better..
Lets get to part four.....
Get yourself somewhere to work that is big enough , if you are working on the floor put something down to work on that will not damage or mark anything. An easier way is to get two work mates/trestles or similar and put a board on top as a nice work table...
Now open up the hood and lock it into place and get your utility knife,( you do not need to do this at this stage, you can do it while removing all the rivets in section 2, but i do it after because it makes the frame easier to handle without all the old dead skin on)........
And cut as much of the skin free from the frame, and throw the old skin in the bin...
So now we can turn the frame over to start to take the jigsaw all part....
Starting with the header rail latches which are removed by the 3 x large phillips head screws....
Check the condition of the plastic guide latch nipple covers, if they are broken, cracked or missing then I highly recommend that you replace them. They are important for making sure the latch sits correct into the windscreen surround striker brackets, if they are missing it can make the roof leak...
Once the two latches are off and safe...we can remove the header rail bracket, on the MK 2/2.5 NB there are 4 x small phillips head screws, on the MK 1 NA there are 6 X small phillips head screw and put them somewhere safe...
Next is the frontmost seal which is removed by way of 2 x small phillips head screws and then just pull it free from it's s/steel holding bracket whitch is held in place by 3 x small s/steel phillips head screws , remove them and pull the bracket free from the frame and put somewhere safe....
Next is the rearmost seal, pull the seal out of the frame until it come to a stop. It is held in place by 2 x plastic trim buttons. You will need your trim tool and need to get under the seal to the frame and lever them free the front first and then the back. Once free, you will need to remove the s/steel bracket from the frame by way of the 3 x small s/steel screws that hold it in place. Once removed, pull the s/steel bracket free from the frame and put somewhere safe....
Now to the roof edge protector ( if fitted) which is held in place by a 1 x small phillips head screw, remove the screw and bracket and put somewhere safe...
Or it may of been a phillips head screw at some point in its life....
****Go to section seven if it is rotten on how to get them out at the bottom of this guide.....*****
Once the screw is out put the edge protector safe with the other items from off that side...
Now repeat everything on the other side and store separate and safe , it will help to keep the items together on the side they have been removed from to make it easier to re-build the jigsaw again...
Then we need to remove the bits of the hold skin that is left...get your trim tool and widen the holding clamp open to release the skin, there is no need to over do the forcing open, it is a soft metal, leave this open for the time being....
Now it is time for the drill and drill bit...
Get your drill and bit, I am using a large cone step down drill bit to drill the heads off, now it does not matter where you start as long as everything is removed ...
So starting at the back ( roof upside down) drill out the pop rivet heads that are holding the skin to the frame, don't go mad they are only alloy pop rivets...
Now either pull the rivet out from the back with pliers or push them through from the front with your phillips driver...
You may need to drill down the rest of the rivet if it is still in there fast, be careful as the metal of the frame where the rivets holes are is not overly thick so don't go mad, we do not want bigger holes...
Now on to the two higher up near the main hinge, same again for removal....
Move to the other side and repeat...
Now to the tension cables...
Fold the frame or half close it to take the tension off the tension cables and get a large phillips head screw driver and remove the phillps head bolt from the frame that holds the tension spring...
Repeat on the other side while it is off tension...
Now feed the cable and spring through the frame...
Drill and bit back out again...
We need to now remove the tension cable fixing points from the header rail, now this is easier done with the frame the right way around, drill the pop rivets heads off as before....
If the are stuck fast from the swelling of the rivet ,than just give them another quick buzz with the drill again, you can also use the trim tool to help lever them free, please be careful as the header rail metal is thin....
If you are left with the rivet sitting proud and will not push through, then do as we did before and drill it down a bit more to the frame, please be careful as mentioned it is thin, so take your time, and then just push the dead rivet out..
Put the old cables safe, we will need to re-use the tension springs again...
If it is a Mk 2/2.5 NB frame ( MK 1 NA frame does not have these)there are two more screws that you may or may not be lucky with,as they rust very easy and no one puts them back in with a dab of grease...
Now there are a couple of ways we can remove these, 1) remove the material and spray with an freeing up oil and try and remove them with mole grips...2) cut a slot across the head and freeing up spray with a flat screw driver with a spanner head for leverage , back and forth until out, 3) go all Jeremy Clarkson on it and drill the head off, file flat and drill the remainder of the stud out and use a small self tapper on re-build, painting where you filed down...No 3 was the option for this frame as it had seen far better days, and gave me every challenge fitting a skin could give...
Change the drill bit for a 4 mm drill bit and drill out the stud if you go down this route...
And thats is ,all stripped....
