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How to make a short intake for a MK 2/2.5...

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How to make a short intake for a MK 2/2.5...

Postby Mazda Mender » Mon Nov 06, 2023 7:47 am

I often see this modification done badly when the reality is that its a very simple thing to make. I am also looking into this for the MK 1's which is a little more involved but not rocket science to do.

There is a marked benefit to having it this way and is a far better neater and cheap set up than the stupidly over priced Typhoon system by K & N which a lot of people are crazy enough to buy. Even second hand they are daft money for basically an alloy tube with a filter on the end.

Now the good thing about this being made is that you can fully custom with whichever filter shape, make or colour including the air intake hose. Personally I prefer the HKS mushroom filters as it gives a neat cleaner look but as you will see there are a number of options. For the guide we are using an oval K & N cone filter, simply because the owner of this car wanted that one fitting. So on to some parts needed:

References to what it will look like using different make filters and combos....

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1 x cone filter of chose
1 x 90 % bend air intake reducer hose( colour of chose) 70 mm x 65 mm
4 x 80-100 jubilee clips
1 x roll of black electrical tape
1 x selection of cable ties ( black)
1 x sikaflex or automotive sealant
1 x masking tape
1 x 8 mm inner/ 13mm outer of rubber/silicone hose( breather from the rocker cover) 2 meters long
1 x 8 mm inner / 12mm outer of rubber/silicone hose over flow hose from the rad to the expansion bottle) 1 meter long
1 x 10 mm barb
2 or 4 x jubilee clips 60-80mm

Tools needed....
1 x pointed pliers
1 x phillips driver or 10mm socket/1/4 ratchet
1 x drill
1 x step down drill bit or similar
1 x pair of snips
1 x utility knife
1 x marker pen
1 x 1/4 ratchet, extension,10 mm socket
1 x 3/8 ratchet, extension, 12mm & 14mm sockets

Pop the bonnet and prop it open safe and solid....

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Unplug the AFM,air sensor( release the loom lugs with the pointed pliers) and power steering plug(pointed pliers) and peel back the loom to the drivers side...

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Release the breather hose from the intake from the rocker cover.....

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Get your phillips driver or 1/4 drive ratchet, extension, 10mm socket and loosen the trunking clips on the AFM and throttle body...

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And remove the intake trunking....

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Get your ratchet,extension and 10mm socket and remove the 10mm head bolt that holds the air box snorkel and remove it....

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Now get your ratchet ,extension and 12mm socket and remove the 12mm head nut at the front of the box and the 12mm head bolt hidden deep down at the back of the box, remove them box and pull the air box from out of the inner wing...

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Now get your ratchet and 10mm socket and remove the 2 x 10mm head bolts that hold the AFM to the air box and pull them apart, we need to reuse the AFM, the air box is no longer needed.

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Now using a utility knife nice and gently, we need to peel back and seperate the air box sensor wires and plugs from with in the cable/loom trunking. There is a split in the trunking in which you can cut the tape along to open it up to pull the section out thats needs to be used on the other side...

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Now offer up your bend to see how much will need removing on the throttle body side and on the filter side, depending on the filter and set up, your AFM will need to be in the filter to help gauging fitment. Never over cut: it is easier to adjust with cutting more off than adding. Mark the cut all the way around with a marker pen, check and double check before cutting with whatever you find best; a very sharp utility knife is the choice of many (we use a very thin cutting disk in a grinder).

Once you are happy with all the fitment you need to mark where the air sensor is going to go. We also use the original rubber grommet it sits in from the OE air box. With the rocker cover breather hose barb, we fit this to the 90 degree bend, either with rubber washers to seal and standard washers and a nut to tighten up ,or with some sikaflex. Don't use sealant as its not strong enough. After a test fit, remove it all back off the Roadster for the drilling, fixing or bonding but please note:- if bonding then it will need to be left overnight to cure before final fitting up..

So on the table you can see that we have cut the 90 degree hose to the length we are happy with and drilled the hole for the air sensor on the back of the air filter and cut the hole for the barb for the rocker cover breather tube. We found that a step down drill bit works best. Go nice and slow, don't force as it will rip the hose to bits. Slow and steady is the way.

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And all lightly put together ready for fitment....

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Before final fitment we recommend that you change the expansion tank hose so it does not catch or rub on the filter. You will need 8 mm inner hose at 1 meter long or to your own spec. You will need to remove the drivers side radiator holding bracket on the top with a ratchet, extension and a 14mm socket. Then fit it to the expansion tank first and run in the way you want and to the rad inlet. Cut the hose down when happy and push on into place and bolt the retaining rad bracket back into place and you can start to fit everything back up. See pic below on the new hose reroute...

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Now we can start to add the AFM and the filter, air sensor, and twist and move into the best position before the final tightening up of all the jubilee clips and plugging everything back in to finalize the wiring route, re taping back up and tidying up/securing, and cable ties where needed(white was used in the guide as a reference
to be seen) adding the new breather hose 8 mm inner and 2 meters long and cut to the length you are happy with...

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And thats it all done and in working. Start her up to make sure everything is tight, rev her just for the hell of it...testing ;0), stand back and say " I did that"

As always any questions or if there is something that is not clear, please ask,we would rather you ask than struggle.
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.

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Re: How to make a short intake for a MK 2/2.5...

Postby MarkieMark » Mon Mar 18, 2024 7:30 pm

I know it's a controversial topic but is there any Dyno data to see how it changes the performance? From my own research the Intake Resonator is smart idea to keep because it prevents lack of torque in mid-range by preventing counter intake / return pressure waves at each stroke of the valves closing.
I've considered keeping the cross-over tube, but adding a 45 degree elbow, putting the pod filter and placing this where the stock intake snorkel is positioned. Then add a fully enclosed heat shield (actually available pre-made from Moss Europe taken from the Cobalt kit. It's in the "accessories" section of intake parts).
This mod though gets thumbs up...I imagine whatever you do it depends on what you want...

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