Now is the time to do any kind of revamp, any surface rust can be rubbed down and repainted if wished and left to dry before the build back up.
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****THIS SECTION IS ONLY IF USING A MK2/2.5 ROOF FRAME****
Get your pliers and lift the spring out of the hole in the support frame and pull it to the inner area of the frame and push forward to release the other hook of the spring off the other section of the frame and then just remove the spring off the frame spike/lug....
This is not 100% needed to do, but is worth doing while it is all apart. The closing springs on the rear most support can over time lose thier tension for that section to spring back when dropping the roof. This is very simple to solve now by removing the springs off the frame and re-tensioning...
While we are at the stage of a clean frame having the frame the right way or upside down makes no difference for this...
Locate the rear support tension spring Only on the MK 2/2.5 NB frames( Mk 2.5 support tension springs were upgraded )....
Get your pliers and lift the spring out of the hole in the support frame and pull it to the inner area of the frame and push forward to release the other hook of the spring off the other section of the frame and then just remove the spring off the frame spike/lug....
Now get a pair of mole grips or similar and clamp down on the spring coil at the start of the longest hook ...
Now with your pliers or similar bend the longest hook towards the mole grips, we are bending the hook so it will put tension on the frame support closing better...
The two springs.... the one on the top is the one we have re-tensioned and the one on the bottom is un-tensioned....
Now it is a case of bending the other one the same and just re-fitting to the frame support, doing this will help when dropping the roof and the frame clsing up together better..
Lets get to part four.....
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15090
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK 1/ 2/2.5 fitting a new hood skin to a frame
PART FOUR :- RE-SKINNING THE FRAME
Just a foot note :- fitting a Vynil skin is best fitted in a warm area or day as it makes the material easier to work with....
Now this may look like the longest bit from the guide, it really is not. I have just tried to cover everything as much as i could so if you get stuck you can back track.
Once you have finished prepping the frame to your standard, rubbing down any surface rust, and repainting, etc etc. We can start to think about the re-skinning and build up of the jigsaw...
First we start with the new tension cables, these were supplied by Autolinkmx5 https://www.autolinkmx5.com/, unlike the OE ones that are plastic the securing blocks are alloy. Now just because it is me i like to give them another little whack where the cable is held in place, just for piece of mind....
Please be aware that the MK 1 NA and the MK 2/2.5 have different tension cables and springs ( aftermarket tension cables were supplied by Autolinkmx5 https://www.autolinkmx5.com/ for this guide)...
OE tension cables...
Mk 1 NA aftermarket tension cables and spring 63 cm...
https://www.autolinkmx5.com/soft-top-si ... -115-p.asp
Mk 1 NA tension spring....
MK 2/2.5 NB Aftermarket tension cables and spring 53 cm....
https://www.autolinkmx5.com/soft-top-te ... -400-p.asp
MK 2/2.5 NB tension spring....
Get a 4mm punch or grind the sharp end of a nail of the correct size and a hammer and just give them an extra whack, they are alloy so no need to go mad...
Once they're done , we can fit them to the frame. Get your pop rivets 2 x 6-8 mm head 4mm x 15 mm long( put this is dependant "IF" you have drilled the hole to big, then a thicker size rivet will be needed) and rivet gun of choice, ( what i will say before fitting these is make sure that the old pop rivet is not rattling about in the header rail now) put the frame correct way up half or fully open in you work area and pop rivet the new tension cables into place with the cables towards the outside of the Roadster...
Lay the new skin down where you are working and put the roof frame in the open position upside down on it. Please make sure there is protection down so the new skin does not get marked or damaged. I personally also stick some bubble wrap to the inside and outside of the glass window with masking tape as we move everything around fitting up and to the Roadster. Put the glass or zip out window to the back...
Get the frame so it is half closed/open and feed the rearmost head lining under the two rear support bars towards the front to meet the securing bar and connect the centre bar fixing strip by the Velcro strip leaving the plastic edge exposed. Leave a small gap from the head liner to the plastic trim edge roughly about 3mm or so....
****PLEASE NOTE THAT YOU WILL NOT NEED TO DO THIS ON A MK1 NA SKIN WITH A REAR PLASTIC ZIP OUT WINDOW******
On the MK 1 NA there is no head lining but the skin still needs to be secured to the fixing frames front and middle in the same way...
Now put the two bits over the centre bar and hook/feed in the plastic edge so it locks onto the edge of the metal holding strip all the way along. Once locked under we need to press the metal holding strip down to hold the skin down tight to the centre bar, once you have pressed it all the way along, you can use a rubber hammer to lightly tap the holding strip tight...
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On the Mk 1 NA there is no roof lining or extra webbing strap supports .... but the skin is fixed and secured in place by three roof supports to the strips of material and with a plastic edge bonded to the underneath of the roof skin. This is wrapped around and hooked with the plastic strip behind the metal holding strip in the same way has the Mk 2/2.5 NB above. It is tapped down in to place to hold the skin in place which needs to be done 3 times but this is for a Mk1 NA with a plastic rear zip out window. Nowadays there is also a conversion that can be done on the Mk 1 NA roof frame to be able to fit a MK 2/2.5 NB roof skin with a heated rear glass window by way of a webbing kit with elastic strips that are pop riveted into place to help support the extra weight, but more on that later down the guides...Personally i would just go for a Mk 2/2.5 frame , easier ,quicker, better seals and a better frame....
Mk 1 NA frame with the skin fitted as a reference points,( I will add some pics at a later date when fitting a MK 1 NA skin but not many have them, now preferring the HRW conversions )....
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With the the tensioin cables, we need to feed these through the side pocket, so a thin piece of solid wire will do with a small hook on the end or you can tape the cable to it. We are using a thin s/steel welding rod, but you get the idea, make sure the frame is half closed/open, and feed the rod from the back to the front...
So it pops out through the front hole....
Now we need to get the old tension cable and spring to remove the spring from the old cable and re-attach it to the new tension cable. Get your pliers and just twist to the side of the spring to form a gap on the bottom of the spring so you can unhook it off..
And then just re-attach it to the new tension cable....
Then it is a case of hooking or taping the spring onto the wire , (and close the gap you just created) you have threaded through and feeding it through the pocket from the front to the back...
Once through to the back make sure you guide it through all the eyelets
And through the guide eyelet of the frame...
Repeat on the other side....
Now with the tension still off we can fix the header skin holding bracket....
Peel the front of the skin back on itself and there should be guide holes already in place. Line up the skin and fixing bracket and screw one of the centre screws with the phillips driver through the bracket ( 4 x on a Mk 2/2.5 NB...6 x 0n a MK 1 NA , through the skin trim and into the white grommet. At this point do not screw it all the way home as we need to get the rest in, so do the same until they are all in place and then screw home nice and tight....
Now onto sercuring the tension cables and spring, make sure as you pull the cable it is through all the eyelets and pulling flush against the frame...
Now bring the frame together so it is nearly closed and pull the cable and tension spring up and sercure the spring back onto the frame with the large phillips screw driver and the phillips bolt heads, do both sides....
Now we need to pull the skin to the rear section pillar, leave the frame half closed/open . This can be hit or miss with a swear jar depending on the temperature for the vinyl to stretch and play nice, the quality of the roof skin is also a big factor and a mohair skin is more plyable so pull out ,up and back over the pillar...
Get your pop rivets 2 x 6-8 mm head 4mm x 12mm ( put this is dependent on if you have drilled the hole bigger in which case you will need a thicker rivet to fit) and rivet gun and pop rivet the skin to the pillar with the two rivets...
Get the edge trim bracket and place it in place, push and move it around until you find the holes through the skin to the frame , you may need to make new holes on the skin which is easily done with the phillips screw driver you will be using. Grab your pliers and squeeze the trim edge protector together and give it a slight curve inwards. When it is all lined up, get the phillps head screw and secure the bracket in the centre hole through the skin to the frame solid, holding it in place while the other trim button holes are lined up while doing so.....
Get another two rivets 2 x 6-8 mm head 4mm x 12mm ( put this is dependent on if you have drilled the hole bigger in which case you will need a thicker rivet to fit) and the rivet gun so we can secure the skin to where it covers the main frame hinge.....
Now do the same on the other side....
After you have done the other side, it is time to re-fit the s/steel bracket and seal into place... get your 3 x s/steel small phillips head screws and screw the frame down tight whilst pushing the frame to the outside of the roof frame, you will see on the frames that the holes are oval allowing for adjustment...
when re fitting the seal, remember I mentioned that you may need to make your own holes, double check they are free and lined up...
Get your seal and where the trim buttons are, guide and push the furthest one into the hole at the back, and then guide the front one into the front hole and push down, use the trim tool if needed to help guide, the trim buttons will not go all the way in by hand. Once in place and in the correct position you will need a small hammer and drift to knock them into place and flat. DON'T be a gorilla here they are only thin plastic holding trim buttons....
Now we just need to pop the seal into the s/steel bracket channels, hook the the seal under the outside edge of the s/steel bracket and push down on the inner section for it to pop into place and hold tight....
Do the same on the other side...
Moving to the frontmost seals, again grab the 3 x s/steel screws and frame and sercure tight whilst pushing the s/steel frame to the outside of the roof..
And then push the seal in back in place as described before with the 2 x screw fixing holes at the front....
Now re-fit the 2 x small phillips head screws that holds the front seal to the header frame....
Now do the same on the other side......
On this particular company's skin there is an extra piece of material which is there to pull the skins corner in tighter to give it a smoother finish. This goes behind the seal and across the screw hole of the closet one to the outside edge, you will need to pop something through so the screw can be screwed down tight again, and then it is just a case of trimming it with a utility knife....
Then it is just a case of re-fitting the header rail latches by way of the 3 x large phillips head bolts with a large phillips screw driver ...
And do the other side also....
And thats it you have re-skinned a roof frame, now it is time to re-fit it on to the Roadster, so onto part five.....
Just a foot note :- fitting a Vynil skin is best fitted in a warm area or day as it makes the material easier to work with....
Now this may look like the longest bit from the guide, it really is not. I have just tried to cover everything as much as i could so if you get stuck you can back track.
Once you have finished prepping the frame to your standard, rubbing down any surface rust, and repainting, etc etc. We can start to think about the re-skinning and build up of the jigsaw...
First we start with the new tension cables, these were supplied by Autolinkmx5 https://www.autolinkmx5.com/, unlike the OE ones that are plastic the securing blocks are alloy. Now just because it is me i like to give them another little whack where the cable is held in place, just for piece of mind....
Please be aware that the MK 1 NA and the MK 2/2.5 have different tension cables and springs ( aftermarket tension cables were supplied by Autolinkmx5 https://www.autolinkmx5.com/ for this guide)...
OE tension cables...
Mk 1 NA aftermarket tension cables and spring 63 cm...
https://www.autolinkmx5.com/soft-top-si ... -115-p.asp
Mk 1 NA tension spring....
MK 2/2.5 NB Aftermarket tension cables and spring 53 cm....
https://www.autolinkmx5.com/soft-top-te ... -400-p.asp
MK 2/2.5 NB tension spring....
Get a 4mm punch or grind the sharp end of a nail of the correct size and a hammer and just give them an extra whack, they are alloy so no need to go mad...
Once they're done , we can fit them to the frame. Get your pop rivets 2 x 6-8 mm head 4mm x 15 mm long( put this is dependant "IF" you have drilled the hole to big, then a thicker size rivet will be needed) and rivet gun of choice, ( what i will say before fitting these is make sure that the old pop rivet is not rattling about in the header rail now) put the frame correct way up half or fully open in you work area and pop rivet the new tension cables into place with the cables towards the outside of the Roadster...
Lay the new skin down where you are working and put the roof frame in the open position upside down on it. Please make sure there is protection down so the new skin does not get marked or damaged. I personally also stick some bubble wrap to the inside and outside of the glass window with masking tape as we move everything around fitting up and to the Roadster. Put the glass or zip out window to the back...
Get the frame so it is half closed/open and feed the rearmost head lining under the two rear support bars towards the front to meet the securing bar and connect the centre bar fixing strip by the Velcro strip leaving the plastic edge exposed. Leave a small gap from the head liner to the plastic trim edge roughly about 3mm or so....
****PLEASE NOTE THAT YOU WILL NOT NEED TO DO THIS ON A MK1 NA SKIN WITH A REAR PLASTIC ZIP OUT WINDOW******
On the MK 1 NA there is no head lining but the skin still needs to be secured to the fixing frames front and middle in the same way...
Now put the two bits over the centre bar and hook/feed in the plastic edge so it locks onto the edge of the metal holding strip all the way along. Once locked under we need to press the metal holding strip down to hold the skin down tight to the centre bar, once you have pressed it all the way along, you can use a rubber hammer to lightly tap the holding strip tight...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On the Mk 1 NA there is no roof lining or extra webbing strap supports .... but the skin is fixed and secured in place by three roof supports to the strips of material and with a plastic edge bonded to the underneath of the roof skin. This is wrapped around and hooked with the plastic strip behind the metal holding strip in the same way has the Mk 2/2.5 NB above. It is tapped down in to place to hold the skin in place which needs to be done 3 times but this is for a Mk1 NA with a plastic rear zip out window. Nowadays there is also a conversion that can be done on the Mk 1 NA roof frame to be able to fit a MK 2/2.5 NB roof skin with a heated rear glass window by way of a webbing kit with elastic strips that are pop riveted into place to help support the extra weight, but more on that later down the guides...Personally i would just go for a Mk 2/2.5 frame , easier ,quicker, better seals and a better frame....
Mk 1 NA frame with the skin fitted as a reference points,( I will add some pics at a later date when fitting a MK 1 NA skin but not many have them, now preferring the HRW conversions )....
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With the the tensioin cables, we need to feed these through the side pocket, so a thin piece of solid wire will do with a small hook on the end or you can tape the cable to it. We are using a thin s/steel welding rod, but you get the idea, make sure the frame is half closed/open, and feed the rod from the back to the front...
So it pops out through the front hole....
Now we need to get the old tension cable and spring to remove the spring from the old cable and re-attach it to the new tension cable. Get your pliers and just twist to the side of the spring to form a gap on the bottom of the spring so you can unhook it off..
And then just re-attach it to the new tension cable....
Then it is a case of hooking or taping the spring onto the wire , (and close the gap you just created) you have threaded through and feeding it through the pocket from the front to the back...
Once through to the back make sure you guide it through all the eyelets
And through the guide eyelet of the frame...
Repeat on the other side....
Now with the tension still off we can fix the header skin holding bracket....
Peel the front of the skin back on itself and there should be guide holes already in place. Line up the skin and fixing bracket and screw one of the centre screws with the phillips driver through the bracket ( 4 x on a Mk 2/2.5 NB...6 x 0n a MK 1 NA , through the skin trim and into the white grommet. At this point do not screw it all the way home as we need to get the rest in, so do the same until they are all in place and then screw home nice and tight....
Now onto sercuring the tension cables and spring, make sure as you pull the cable it is through all the eyelets and pulling flush against the frame...
Now bring the frame together so it is nearly closed and pull the cable and tension spring up and sercure the spring back onto the frame with the large phillips screw driver and the phillips bolt heads, do both sides....
Now we need to pull the skin to the rear section pillar, leave the frame half closed/open . This can be hit or miss with a swear jar depending on the temperature for the vinyl to stretch and play nice, the quality of the roof skin is also a big factor and a mohair skin is more plyable so pull out ,up and back over the pillar...
Get your pop rivets 2 x 6-8 mm head 4mm x 12mm ( put this is dependent on if you have drilled the hole bigger in which case you will need a thicker rivet to fit) and rivet gun and pop rivet the skin to the pillar with the two rivets...
Get the edge trim bracket and place it in place, push and move it around until you find the holes through the skin to the frame , you may need to make new holes on the skin which is easily done with the phillips screw driver you will be using. Grab your pliers and squeeze the trim edge protector together and give it a slight curve inwards. When it is all lined up, get the phillps head screw and secure the bracket in the centre hole through the skin to the frame solid, holding it in place while the other trim button holes are lined up while doing so.....
Get another two rivets 2 x 6-8 mm head 4mm x 12mm ( put this is dependent on if you have drilled the hole bigger in which case you will need a thicker rivet to fit) and the rivet gun so we can secure the skin to where it covers the main frame hinge.....
Now do the same on the other side....
After you have done the other side, it is time to re-fit the s/steel bracket and seal into place... get your 3 x s/steel small phillips head screws and screw the frame down tight whilst pushing the frame to the outside of the roof frame, you will see on the frames that the holes are oval allowing for adjustment...
when re fitting the seal, remember I mentioned that you may need to make your own holes, double check they are free and lined up...
Get your seal and where the trim buttons are, guide and push the furthest one into the hole at the back, and then guide the front one into the front hole and push down, use the trim tool if needed to help guide, the trim buttons will not go all the way in by hand. Once in place and in the correct position you will need a small hammer and drift to knock them into place and flat. DON'T be a gorilla here they are only thin plastic holding trim buttons....
Now we just need to pop the seal into the s/steel bracket channels, hook the the seal under the outside edge of the s/steel bracket and push down on the inner section for it to pop into place and hold tight....
Do the same on the other side...
Moving to the frontmost seals, again grab the 3 x s/steel screws and frame and sercure tight whilst pushing the s/steel frame to the outside of the roof..
And then push the seal in back in place as described before with the 2 x screw fixing holes at the front....
Now re-fit the 2 x small phillips head screws that holds the front seal to the header frame....
Now do the same on the other side......
On this particular company's skin there is an extra piece of material which is there to pull the skins corner in tighter to give it a smoother finish. This goes behind the seal and across the screw hole of the closet one to the outside edge, you will need to pop something through so the screw can be screwed down tight again, and then it is just a case of trimming it with a utility knife....
Then it is just a case of re-fitting the header rail latches by way of the 3 x large phillips head bolts with a large phillips screw driver ...
And do the other side also....
And thats it you have re-skinned a roof frame, now it is time to re-fit it on to the Roadster, so onto part five.....
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15090
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK 1/ 2/2.5 fitting a new hood skin to a frame
PART FIVE :- RE-FITTING EVERYTHING BACK TO THE ROADSTER>>>
*****Clicking on the image will enlarge them for better viewing*****
So she is all clean, drainage trays and tubes done, back deck wiped down including the rear deck belt line, rain rail cleaned and re-sealed if needed and back in place making sure that the rear of the rain rail is behind the belt line moulding. This is important otherwise the rain will run into the roadster and not the rain rail...
I recommend putting a soft sheet/bubble wrap etc on the back shelf to protect the rear glass window or plastic zip out window while we re-fit it..
So get the nice friendly person that you have conned into helping you carry it over to the roadster and drop into place, if it is a MK 2/2.5 NB glass window don't forget to support it while carrying, there are some guide studs on the body that the frame hooks on to ...
Next we need to re- bolt up the main frame hinge to the body with the 6 x 12mm head bolts (3 each side) with the small extension and 12 mm socket, turn them in so the are finger tight first on both sides, a bit of copper grease will help in the long run...
Once they are all in place, get your ratchet for the extension and 12 mm socket and get your helper to push the frame forward and tighten the bolts up tight to the body, do both sides...
Now we need to pull the roof up, this is where you will need your helper to hold the frame up but off tension so you can get inside and start to hook the edge of the new skin onto the rear studs. You will need to open the rain rail for this. As you work your way along ensure the back of the rain rail stays in place while you hook the skin on and put the front of the rain rail back on the stud. So we will be sandwiching in the skin inbetween the rain rail and all hooked onto the bolt down studs ready for the support bars. There is no need to pop rivet the skin to the rain rail, as that is just a production line thing...
MK 2/2.5 NB only....(unless you are fitting a Mk2/2.5 skin and hood to a Mk1 then the process is the same as fitting to a Mk 2/2.5) Now push the webbing window support strap onto the correct studs on both sides. Make sure they go over the support frame and are not twisted...
Now get the main centre rear support bar and push it into place on the studs and start to add the 10 mm nuts by hand at first just to hold everything in place...
Now tighten the centre 10 mm with the 1/4 drive ratchet and extensions and 10 mm socket, then tigthen down on either side of it and so on until the last ones..
Then re-fit the side support bars ,push them on and into place. Add the 10 mm nuts just finger tight so both are in place on either side. Make sure that webbing support is still on and in the correct place before adding the support bars. Once in place fix up tight from the innermost back one ,middle then front through the access hole at the door pillor, do both sides...
Get your side pillar trim, pull both parts of the seat belt webbing up and out....
Do not forget to also lift the rectangle seat belt trim with the seat belt webbing. The outermost webbing comes around and to the front of the side trim. The innermost is feed through the trims cut outs of the rectangle cut out section. You then need to feed it all into place. You will need to spread the cut outs apart then feed it past the seat belt top hanger point, as you do this there are two locating pegs on the back of the trim which need to be guided into place. Once in place the metal clips (x2) will just need a gentle tap back into the body tub. Click the rectangle seat belt trim back into place also...
Then it is all a case of re-fitting everything back as it was removed....
Once everything is back in trim, carpet and seats, you have fitted a new roof/skin, now it is time to close it to, now onto part six....
*****Clicking on the image will enlarge them for better viewing*****
So she is all clean, drainage trays and tubes done, back deck wiped down including the rear deck belt line, rain rail cleaned and re-sealed if needed and back in place making sure that the rear of the rain rail is behind the belt line moulding. This is important otherwise the rain will run into the roadster and not the rain rail...
I recommend putting a soft sheet/bubble wrap etc on the back shelf to protect the rear glass window or plastic zip out window while we re-fit it..
So get the nice friendly person that you have conned into helping you carry it over to the roadster and drop into place, if it is a MK 2/2.5 NB glass window don't forget to support it while carrying, there are some guide studs on the body that the frame hooks on to ...
Next we need to re- bolt up the main frame hinge to the body with the 6 x 12mm head bolts (3 each side) with the small extension and 12 mm socket, turn them in so the are finger tight first on both sides, a bit of copper grease will help in the long run...
Once they are all in place, get your ratchet for the extension and 12 mm socket and get your helper to push the frame forward and tighten the bolts up tight to the body, do both sides...
Now we need to pull the roof up, this is where you will need your helper to hold the frame up but off tension so you can get inside and start to hook the edge of the new skin onto the rear studs. You will need to open the rain rail for this. As you work your way along ensure the back of the rain rail stays in place while you hook the skin on and put the front of the rain rail back on the stud. So we will be sandwiching in the skin inbetween the rain rail and all hooked onto the bolt down studs ready for the support bars. There is no need to pop rivet the skin to the rain rail, as that is just a production line thing...
MK 2/2.5 NB only....(unless you are fitting a Mk2/2.5 skin and hood to a Mk1 then the process is the same as fitting to a Mk 2/2.5) Now push the webbing window support strap onto the correct studs on both sides. Make sure they go over the support frame and are not twisted...
Now get the main centre rear support bar and push it into place on the studs and start to add the 10 mm nuts by hand at first just to hold everything in place...
Now tighten the centre 10 mm with the 1/4 drive ratchet and extensions and 10 mm socket, then tigthen down on either side of it and so on until the last ones..
Then re-fit the side support bars ,push them on and into place. Add the 10 mm nuts just finger tight so both are in place on either side. Make sure that webbing support is still on and in the correct place before adding the support bars. Once in place fix up tight from the innermost back one ,middle then front through the access hole at the door pillor, do both sides...
Get your side pillar trim, pull both parts of the seat belt webbing up and out....
Do not forget to also lift the rectangle seat belt trim with the seat belt webbing. The outermost webbing comes around and to the front of the side trim. The innermost is feed through the trims cut outs of the rectangle cut out section. You then need to feed it all into place. You will need to spread the cut outs apart then feed it past the seat belt top hanger point, as you do this there are two locating pegs on the back of the trim which need to be guided into place. Once in place the metal clips (x2) will just need a gentle tap back into the body tub. Click the rectangle seat belt trim back into place also...
Then it is all a case of re-fitting everything back as it was removed....
Once everything is back in trim, carpet and seats, you have fitted a new roof/skin, now it is time to close it to, now onto part six....
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15090
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK 1/ 2/2.5 fitting a new hood skin to a frame
PART SIX:- CLOSING THE NEW SKIN FOR THE FIRST TIME FROM NEWLY FITTED
Now for the cursing ....it will make things a lot easier if the material is warm with vinyl , mohair will be easier even if cold...
So with the hood in the stowed position, open up the header rail latches and you will see a plastic cover, flick them open on both latches...
*****PLEASE NOTE :- the latches in the guide pics have the plastic guide nipple broken/missing, we recommend that you fit new ones as they are important to how the header rail/frame locks in place to make sure it does not leak( SEE THE BOTTOM OF THIS SECTION)******
You will notice a long 10 mm nut...
Screw the nut so it extends the latches hook out to their furthest point on both sides...
Once adjusted out, pull up the roof ready for closing, now depending on the temp you are working in an extra pair of helpful hands will be needed for the cursing and swearing. With one person on the inside pushing and ready to latch down and one person on the outside pushing down and forward, work on getting one side latched down first....
Once you have one side latched down, latch down the other side. We now need to walk it in until the latches are fully adjusted and locked down tight. We do this by, once you have latched down the last one, go the the first one you did and un-latch, flick the plastic cover back out and adjust the 10 mm long nut back in to around half way and re latch it back down again. Go to the other side and do the same, then back again to the first one and adjust all the way in and latch down again and the same on the other side......
And thats it, you have fitted a new roof skin to your pride and joy. Depending on the temp we advise at least 3 - 6 weeks before un-latching and dropping the roof as the materiel needs to find its memory fix and stretch into position,getting hot and cold etc. This summer has been an exception and 3 weeks has done the trick. We do not advise dropping the vinyl roof in winter anyway as the vinyl will be hard and brittle and may of course become damaged.....
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There is another way to close these if you are on your on your own...
Small luggage ratchet strap..
Some cushioning..
and a hook..
First lift the bonnet then put the hook ( not too big as we do not want to damage the new skin) on the header rail. You can also remove the plastic lifting handle and hook into its' recess, feed the ratchet straps webbing through the hook and over the windscreen surround, down the screen and under the bonnet to the engine bay, feed the webbing through the engines rear lifting eye/hook and then back to the ratchet. Put some protection where needed, making sure there is something under the ratchet to protect the glass just in case, and then just ratchet up until the cap closes up, extend the latch adjusters until fully out .
Once it is close enough with a small gap, latch down one of the latches. Once you have one latched and locked remove the ratchet and all the bits. When it is out of the way, latch down the other latch and walk it in as explain earlier in this guide.
There is something very satisfying about fitting a new skin and sorting all the areas you will not see again for many years, when you step back and see what you have done and how much better the roadster looks after the hard work, passion and dedication to detail. When others ask where you had it fitted you can say with a pride,,," I did it"....
New Plastic guide nipple covers....
Hope all this helps, as is the norm , if you are unsure and have any questions please ask, it's what we are here for..
Drive safe
M-m
Now for the cursing ....it will make things a lot easier if the material is warm with vinyl , mohair will be easier even if cold...
So with the hood in the stowed position, open up the header rail latches and you will see a plastic cover, flick them open on both latches...
*****PLEASE NOTE :- the latches in the guide pics have the plastic guide nipple broken/missing, we recommend that you fit new ones as they are important to how the header rail/frame locks in place to make sure it does not leak( SEE THE BOTTOM OF THIS SECTION)******
You will notice a long 10 mm nut...
Screw the nut so it extends the latches hook out to their furthest point on both sides...
Once adjusted out, pull up the roof ready for closing, now depending on the temp you are working in an extra pair of helpful hands will be needed for the cursing and swearing. With one person on the inside pushing and ready to latch down and one person on the outside pushing down and forward, work on getting one side latched down first....
Once you have one side latched down, latch down the other side. We now need to walk it in until the latches are fully adjusted and locked down tight. We do this by, once you have latched down the last one, go the the first one you did and un-latch, flick the plastic cover back out and adjust the 10 mm long nut back in to around half way and re latch it back down again. Go to the other side and do the same, then back again to the first one and adjust all the way in and latch down again and the same on the other side......
And thats it, you have fitted a new roof skin to your pride and joy. Depending on the temp we advise at least 3 - 6 weeks before un-latching and dropping the roof as the materiel needs to find its memory fix and stretch into position,getting hot and cold etc. This summer has been an exception and 3 weeks has done the trick. We do not advise dropping the vinyl roof in winter anyway as the vinyl will be hard and brittle and may of course become damaged.....
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There is another way to close these if you are on your on your own...
Small luggage ratchet strap..
Some cushioning..
and a hook..
First lift the bonnet then put the hook ( not too big as we do not want to damage the new skin) on the header rail. You can also remove the plastic lifting handle and hook into its' recess, feed the ratchet straps webbing through the hook and over the windscreen surround, down the screen and under the bonnet to the engine bay, feed the webbing through the engines rear lifting eye/hook and then back to the ratchet. Put some protection where needed, making sure there is something under the ratchet to protect the glass just in case, and then just ratchet up until the cap closes up, extend the latch adjusters until fully out .
Once it is close enough with a small gap, latch down one of the latches. Once you have one latched and locked remove the ratchet and all the bits. When it is out of the way, latch down the other latch and walk it in as explain earlier in this guide.
There is something very satisfying about fitting a new skin and sorting all the areas you will not see again for many years, when you step back and see what you have done and how much better the roadster looks after the hard work, passion and dedication to detail. When others ask where you had it fitted you can say with a pride,,," I did it"....
New Plastic guide nipple covers....
Hope all this helps, as is the norm , if you are unsure and have any questions please ask, it's what we are here for..
Drive safe
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15090
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK 1/ 2/2.5 fitting a new hood skin to a frame( FULL WALK THROUGH GUIDE )
PART SEVEN :- REMOVING THE RUSTED PILLAR TRIM SCREW>>>
OK so we have hit this rusty blob of nothing....
This will show you how to get it out....
You will need ..
a can of freeing up oil
a selection of mole grips. small pointed, medium pointed and standard medium set
and new screws
As the space is tight to the head of the screw to try and get a dremmel in to cut a slot and try to turn it out with a screw driver or axe saw blade and slowly slowly cut a slot in for the same reason, I have not got time for that, so time for attack and make short work of the problem..
So spray the head and underneath with the freeing up oil...
Bend the frame out slightly to give you some room and lock the standard medium set underneath on the screw and go back a forth until the rust seal breaks free and start to turn it out as much as you can from the back, lock the mole grips off and on a turn at a time...
Once you have gotten as far as you can from underneath, now get the long nose on the head had screw it all the way out( sorry some pics are blured, but you get the idea)....
De-rust, add paint, and don't forget to bend the frame back into shape.
M-m
OK so we have hit this rusty blob of nothing....
This will show you how to get it out....
You will need ..
a can of freeing up oil
a selection of mole grips. small pointed, medium pointed and standard medium set
and new screws
As the space is tight to the head of the screw to try and get a dremmel in to cut a slot and try to turn it out with a screw driver or axe saw blade and slowly slowly cut a slot in for the same reason, I have not got time for that, so time for attack and make short work of the problem..
So spray the head and underneath with the freeing up oil...
Bend the frame out slightly to give you some room and lock the standard medium set underneath on the screw and go back a forth until the rust seal breaks free and start to turn it out as much as you can from the back, lock the mole grips off and on a turn at a time...
Once you have gotten as far as you can from underneath, now get the long nose on the head had screw it all the way out( sorry some pics are blured, but you get the idea)....
De-rust, add paint, and don't forget to bend the frame back into shape.
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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